Remote Control Keyless entry system Wiring
03-21-2009, 05:02 AM
#1
Remote Control Keyless entry system Wiring
So decided to order a Remote Control Keyless entry system, off ebay.de , it supposedly works with our s6 cars and coming in at 35 buck with 2 switchblade keys is a lot cheaper then the dealer option. I have attached the instruction that came with the system, which are not very detailed to say the least, looks to me like it somehow get's wired into the unlock door button. Does anybody have experience with a system as this one, or can figure out and guide me which wires i need to connect to thank you.
Not sure how to post url's in this new format the system lock much like this:
http://cgi.ebay.de/2X-KLAPP-SCHLUSSE...3A1|240%3A1318
Not sure how to post url's in this new format the system lock much like this:
http://cgi.ebay.de/2X-KLAPP-SCHLUSSE...3A1|240%3A1318
Last edited by jojoschauss; 03-21-2009 at 06:03 AM.
03-21-2009, 06:14 AM
#2
AudiWorld Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 835
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=18644390
found here with these instructions:
"The stock IR remotes' range stinks and the key is too big. I picked a Prestige APS25KB alarm system to interface because it was cheap ($45 wholesale/$45+shipping on Ebay), and it has door lock outputs. The APS25 can do a lot of things, but all I want is increased range on the factory alarm (no annoying sirens, no auto start etc.). Also, I shut all the DIP switches off on the APS25 because I didn't want it to automatically lock the car (passive=lock keys in car). Because you are connecting the APS25 in parallel to the factory alarm, the interior lights will work with the RF on disarm, the horn will toot on arm and the IR will still function (you won't want to use it anymore!). This setup will work on all 100?A6 IR systems. I didn't look into other series (90), but if the colors and pins are the same it should work. As far as the replacement key goes, find a good locksmith that makes a key that has a plastic cover on the top where it goes through the ring. They are stronger and look better. Have the car with you to test the key, so if tit doesn't work perfectly the locksmith can fix it.
There are 5 wires you must connect to on the factory harness. The red/gray (+12volt) and the brown(-12volt) wires on the blue plug. The brown/green (disarms the factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), the brown/gray (locks all doors/arms factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), and the green/blue (unlocks all doors when it gets a 12volt+ signal) wires on the black plug. The reason you have to connect the green/blue wire is because you have to turn the key in the door twice to unlock all the doors. Since there is no way to pulse the ground signal twice to the brown/green wire, firing green/blue simultaneously will disarm and unlock. The reason I used the relays are to isolate positive and negative voltage from the factory control unit. The APS25 flip-flops the voltage on lock/unlock and I didn't want to take a chance putting positive voltage to a negative input and frying the factory control ($$$$). Maybe someone else has tried it and can give some input, but I prefer to be safe and stick to the factory design.
You will need the following:
Prestige APS25 or equivalent (must have negative pulse lock/unlock to work with the above diagram.)
3 SPDT automotive relays and bases with lead (standard black cubes)-DIODES REMOVED!!!
Soldering iron
Solder and electrical tape
THESE INSTRUCTIONS WORKED FOR ME-INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
Directions
1.Remove the backseat bottom
2. Disconnect and remove the battery (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR RADIO CODE!)
3. Next to the battery is a large block of foam. Slide this out towards the battery holder. Inside you will find the central locking/alarm control unit. Disconnect the 3 plugs and leave the hose on the bottom connected.
4. Using a razor blade, remove a small section of insulation from the red/gray (pin 1) and the brown (pin 3) wires on the blue plug and the brown/green (pin3), brown/gray (pin4), and the green/blue (pin5) wires on the black plug.
5.Following the wiring diagram, splice, solder, and tape the 5 connections. Make good solid connections, so there are no problems later on.
6.Tape all the wires into a harness that will allow the APS25 to be installed under the plastic wheel well cover, and the 3 relays to be installed on top of the foam block.
7.Re-install the central locking/alarm control unit, being careful not to pinch the hose coming out of the bottom.
8.Install the APS25 under the plastic wheel well cover, stretching the antenna wire up and pinching the end between the plastic wheel well cover and the rubber door molding. This is to improve the reception. The cover and the seat will hold it in place, so you don't need to screw it down.
