bhiggins80@gmail.com

Hi All, I changed my oil the other day and forgot to replace the crush washer. Consequently, about 1/2 quart of oil slowly dripped onto the absorbent pad that is attached to the cowling under the oil pan. The pad is now saturated and I'd ideally like to replace it. However, it seems like it might be glued on. Has anyone ever replaced it ? If so, any idea of what the part number might be ?

Thanks,

Brian

spijun

That is not absorbent pad, but is noise insulation. There is only as a set, there is no separately isolation for buy

bhiggins80@gmail.com

Too funny! Here I was thinking "Damn, those Audi engineers have thought of everything!".

Redd

You will find online sources for "engine room insulation" "marine soundproofing" and similar names for similar materials. I cant recommend any one in particular and would only suggest you want one that is oil-resistant (some are mylar faced for that reason) and heat resistant, which makes them different from "plain" soundproofing.

You'll probably have to tear/scrape/chew the old stuff off, and add the new one with whatever contact cement is recommended for that material.

Funny thing, my last car never had a gasket under the drain plug. Unless the dealer threw it away during the break-in oil change...I never saw one, never used one, and for nearly 30 years didn't lose a drop of oil that way. Despite the modern "must use" we never used to need them. A crush ring (gasket, whatever) certainly ensures a better chance of a seal if there's dirt on the surfaces, but clean paper toweling always ensured clean surfaces and no leaks for me.

This should not be as critical as the copper crush washers in a high pressure diesel injection system.(G)

FWIW.

MP4.2+6.0

Spray it with some kind of solvent, damp out the oil and call it good. BTDT on my 2006 A8 where I first found that applied. Not a separate part. On that one it was heat welded to the belly pan. Don't rub it a lot either. That will cause it to start to come apart.

Redd

Solvent: Speaking of which, there are also a number of marine "bilge cleaners" that are enzyme based. Assuming this is a fiber-glass type very porous material or similar? (I haven't looked.) Soak the panel in a tub of water (or large plastic bag) with the "bilge cleaner" and it will break down any oil overnight. Leaving you with a solvent-free wet panel that just needs to be dried out again.

Some enzyme-based laundry detergents do a similar trick but the bilge products are designed for low sudsing, specific oil eating, etc.

spijun

Price in US is crazy

https://parts.audiusa.com/p/Audi__/R...R1863821D.html

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...on/8r1863821d/

Redd

This is a part I would have no qualms ordering from a scrap yard. Yards in the Midwest would probably sell it for $20-50 with another $15-20 shipping fee.

Some genius mislaid the air induction molding on my last car. Similarly ridiculous. When I got a reply from a Midwest scrap yard and told them I only needed half of the combined assembly, they were able to cut the shipping and in half and charged me about $25 for what the dealership wanted $150++ for.

Do I care if an unseen piece of plastic isn't brand new?(G)

bhiggins80@gmail.com

Good point about buying used. I'll first try to clean it. Failing that, I'll check the scrap yard.

Brian

BG SQ5

I had the same thing happen. Well, mine was dripping when I bought it. I was told you're not supposed to drain the oil the conventional way, but if you do, the whole drain plug must be replaced.

I had the dealer do change and replace the plug. They also cleaned the belly pan and insulation up. I wasn't paying $400 for a new one.