Need Help- 2013 A5 Trunk acc. wire assistance
#1
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Need Help- 2013 A5 Trunk acc. wire assistance
Installing sub/amp and am all done, except locating an Amp remote switch in the trunk (or boot for you UK blokes). I have poked all around and everything is always ON, or only 6V.
Any help would be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
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Seems as this is precious information that nobody likes to share.
Here you go.
2013 A5 Post facelift Trunk/boot accessory wire.
White wire (BLK/WHT twisted pair).
First picture:
I used a red arrow (hard to see in picture) to show where to splice in for the Amp remote (accessory wire). Left side of trunk compartment when facing trunk opening.
Second picture:
I also show the color code for the OEM rear sub color wires. The picture shows the plug that connects to the Sub.
Brown is +
Yellow is -
I tapped into these for my "Boss" frequency converter ($15) Amazon. I tapped into the rear sub speaker (Ended up unplugging OEM Sub).
Adding the Sub/Amp turned my concert Audio (Which is actually pretty good), into a full performing system.
I normally buy the higher priced frequency converters, but figured I would give this one a chance first. At $15 didnt have alot to lose. Turns out it works great. There is no bass role off at high volume and I tuned the Kenwood amp to have just the right amount of bass for all music types.
The Amp gain, allows for the OEM radio bass set almost zero. This way the rest of the stock speakers wont distort when volume is cranked.
I am very happy with the results. Hopefully this wiring assistance will help anyone else in need.
Here you go.
2013 A5 Post facelift Trunk/boot accessory wire.
White wire (BLK/WHT twisted pair).
First picture:
I used a red arrow (hard to see in picture) to show where to splice in for the Amp remote (accessory wire). Left side of trunk compartment when facing trunk opening.
Second picture:
I also show the color code for the OEM rear sub color wires. The picture shows the plug that connects to the Sub.
Brown is +
Yellow is -
I tapped into these for my "Boss" frequency converter ($15) Amazon. I tapped into the rear sub speaker (Ended up unplugging OEM Sub).
Adding the Sub/Amp turned my concert Audio (Which is actually pretty good), into a full performing system.
I normally buy the higher priced frequency converters, but figured I would give this one a chance first. At $15 didnt have alot to lose. Turns out it works great. There is no bass role off at high volume and I tuned the Kenwood amp to have just the right amount of bass for all music types.
The Amp gain, allows for the OEM radio bass set almost zero. This way the rest of the stock speakers wont distort when volume is cranked.
I am very happy with the results. Hopefully this wiring assistance will help anyone else in need.
Last edited by myowdeeA5; 06-08-2014 at 02:24 PM.
#3
Excellent info... one question: Is the amp accessory wire ignition switched or is it when the stereo is turned on and off? The reason I ask is that I have an A4 and I have been looking everywhere to find a 12v switch supply that toggles with the stereo being turned on and off (as the stereo can be turned on/off, even when the keys/fob are not in the ignition).
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
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It turns on when you unlock the doors, open the trunk lid, or put keyfab in ignition.
These cars turn "On" or come "alive" when any activity happens. If no further activity occurs, they turn back "off" after 1 minute.
The WHT wire I show from the twisted pair turns "ON" with any activity, but then turns off after 1 minute unless further activity happens (like turning car over).
You could find an acc wire that actuates with the stereo, but it is going to be buried behind the dash. I needed one in the trunk for the amp.
My 7 Series was acted the same way. That car was a fiber-optic nightmare.
These cars turn "On" or come "alive" when any activity happens. If no further activity occurs, they turn back "off" after 1 minute.
The WHT wire I show from the twisted pair turns "ON" with any activity, but then turns off after 1 minute unless further activity happens (like turning car over).
You could find an acc wire that actuates with the stereo, but it is going to be buried behind the dash. I needed one in the trunk for the amp.
My 7 Series was acted the same way. That car was a fiber-optic nightmare.
#5
Thanks for the update. My wife is out in the car at the moment but I'm gonna check this WHITE cable out.
I did check all(?) cables behind front dash (two units: CD changer and MMI main module) with no luck. As you say, it is all CAN-BUS based and each device has optical cables going in and out of them.
Just for the record, this is my overall plan:
Add a video module into the front of the car (behind the MMI 2G main module) behind the centre dash board. This needs ACC 12+ (but needs to be live even without key in ignition). This module will allow me to display another video source through the MMI front screen.
From this unit, I run a video cable to the back of the car where I have a mini android based HDMI dongle. This allows Airplay mirroring, so I can basically mirror my iPhone/ipad to the front screen without any wires (audio and video).
The HDMI dongle goes into a converter so I get Audio L/R and Video. I also have a mini TP-Link router to create a wifi network in the car (so my iPhone etc can connect to the android dongle). Don't need internet just a wifi network connecting the two devices.
I'm gonna run a relay/fused of this switched cable (if it ticks all the boxes for me!) to feed power to the HDMI Android dongle, router, video module and signal converter.
...all sounds complicated but its been in planning for months and didn't realise a switched power source would give me so much grief!
I'll report back if this cable does the trick - I'm sure my mod could be done in an A5 too.
Thanks.
P.S. I'm getting the audio feed via the hidden EXTERNAL-AUX option that I have enabled via VAG lead. Just needed to stick a couple of connections into the amp in the boot to get the sound out... was amazed it worked!
I did check all(?) cables behind front dash (two units: CD changer and MMI main module) with no luck. As you say, it is all CAN-BUS based and each device has optical cables going in and out of them.
Just for the record, this is my overall plan:
Add a video module into the front of the car (behind the MMI 2G main module) behind the centre dash board. This needs ACC 12+ (but needs to be live even without key in ignition). This module will allow me to display another video source through the MMI front screen.
From this unit, I run a video cable to the back of the car where I have a mini android based HDMI dongle. This allows Airplay mirroring, so I can basically mirror my iPhone/ipad to the front screen without any wires (audio and video).
The HDMI dongle goes into a converter so I get Audio L/R and Video. I also have a mini TP-Link router to create a wifi network in the car (so my iPhone etc can connect to the android dongle). Don't need internet just a wifi network connecting the two devices.
I'm gonna run a relay/fused of this switched cable (if it ticks all the boxes for me!) to feed power to the HDMI Android dongle, router, video module and signal converter.
...all sounds complicated but its been in planning for months and didn't realise a switched power source would give me so much grief!
I'll report back if this cable does the trick - I'm sure my mod could be done in an A5 too.
Thanks.
P.S. I'm getting the audio feed via the hidden EXTERNAL-AUX option that I have enabled via VAG lead. Just needed to stick a couple of connections into the amp in the boot to get the sound out... was amazed it worked!
#6
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It is not clear what your goal is. Are you targetting a rear DVD monitor in the car? Or front/rear of car video?
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#10
Hi Guys
very new to the forum, been reading countless "write ups" about installing a sub and amp, but no one has covered where to connect the remote wire in any detail..... sounds like the holy grail to making it work!
so thanks for actually pointing out where the wire is! only question is i have a 2009, any chance that the wire will be in the same place as the facelift version?
i would have checked myself but the car is at the stealers for a gearbox oil change
Thanks for the clear write up and thanks in advance with the answer
very new to the forum, been reading countless "write ups" about installing a sub and amp, but no one has covered where to connect the remote wire in any detail..... sounds like the holy grail to making it work!
so thanks for actually pointing out where the wire is! only question is i have a 2009, any chance that the wire will be in the same place as the facelift version?
i would have checked myself but the car is at the stealers for a gearbox oil change
Thanks for the clear write up and thanks in advance with the answer