Replacing Air Compressor
06-03-2011, 04:01 PM
#21
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BTW...If you do happen to determine that the air distribution valve body (a.k.a. the G291 pressure sensor, p/n 4F0616013) is defective, I have a brand new one for sale at $250 (~ 60% off the dealer's list price).
Last edited by Mr. Timewise; 06-03-2011 at 08:52 PM.
06-03-2011, 04:12 PM
#22
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Also, read this...
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...16&postcount=2
The comment about turning the wheels suggests to me that stress on the suspension might aggravate a leakage problem at the top of the shock/air spring tower.
It was in the location mentioned by the poster which was leaking in my situation (as mentioned in a previous post of mine).
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...16&postcount=2
The comment about turning the wheels suggests to me that stress on the suspension might aggravate a leakage problem at the top of the shock/air spring tower.
It was in the location mentioned by the poster which was leaking in my situation (as mentioned in a previous post of mine).
06-03-2011, 06:11 PM
#23
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You MUST support the vehicle securely. If I were going to do this on my back, I'd back onto some car ramps. Otherwise, I'd use FOUR jack stands.
Wear safety goggles or a clear face mask. You'll get dirt in your eyes otherwise. Might be good to spray the underneath at a car wash first.
08-25-2012, 10:35 AM
#24
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I have replaced all leaking airbags with arnott's gen 1 airbags but my compressor still runs quite frequently even though I am not losing ride height. I am purchasing the Wabco replacement pump from Arnott but cannot find any instructions anywhere on how to replace it. Obviously I would rather do this myself instead of taking it to the dealer. How hard would this be? Is there any guides out there?
From the thread I read it seems it is required to lift all 4 wheels off the ground (which I don't have the capability to do) and that the air suspension system needs to get calibrated after the replacement (which i don't have the capability to do either). Hope you can confirm either way. Thanks!
08-25-2012, 12:53 PM
#25
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Pretty sure you can't raise the car to Level IV and expect it to stay there when you disconnect from the compressor.
Again, I'd back onto car ramps or get a couple sets of jack stands. In the latter case, you can put it in jack mode and raise each corner individually. I used to do this with earlier Audis (no air suspension) before I got my hoist. I'd jack up each side of the front and then do the back.
Again, I'd back onto car ramps or get a couple sets of jack stands. In the latter case, you can put it in jack mode and raise each corner individually. I used to do this with earlier Audis (no air suspension) before I got my hoist. I'd jack up each side of the front and then do the back.
08-27-2012, 08:06 AM
#26
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Raise the car to the highest level, then put jack stands in the rear. You don't need to worry about the front dropping.
You should have enough room to access the old air pump when lying on your back. But do expect to get dirt in your face as you work. Wear eye protection.
You might find some of the bolts are rusted tight. Use lots of rust penetrant before you snap off a bolt. And use anti-seize when reinstalling everything.
After the new compressor is installed, you do not need to do any re-calibration. Installing the compressor does not change the ride height calibration...it's just an air pump.
Oh, yeah...take extra care when removing the pump's support bolts. There are several piece of rubber, washers and springs that must be oriented in the same order during replacement. The washers have a tendency to roll away under the car as things drop.
You should have enough room to access the old air pump when lying on your back. But do expect to get dirt in your face as you work. Wear eye protection.
You might find some of the bolts are rusted tight. Use lots of rust penetrant before you snap off a bolt. And use anti-seize when reinstalling everything.
After the new compressor is installed, you do not need to do any re-calibration. Installing the compressor does not change the ride height calibration...it's just an air pump.
Oh, yeah...take extra care when removing the pump's support bolts. There are several piece of rubber, washers and springs that must be oriented in the same order during replacement. The washers have a tendency to roll away under the car as things drop.
Last edited by Mr. Timewise; 08-27-2012 at 08:09 AM.
11-11-2014, 04:34 PM
#27
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Raise the car to the highest level, then put jack stands in the rear. You don't need to worry about the front dropping.
You should have enough room to access the old air pump when lying on your back. But do expect to get dirt in your face as you work. Wear eye protection.
You might find some of the bolts are rusted tight. Use lots of rust penetrant before you snap off a bolt. And use anti-seize when reinstalling everything.
After the new compressor is installed, you do not need to do any re-calibration. Installing the compressor does not change the ride height calibration...it's just an air pump.
Oh, yeah...take extra care when removing the pump's support bolts. There are several piece of rubber, washers and springs that must be oriented in the same order during replacement. The washers have a tendency to roll away under the car as things drop.
You should have enough room to access the old air pump when lying on your back. But do expect to get dirt in your face as you work. Wear eye protection.
You might find some of the bolts are rusted tight. Use lots of rust penetrant before you snap off a bolt. And use anti-seize when reinstalling everything.
After the new compressor is installed, you do not need to do any re-calibration. Installing the compressor does not change the ride height calibration...it's just an air pump.
Oh, yeah...take extra care when removing the pump's support bolts. There are several piece of rubber, washers and springs that must be oriented in the same order during replacement. The washers have a tendency to roll away under the car as things drop.
hose and electric disconnected.
2 of 3 mounting bolts and springs 'fell out'
BUT the last mounting bolt is stuck.
got the nut off
but the washer and spring are stuck in there tight.
lots of wd-40
nothing.
I can turn the bolt with my fingers.
washer and spring turn too with bolt.
can't punch the bolt up and out.
dont know what to do ... ? help !
11-13-2014, 03:44 AM
#28
AudiWorld Member
can you hold the large aluminium top hat diameter with grips and try to rotate it, it will have corroded onto the bolt shaft, any movement may free its grip, sounds easy!! not so easy in practise
regards
Andy
regards
Andy
11-13-2014, 05:22 AM
#29
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didnt budge at all. not even a bit.
either I'm missing something other than the nut being removed
but we all suspect the bolt has expanded and frozen solid inside the tophat.
going to cut the bolt head and replace bolt and top hat.
gotta get this compressor on bench in anticipation of your refurbish kit.
sa
11-13-2014, 05:55 AM
#30
AudiWorld Member
I know this is a little late now but you can rebuild the compressor while it's still mounted to the car. I pulled mine to clean it up but several people have done the rebuild with out pulling the compressor.