Turborusty

I'm currently in the middle of my B&O sub retrofit on my 9k mile 2010 S5. The stock sub was pathetic and rattled the rear deck.

I bought an Earthquake SWS-10 shallow 10" sub and mounted it upside down like the factory sub was(yes, with it bottom-mounted, it still fits beneath the package shelf and factory speaker cover). I went this route because sacrificing trunk space is not an option. This is my wife's business vehicle and as such will regularly have luggage and/or file boxes filling the trunk.

I'm currently wiring up a Rockford Fosgate R500X1-D, which should give around 300-350 watts at 4 ohms. for the amp input signal, I tapped into the factory sub woofer plug with spade terminals rather than chop up the factory wiring. I want to be able to return it the stock setup if that need ever arises.

I've deadened the rear deck but I am concerned that once powered with an amp, it will be too much flex of the factory sheet metal. With just the new 10 and the stock amp, I could visually see the rear deck flexing. I may have to fab up an MDF panel and bolt it to the bottom of the deck to stiffen it and stop all the flexing. I've already had use deadener on the lamp that lights under the package shelf as well as both trunk seatback releases....they were all rattling.

I will update with pics and listening impressions when it's wrapped up.

Cheers,
Turborusty

Bobby Kinstle

Neato. Post lots of pics

Turborusty

Oh my word!! I think I'm going to need to sandwich the rear deck between two pieces of MDF to try to stiffen it up. It's horrendous!

Turborusty

Turborusty

I had to temporarily disconnect the amp and run the new sub directly from the B&O amp.

I'll get it sorted out.

UmbroVR6

will this sub work? its pretty shallow only thing its 4 ohm

Hertz Energy ES F25.5 10" Subwoofer, Model ESF255

Features

Ultra Flat design, for maximum installation flexibility.
Massive motor assembly, for perfect control under high power, high excursion conditions.
Water-repellent pressed paper cone.
Copper voice coil, wound on aluminium former, for startling thermal and mechanical capacity.
Back Vented Spider support, for perfect symmetry under high excursion and thermal dissipation.
Wide-wave, resin-bonded fi ber spider for mechanical reliability and consistent parameters.
High current, tin-plated terminals.
Silver plated lead wires for maximum reliability and conductivity.
Basket and motor coupled and damped through special epoxy glue.
High thermal dissipation and magnetic permeability plates, providing constant, even flux.

Specifiations:

Component Subwoofer
Speaker Size 10"
Power Handling
W Peak: 500
W Continuous: 250
Impedance 4-Ohms
Frequency Response 30Hz - 300Hz
Sensitivity 92dB SPL
Magnet Size 5.5"
Voice Coil Diameter 2.375"
Magnet High density flux ferrite
Cone Water-repellant pressed paper
X-mech 0.5"

Approximate Weight

Unit: 7.26 lbs
Shipping: 9 lbs

Bobby Kinstle

No, must be 8 ohm, or dual voice coil 4 ohm

mavspire

Hi All,

I recently purchased an 2014 S4 and am in the process of completing the amp/sub install but am running into problems.

Specifically, I have everything connected, but the moment I turn up the volume, the sub stops working. The threshold seems to be '15' on the MMI. Anything past that and the sub quits. It does not 'cut' out; it just flat out stops. Power light on the amp remains green but no sound from the Sub.

Equipment:
JVC Amplifier - Chosen primarily for its Size. 400w @ 2ohm
Kicker CompRT 12" Slim Sub - Again, chosen primarily for its size. 2ohm
8 gauge wiring kit

Connections:
Spliced into White and Yellow (on MMI harness) -> +'ve on High Input on amp
Spliced Blue and Yellow (on MMI harness) -> -'ve on High Input on amp
8ga Power wire -> Battery +'ve
8ga Ground Wire -> Top Right Bolt ground bolt from where the original amp was.

Troubleshooting so far:
1. Initially, I had simply removed the nut for the ground, put my cable over and put the nut back. Once I experienced the sub stopping to work, I removed the ground and placed it behind everything so that it was actually touching the frame, then the plastic bit, then the 2 brown ground wires from the factory harness and then the nut. NO change, sub still stops working

2. Switched +'ve and -'ve on the High Input; no change.

3. Switched +'ve and -'ve on amp to sub; no change

I still suspect that its a grounding issue but was curious if anyone has ever experienced this during their install?? Did anyone use an alternate ground point? Did you have to sand off the paint on the frame at the ground point near the top right of the original amp location?

mavspire

Also forgot to mentioned that I purchased another one of the same amp and had exactly the same problem.....leading me to believe its now either wiring or the sub??

UmbroVR6

your GALA is set to inactive... correct?

mavspire

GALA? I've seen that in the settings but had no idea what it did. I'll check to make sure its inactive.