J. Patterson

Let me explain. The sensor does not sense rotor wear. BUT-- The wire IS embedded in the sensor and when the pad wears so thin that the sensor wire is worn through and breaks the circuit, the warning light comes on. The sensor is mounted at the outer edge of the pad. If the rotors have a significant lip, that lip will wear through the sensor and break the circuit sooner. If that lip were not there the pads would have to wear thinner before the sensor wire was severed. My sensor on left front wore thru and set the warning light at least 5000 miles ago. Even so those pads still are not nearly metal to metal. I'll change pads and rotors soon but because I knew the rotor lip was what severed the sensor and I inspected and took the sensor out of the circuit, I've gotten lots of good safe service out of the pads and rotors before switching to the new set. This will never be a factor if you change rotors with every pad replacement but if you do as I did 50k miles ago and change pads without changing rotors, it will.

lentiman

I use the stock Brembo pads and Zimmerman rotors. =P

D3Audi

Where did you purchase them and for how much? if you don't mind me asking.

Edd W

Totally agree, and of course, if you change rotors every time you needs pads you are wasting even more money because the rotors have a service life of around three sets of pads typically.

The fears of braking performance being reduced with worn pads are simply incorrect. The best braking performance is probably gained from the thinnest friction material because the surface is better able to dissipate heat into the backing plate. This obviously means prior to metal to metal contact!

lentiman

I actually got the pads from someone selling them locally on Craigslist. They were all new in box from the dealer with sensor wires too. They are sitting on the shelf, waiting for the first pad change.

Pads are easy to find online, just Google: Q7 brake pads brembo
10 2010 Audi Q7 Brake Pad Set - Brake - Brembo, Front - PartsGeek

Same with the rotors, Google: Q7 brake rotors zimmerman
10 2010 Audi Q7 Brake Rotor - Brake - ATE, Balo, Beck Arnley, Bendix, Brembo, Centric, Fremax, Genuine, OEM, OEQ, Original Equipment, Pagid, Pilenga, Pronto, Sebro, Sebro Slotted, Zimmermann, Front, Front Left, Front Right, Rear, Rear Left, Rear Righ

S8code3

lentiman - Why open the brake fluid reservoir (unless you are replacing the fluid)? It's meant to be a closed system. Or did I make a mistake?

Like NorthernQ7 - you just pry the piston back while the old pads are still on and the caliper is still in place. Its easy to do with a flat screwdriver. Keep the reservoir's closed system intact - just pump up the brakes when you are finished before driving. Breaker bar is key to removing the caliper bracket bolts. Replaced with Hawk ceramic pads and SP rotors.

D3Audi - this is a fun DIY project. Dealer will charge >$1500 usually.

lentiman

If you don't open the brake fluid reservoir you will likely have a difficult time getting the calipers to compress. You have to push those calipers all the way in usually get them mounted with new pads onto the rotors, and that fluid has to go somewhere. Also, you need to check the reservoir level as you push the calipers back so you don't have overflowing brake fluid. Remove excess fluid so it doesn't overflow.