Look for a means to stop the gravity flow of brake fluid from the brake reservoir above the brake master cylinder. It feeds the clutch master cylinder attached to the clutch pedal by a gravity line. The clutch master cylinder is attached to the clutch slave cylinder by tubing and the hose/tubing you need to change. A drip pan under the connection at the frame rail is advisable also. It is easiest to access this connection through the wheel well after removing the drivers side wheel. The fitting is a typical fine thread brake line fitting with a 12mm hex wrench fitting that is easy to round off if you are not careful. The hose end fits in a clip holder on the rail but you may need to hold it with a 19mm or 3/4in wrench. The fitting on the slave cylinder accessed on the side of the bellhousing in front of the transmission is the same 12mm fitting removed with a 12mm wrench also. If you are tall and ape-armed, you can reach it easily from the engine compartment. If not so well endowed, you will have to access it from underneath the vehicle. If you are not accustomed to these brake line fittings, they are soft and easily rounded off. You may need to use some PB blaster if the threads are corroded and have not been prepared by the leaking brake fluid or engine oil. The fine threads are easily crossthreaded which can ruin an expensive part.
I am in the SE US with several royalbrassandhose.com/ physical locations, including one conveniently in town. They replaced the rubber section of the hose in about 15 minutes at a price of $16 plus tax. Any hose shop that has the ability to make/repair brake hoses can perform the repair.
'95.5 S6 avant