DIY oil change tips for the 3.6 Q7.
01-10-2010, 07:20 AM
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DIY oil change tips for the 3.6 Q7.
I've done a lot of oil changes on a lot of cars, but the first on the Q7 was a bit frustrating. And since there's not much in the archives I figured I'd jot a few things down...
- When removing the plastic belly pans, don't assume all the fastener bolts are the same. They're all torx but there are actually three types...one type is obviously unique because it has grey bolt heads with washers. The other two types are black pan-head bolts. But of the black pan-head bolts there are two thread types so it helps if you can keep track of the few that are different (I drove myself crazy when I thought they were all the same because they wouldn't fit). The grey and black bolts are different torx sizes too, though I didn't think to make note of what the sizes were.
- A 6mm hex bit or allen wrench is needed to drain the oil out of the filter assembly.
- A 36mm socket is necessary to remove the fluted cup that holds the oil filter. Also really helps to have a long extension (e.g. 10") for the socket wrench. There's a high-pressure hose that partially blocks access to getting the big socket on the filter cup, but it can be gently pressed out of the way. Be careful though, it could be easily knicked or damaged if you get too rough with it.
- The filter and cup that holds it are snapped together and apparently have to come out together. Unfortunately, the unit won't come out straight down after you've unscrewed it because there's not enough space for it to fit. I had to snake it out by moving it forward through the engine compartment. Very frustrating. Also, I found that the job of getting the filter out was really messy so be prepared by wearing old work clothes or whatever. Even after draining the oil out of the filter assembly with the filter drain plug, there is still oil left in the cup, so when you manuever it out of the engine it spills quite a bit.
- The drain plug on the oil pan is 19mm but there's not enough clearance to get a socket on it so I had to use a box-end wrench (open-end wrench would obviously work too).
That's about it, otherwise it's straightforward as you'd expect an oil change to be. If I think of anything else I'll add it later.
- When removing the plastic belly pans, don't assume all the fastener bolts are the same. They're all torx but there are actually three types...one type is obviously unique because it has grey bolt heads with washers. The other two types are black pan-head bolts. But of the black pan-head bolts there are two thread types so it helps if you can keep track of the few that are different (I drove myself crazy when I thought they were all the same because they wouldn't fit). The grey and black bolts are different torx sizes too, though I didn't think to make note of what the sizes were.
- A 6mm hex bit or allen wrench is needed to drain the oil out of the filter assembly.
- A 36mm socket is necessary to remove the fluted cup that holds the oil filter. Also really helps to have a long extension (e.g. 10") for the socket wrench. There's a high-pressure hose that partially blocks access to getting the big socket on the filter cup, but it can be gently pressed out of the way. Be careful though, it could be easily knicked or damaged if you get too rough with it.
- The filter and cup that holds it are snapped together and apparently have to come out together. Unfortunately, the unit won't come out straight down after you've unscrewed it because there's not enough space for it to fit. I had to snake it out by moving it forward through the engine compartment. Very frustrating. Also, I found that the job of getting the filter out was really messy so be prepared by wearing old work clothes or whatever. Even after draining the oil out of the filter assembly with the filter drain plug, there is still oil left in the cup, so when you manuever it out of the engine it spills quite a bit.
- The drain plug on the oil pan is 19mm but there's not enough clearance to get a socket on it so I had to use a box-end wrench (open-end wrench would obviously work too).
That's about it, otherwise it's straightforward as you'd expect an oil change to be. If I think of anything else I'll add it later.
01-11-2010, 08:22 AM
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you need to write this up with pictures in te tech area. I'll be buying a used Q7 hoping to do my own work and this would be nice to understand before hand..
01-12-2010, 04:30 PM
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Just to add, I used 7qts of Castrol Syntec 5W-40, which meets the VW 50200 and 50500.
The owner's manual indicates that with the filter change you should add 7.3qts, but I found that exactly 7qts filled it to the top of the range on the dipstick. It's possible that I didn't wait long enough for everything to drain out, but I did wait quite a while. So I think in the future I'll just do 7qts again.
01-15-2010, 08:48 AM
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You never get it all out. I bet the 7.3 qts is with it dry from the factory. Nice to know 7 qts will do it. Don't have to buy that extra quart. Sounds like I'm not looking forward to doing it myself?? what do owners use synthetic or normal oil? Or what does Audi call for in these cars?? what weight. 5 -40?? what does an oil chnage cost at the stealer's. I hate anybody working on my cars. I've had to many mechanics mess things up. The problems with most cars is not the car itself but the dealer's who hire 18 year old kids to work on your car with no experience.
