cruzinaround

BTW I ordered a used Q5 driver side top rear door hinge from ebay to be able to get a better look at how it fits together and functions and how it might be possible to better lubricate it.

David Kind

I am new to this forum discussion, but joined because I too am experiencing the creaking sound you guys are talking about. For the record, I also thought it was the exterior shiny black plastic trim piece but after lubricating that piece with WD-40 and lubricating the door hinges, there was no improvement. However, in my case the creaking stops if I apply pressure on the interior rear door window plastic trim piece, the plastic piece that can be seen in the upper left hand corner of the photo above. Today I found this *interior* plastic piece is likely the cause of the issue because is has quite a bit of play when I press on it, and, as I mentioned, the creaking stops if I press on that piece using my left hand (basically reaching back behind my head) while driving. I will look into immobilizing that plastic trim piece and let you know how it goes.

cruzinaround

Roger that. I've pressed on that exact piece with that exact maneuver you've described and been able to deaden or eliminate the noise while driving! It's awkward for sure!

FWIW I've tried jamming some foam in behind that black piece of trim to steady it without any effect -- taping it also. I also jammed a piece of really thick bike pad foam in the door opening against the weatherstripping right where that piece closes and that DID silence the sound. I still think it was the slightly additional pressure it placed on the door/hinge though when closed.

I'm going to keep investigating the hinge. I personally think it's tough for the lubricant to get into the hinge properly with the way the top is permanently attached to the hinge pin. It's also very tough to lubricate the center section between the top and bottom that really carries the weight of the door. I tried to even get dental floss in there to apply some lubricant and couldn't fit it in. REALLY tight. Once I get a look at my junker hinge I ordered I'll figure out a way to get the lubricant to where it really matters.

Again though -- we all REALLY appreciate your help!

Speedooooo

I was reaching above my head and getting the creaking to stop as well lol. Lubricating the hinges has not helped. I need to try the foam piece.

HZ60

I think that the plug under the plastic cap needs to be removed and a grease fitting of some sort installed. No doubt a special Audi item. Give it a couple of shots and then replace the plug. There is what appears to be white lithium type grease residue inside the plastic cap and on the plug so that would be my guess.

canon_mutant

I for one really appreciate all your efforts here. I assumed this was just seat belt rattle and the stealership just CND NFF and any other acronym that involves not fixing it so thanks for giving some things to try.

nate704

I think the hinges are not the problem. The problem is how Audi designed the doors, so that the vibration of the vehicle causes the entire door rattle way too much, and it makes the exterior plastic trim to rattle/buzz while driving.
I bet you can here nothing if you remove the plastic trim and drive around.

David Kind

My goal today was just to see if the sound can be stopped without using my left hand to apply pressure on the rear door window interior plastic trim piece while driving (see my previous post about this, and the post quoted above).

It turns out that the creaking completely stops (at least in my vehicle) by attaching foam padding to the pillar frame and also in the gap between the door and frame after the door is closed. I attached two photos showing this. The foam basically presses on the rear door window plastic trim piece reducing its ability to vibrate while driving.

So I am very happy that the creaking sound can be made to go away, and I have a pretty good understanding of what was causing the annoying creaking. I will start to look into what can be done to find a more elegant solution than attaching foam padding that remains visible. Maybe I need to look into replacing this rear door window plastic trim in the hope that a new one will fit better? Or is this just wishful thinking?




With the driver side rear door open, attach foam to pillar. Then when the door closes, this foam presses on the adjacent window plastic trim piece.




After the rear door is closed, another piece of foam stuffed in the gap to apply additional pressure on the window plastic trim.

cruzinaround

+1

That was my other foam trick! I just couldn't find a way to make it look clean or keep it from placing additional stress on the weather seal that is adjacent to it. I was concerned it might eventually deform. Thanks for the pics!

RE: rear door strikers

Interestingly, my small adjustment to the rear door strikers on the body made a seemingly significant reduction in the sound on the last couple hot days that approached around 90 degrees. I would only hear the sound *very* faintly on the absolutely roughest of sharp bumps. The continuous non-stop ticking that would drive me nuts while driving was gone. All I basically did was align the trailing edge of the rear doors so they were flush with the body and the chrome trim lined up properly when they were shut. In the end, the rear door alignment looks better than from the factory. I think any small change in how the door sits when closed will have an impact on what's causing the the sound. Try moving the striker in *OR* out 1 or 2 mm and see what happens. It's an M8 triplesquare. Just don't go crazy and check your door alignment to make sure it looks good. Slap some tape down before starting to use as a guide when you nudge it. It's really something that anyone can try and hard to mess up.

I know, I know, I'm the only guy that still thinks it's the hinge! That's cool... no worries. I still think any pressure that's happening is just slightly tweaking the angle/tension on the upper hinge and making it quieter. In the end though whatever works for anyone is all that matters!

Right now I'm waiting for another really hot day -- might be until next week -- to see how it goes. Since the striker adjustment though I've been pleased enough with the reduction of the sound. We'll see if it stays relatively quiet!

cruzinaround

So I received a junk B8 upper hinge to check out. That bottom screw under the cap is an external torx that acts as a set screw. When tight, it presses against the lower half of the hinge pin to keep the entire pin from turning. The upper half of the hinge is permanently attached to the top part of the hinge pin by permanently affixed washers above and below the upper hinge piece. The upper half of the hinge then rotates on the stationary hinge pin. It's a REALLY tight fit. I'm experimenting with a better way to get lubrication into this sealed upper half -- possibly by drilling a very small lubrication hole that won't compromise the integrity of the hinge.