9. Tape the 3 relays together and slide the mounting tabs in between the foam block and the metal bar on top of it. The seat holds everything in place.
10.Re-install the battery.
11.When you first connect the battery the APS25 will click numerous times. When it stops, you can test the system.
12.Enjoy opening the door from FAR away!
Good Luck!
Jody 1993 CS100 Quattro Wagon Pearl/Black 145K "
found here with these instructions:
"The stock IR remotes' range stinks and the key is too big. I picked a Prestige APS25KB alarm system to interface because it was cheap ($45 wholesale/$45+shipping on Ebay), and it has door lock outputs. The APS25 can do a lot of things, but all I want is increased range on the factory alarm (no annoying sirens, no auto start etc.). Also, I shut all the DIP switches off on the APS25 because I didn't want it to automatically lock the car (passive=lock keys in car). Because you are connecting the APS25 in parallel to the factory alarm, the interior lights will work with the RF on disarm, the horn will toot on arm and the IR will still function (you won't want to use it anymore!). This setup will work on all 100?A6 IR systems. I didn't look into other series (90), but if the colors and pins are the same it should work. As far as the replacement key goes, find a good locksmith that makes a key that has a plastic cover on the top where it goes through the ring. They are stronger and look better. Have the car with you to test the key, so if tit doesn't work perfectly the locksmith can fix it.
There are 5 wires you must connect to on the factory harness. The red/gray (+12volt) and the brown(-12volt) wires on the blue plug. The brown/green (disarms the factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), the brown/gray (locks all doors/arms factory alarm when it gets a ground signal), and the green/blue (unlocks all doors when it gets a 12volt+ signal) wires on the black plug. The reason you have to connect the green/blue wire is because you have to turn the key in the door twice to unlock all the doors. Since there is no way to pulse the ground signal twice to the brown/green wire, firing green/blue simultaneously will disarm and unlock. The reason I used the relays are to isolate positive and negative voltage from the factory control unit. The APS25 flip-flops the voltage on lock/unlock and I didn't want to take a chance putting positive voltage to a negative input and frying the factory control ($$$$). Maybe someone else has tried it and can give some input, but I prefer to be safe and stick to the factory design.
You will need the following:
Prestige APS25 or equivalent (must have negative pulse lock/unlock to work with the above diagram.)
3 SPDT automotive relays and bases with lead (standard black cubes)-DIODES REMOVED!!!
Soldering iron
Solder and electrical tape
THESE INSTRUCTIONS WORKED FOR ME-INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!
Directions
1.Remove the backseat bottom
2. Disconnect and remove the battery (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR RADIO CODE!)
3. Next to the battery is a large block of foam. Slide this out towards the battery holder. Inside you will find the central locking/alarm control unit. Disconnect the 3 plugs and leave the hose on the bottom connected.
4. Using a razor blade, remove a small section of insulation from the red/gray (pin 1) and the brown (pin 3) wires on the blue plug and the brown/green (pin3), brown/gray (pin4), and the green/blue (pin5) wires on the black plug.
5.Following the wiring diagram, splice, solder, and tape the 5 connections. Make good solid connections, so there are no problems later on.
6.Tape all the wires into a harness that will allow the APS25 to be installed under the plastic wheel well cover, and the 3 relays to be installed on top of the foam block.
7.Re-install the central locking/alarm control unit, being careful not to pinch the hose coming out of the bottom.
8.Install the APS25 under the plastic wheel well cover, stretching the antenna wire up and pinching the end between the plastic wheel well cover and the rubber door molding. This is to improve the reception. The cover and the seat will hold it in place, so you don't need to screw it down.
9. Tape the 3 relays together and slide the mounting tabs in between the foam block and the metal bar on top of it. The seat holds everything in place.
10.Re-install the battery.
11.When you first connect the battery the APS25 will click numerous times. When it stops, you can test the system.
12.Enjoy opening the door from FAR away!
Good Luck!
Jody 1993 CS100 Quattro Wagon Pearl/Black 145K "
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KaMaKaZieP -ALUMIN8-
Audi 100 / A6 (C4 Platform)
7
11-05-2002 06:27 PM