01-17-2010, 01:26 PM
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Someone did post instructions with pics, but when I saw what a pain it was (not to mention over $50 in parts with 7+ quarts of synth and OEM filter), the $95 I was quoted from an Indy Euro shop seemed like a bargain.
I have always changed my own oil and continue to do it on my other cars, but sometimes you need to know your limits and what your time is worth.
Jimbo
I have always changed my own oil and continue to do it on my other cars, but sometimes you need to know your limits and what your time is worth.
Jimbo
01-19-2010, 05:56 PM
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You never get it all out. I bet the 7.3 qts is with it dry from the factory. Nice to know 7 qts will do it. Don't have to buy that extra quart. Sounds like I'm not looking forward to doing it myself?? what do owners use synthetic or normal oil? Or what does Audi call for in these cars?? what weight. 5 -40?? what does an oil chnage cost at the stealer's. I hate anybody working on my cars. I've had to many mechanics mess things up. The problems with most cars is not the car itself but the dealer's who hire 18 year old kids to work on your car with no experience.
I've had good luck with Audi service (so far) on the two models I've owned, but obviously this can vary significantly depending on the particular dealership, etc.
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01-19-2010, 06:09 PM
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Someone did post instructions with pics, but when I saw what a pain it was (not to mention over $50 in parts with 7+ quarts of synth and OEM filter), the $95 I was quoted from an Indy Euro shop seemed like a bargain.
I have always changed my own oil and continue to do it on my other cars, but sometimes you need to know your limits and what your time is worth.
Jimbo
I have always changed my own oil and continue to do it on my other cars, but sometimes you need to know your limits and what your time is worth.
Jimbo
01-20-2010, 04:20 PM
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I can't find the link (might have been lost in the redesign), but here are the steps I saved from it:
1. remove filter housing (top of engine), replace filter and o-ring. 25 Nm. This breaks the fluid lock and allows remaining oil to drain into the pan
2. remove belly pan. Loosen rear pan at the rear so that you can drop it
3. open oil drain, remember there's 7+ qts in there, you need a big drain pan
4. replace drain plug, use new aluminum crush washer. 30 Nm.
5. Fill it up. Go 1/2 qt short and then measure via the stick to fill the last amount.
6. check for leaks around drain plug, belly pans back on
1. remove filter housing (top of engine), replace filter and o-ring. 25 Nm. This breaks the fluid lock and allows remaining oil to drain into the pan
2. remove belly pan. Loosen rear pan at the rear so that you can drop it
3. open oil drain, remember there's 7+ qts in there, you need a big drain pan
4. replace drain plug, use new aluminum crush washer. 30 Nm.
5. Fill it up. Go 1/2 qt short and then measure via the stick to fill the last amount.
6. check for leaks around drain plug, belly pans back on
01-20-2010, 10:15 PM
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I can't find the link (might have been lost in the redesign), but here are the steps I saved from it:
1. remove filter housing (top of engine), replace filter and o-ring. 25 Nm. This breaks the fluid lock and allows remaining oil to drain into the pan
2. remove belly pan. Loosen rear pan at the rear so that you can drop it
3. open oil drain, remember there's 7+ qts in there, you need a big drain pan
4. replace drain plug, use new aluminum crush washer. 30 Nm.
5. Fill it up. Go 1/2 qt short and then measure via the stick to fill the last amount.
6. check for leaks around drain plug, belly pans back on
1. remove filter housing (top of engine), replace filter and o-ring. 25 Nm. This breaks the fluid lock and allows remaining oil to drain into the pan
2. remove belly pan. Loosen rear pan at the rear so that you can drop it
3. open oil drain, remember there's 7+ qts in there, you need a big drain pan
4. replace drain plug, use new aluminum crush washer. 30 Nm.
5. Fill it up. Go 1/2 qt short and then measure via the stick to fill the last amount.
6. check for leaks around drain plug, belly pans back on
This instruction for oil filter removal is NOT for Q7 with 3.6l engine. It is for 4.2l engine. The 3.6l engine oil filter change is not hard but it is quite messy.
Last edited by oaktreelimb; 01-21-2010 at 05:20 PM.