RMcQ procedure - THE ALLROAD OIL CHANGE - detailed instructions and many pics
To redeem myself for recent non-value posts and to make up with my friends allroadguy and Neb, I took some time to document my Thanksgiving weekend oil change. There seems to be some interest on the board since the dealer interval of 10K miles is too long. I perform an in between oil change to reduce mine to a 5K mile interval.
The allroad has the most involved oil change procedure of any vehicle I have ever done due to the belly pan. So to give encouragement or direction to someone who hasn't tried it yet, here is THE ALLROAD OIL CHANGE...
TOOLS REQUIRED(some substituions are obviously possible. This is just what I used.)
For belly pan:
- Standard screw driver
- Stubby standard screw driver
- 8mm allen driver, 3/8" drive
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension
- T30 Torx driver
For everything else:
- Ramps (not pictured above, see below)
- Oil drain collection pan (not pictured)
- Filter wrench or strap wrench
- 19mm box wrench
- Shop towels
- Appropriate storage/transport container for used oil (not picured)
MY PROCEDURE(again, some variations are possible. This is not necessarily the perfect way - its just my way. Constructive feedback encouraged.)
1. Prepare Vehicle
Warm the engine to suspend contaminants and to encourage a thorough drain. Raise the vehicle to level 4 and and park the car on ramps. FWIW - I have Rhino Ramps that are great because they are plastic and can be stored outside with no ill effects.
2. Remove Belly Pan
For those that have not crawled under their car, this is what the belly pan looks like in situ. Unfortunately I did not capture all the fasteners in this photo, but it gives you an idea. There are actually two (2) panels that make up the overall belly pan system. For an oil change it is not necessary to drop the rear one. Once all the fasteners are out of the front one, you can tilt it down a bit and slide it rearward to get it out. Leave the other panel in place. You can see the seam that delineates the two panels just behind the 3 indicated quick lock screws at the bottom of this photo.
Shot of 1st and 2nd pan overlap, from the side:
The three (3) Torx fasteners are all the way at the front, attaching the belly pan to the lower front bumper.
The T30 Torx fastener:
The Allen bolts are just a little further back. They are the most substantial fastener in the belly pan, though there are only two (2) of them.
The six (6) quick lock screws are all around the perimeter. They are all vertically into the belly pan. They require a simple ¼ turn to remove.
What you can not see in the above belly pan picture are the four (4) plastic quick connect screws that are in the fender well. These are oriented horizontally and also require a ¼ turn to extract. There is little space to access these due to the tire being in the way. This is where I used the short, stubby screwdriver to access two (2) per side.
Detail of fender well fastener:
If you get them all out, you will end up with a collection like this:
You can then tilt the rear of the belly pan down and away from the 2nd belly pan. Slide the thing rearward to slip it out from under the front bumper and it will drop right out.
3. Drain Oil
Now we get to the easy part just like any other car. Position your drain receptacle below the drain plug. Using a 19mm box wrench remove the drain plug. Careful - the oil may be hot!
4. Remove Filter
I used a strap wrench on the filter to loosen it a bit.
Make sure you drain receptacle is in place because after backing it out a turn or so the oil will start to drain out. I leave it like this for a few moments to let most of the oil drain out so I don't get it all the way up to my elbow when I remove the filter.
5. Replace Filter
After the obligatory wetting of the rubber gasket with some of the oil, screw the new filter on and tighten until very snug. I usually just do it as tight as I can get with my bare hands - no strap wrench at all when tightening.
6. Replace Drain Plug
Tighten this back up with your box wrench. I'm not sure what the exact torque spec is, but my my highly calibrated forearm torque wrench says not to over do it. Just a little tight is fine.
7. Replace Belly Pan
Drag this big thing back under the car with you and first position the front of it into the front bumper. Be sure that in the fender well area the belly pan goes behind the fender liner as you tilt the pan up in the rear to get it back into its original position. Replace all the fasteners that you removed. You might have to fiddle with some of the quick lock fasteners because the backing part could get out of position.
8. Fill with oil
I use a small funnel the locks in place and allows me to stand the Mobil 1 oil bottles up in it to get every drop.
You should check it while you top it up, but my experience is that 6 to 6.5 quarts is what you will need.
Replace the filler cap and you're done. Put your tools away for the next 10,000 miles.
As I said in my post, I do my own change in between the dealer changes. During my last personal change I decided that I would put a mark on the oil filter just to be sure that the dealer replaced the filter at the next scheduled maintenance visit.
To my horror, I saw this when I dropped my belly pan:
I made the diagonal scratch and drew the small square with a magic marker 10,000 miles ago. The dealer blatently neglected to replace the filter at last scheduled service. Since AoA reimburses them for this service, I see this as fraud.
Any suggestions as to what I should do? I am going to schedule an appointment with the general manager of the dealership this week. How should I handle the visit?
I will name the dealer after I decide what I am going to do. If they are reading this I don't want to get really negative right off the bat as I may buy another new Audi from them or at least need service from them for another new Audi. There is no other conveniently located dealer for me.
there are firms which routinely monitor truck engine condition by analysis of engine oil. I'm not sure the cost, but they can tell what type and viscosity of oil is in the engine, as well as contaminants, metal wear, etc.
...because the service department's obvious reaction will be simply "oops, it was a goof." And a response that would constitute a full remedy, it seems to me, would be for them to apologize and do another oil/filter change. To publicly accuse them of fraud is perilously close to slander -- or at least their lawyers would see it that way. Unless you can prove they did this intentionally and do it routinely, you should consider backing off a bit.
This isn't to say that you should trust them or anything like that, and AoA ought to hear about this lack of attention to detail by their service department. If you can't trust them to do an oil change correctly, it surely doesn't bode well for more complicated things. Their service manager should be made to understand this.
I, too, am stuck going to a dealership I don't feel too good about, for various reasons. The alternative is 6 hours away (compared to 1) in a different state. It's made me begin to consider alternative brands -- but so far, Audi quality and features have won out.
Howard Hanson, BocaRaton/EstesPark
Sadly, the allroad is gone,
and I still miss it.