Jrelax

hey phattony57 what was the resolution on this? i pulled out my dipstick and it was also milky. its been in my driveway after it overheated and water is getting into cylinder 1. i know this because i checked it with vagcom and thats the only cylinder misfiring like crazy. i do get white smoke so im thinking its just a head gasket.

donromani

I was pretty sure when this thread came up that his problem would end up being the head-gasket. He really has all the typical signs. In your case, overheating is a common problem with a bad head-gasket as well.

Even if that's not it you better get ready to invest some serious wrenching time into your car - water collecting in the cylinder is a sign of some very bad engine seals...

Jrelax

thanks. its only on one side so it shouldnt be too bad. this all stemmed from a simple error. someone dropped a washer into my block while removing 60# fuel injectors. bent a valve and then it was rebuilt. :-/

MySTG3S4

I take it the same side that got "rebuilt" is the side that is have the issue? How did your spark plugs look? Is cylinder 1 the *only* one with misfire?

What did it cost you to get the rebuilt?

Jrelax

yeap same side that was rebuilt. when i took the plug out it looked fine i didnt check now that the oil looked bad. the rebuild was on the shop as they are the ones who dropped the washer.

MySTG3S4

Personally, since the shop is going to have to take it apart again, you should have them rebuilt the heads to a better setup. Maybe 2.8 with some valve job. IMO the shop should do the work for BOTH sides FREE, since you have to deal with all of these.

Good Luck to you!

1991audi200

similar story with me had a slow coolant leak for about 3 or 4 months and then it started missing and i found coolant was leaking into one of my cylinders. ended up being the gasket. the reason i think it is a gasket is because its the only place that coolant and oil cross eachothers path unless the water pump can cause it too. you will have to do a compression test or compress the coolant system and look for coolant leaking in but a compression test of each cylinder would be better. they should all show somewhat equal compression. If the compression is good it could still be a gasket. i cant think of any other way to tell though unless you pull the heads. good luck

Jrelax

my mechanic said hes having both heads pulled and sent to the machine shop to test. im keeping the 2.7 setup though

phattony57

Well, I wanted to make sure that I fixed everything before posting this. It took me 6 months and about $12k to do it, but I fixed my oil/coolant leak. Here's my writeup for those interested:


START - 06/01/09
Removed Expansion tank (NOTE: keep all screws bagged and labeled)
Removed engine covers and ignition coil packs for pass side
Drained oil and coolant
Removed oil cooler (tested to 20psi w/compressor)
Removed MAF, hose, airbox (10mm nut for box on chassis)
Removed spark plug coil packs for driver side
Removed intake line from bypass valves (*note: oil found in dr. side*)
Removed crankcase breathers (3) & Y-pipe (3x10mm bolts)
Pulled off hose to vacuum reservoir
Disconnected fuel supply (threaded) and return lines (clamped, and EVAP valve hose, clamped)
Removed ignition coil packs (pass. side) & fuel injector connectors (coil bolts bagged)

Re-installed oil cooler & filled w/oil
Compression tested (*note: accelerator not depressed*)
Cylinder 4 - 138psi
Cylinder 5 - 143psi
Cylinder 6 - 142psi
Cylinder 1 - 140psi
Cylinder 2 - 132psi
Cylinder 3 - 144psi

Removed wheels & wheel liners
Removed front grills (pulled out hard)
Removed foglight connectors
Removed bumper (snaps off of side guides, very hard!)
disconnected headlight washer fluid line - snap connecter
Removed intercooler ducts and condenser side shrouds
Disconnected front temperture sensor (ambient) & power steering cooler
(note: power steering cooler left connected under car)
Disconnected condenser fan & removed
Unbolted condenser and swung to the side
Removed lock carrier

Disconnected ground at battery
Removed bipipes w/bypass valves (left screws on timing belt covers)
Removed intercoolers (left hoses attached on top/bottom)
(*note: dr. side hose dumped oil out...suspected bad turbo)
Removed engine pulley fan (used screwdriver, lodged in pulley & channel locks - fan nut is reverse threaded)
Removed serpentine belt

Removed pass. side wire harnesses from wire rack (5 connectors)
Removed ECU wiring & dr. side wire harnesses from wire rack (3 connectors)
Removed small gauge, brown ground wire from firewall (ground wire routed w/ECU wiring)

Removed oil level sensor cable
Drained oil, power steering fluid and removed oil cooler
Removed B+ from battery
Removed power steering hose from rear (hard line, 17mm/19mm connector)
Removed power steering hose from front reservoir to block (clamped)
Detached heater core hoses & fished through firewall
Detached pcv & brake booster hose from block (clamped) & firewall (should be clamped?)
Detached ground on lower pass. side of chassis
Removed harness from alternator (clip), removed (2) bolts holding alt. & 14mm nut holding B+ on back
(*note: no (-) wire)
Unbolted clamp holding B+ cable to engine & fished cable out
Removed A/C compressor (3x13mm long bolts) & disconnected wire from it to PS cover (green connector)
Disconnected clamp holding A/C lines to block & propped A/C compressor up under car

Un-clipped oil level sensor wire and alt. connector wire from chassis-mounted B+ cable to free it up
Removed engine mount nuts
Drained transmission fluid (used 10mm hex replacement plug)

Un-bolted downpipes (clamps) from rear exhaust (post-cats) and left the nuts/washers (17mm)
Heat shields for axles removed (3-6mm hex) - (bagged)
Un-bolted front crossmember to access transmission bolts (bolts left in crossmember)
Bolts taken off transmission bell housing (10 different bolts, seperately marked and bagged)
(*note: lowest (2) hex-head (8mm) bolts taken off after engine raised a few inches)
(*note: (2) bolts hold starter, one is a nut on back side & other is a bolt, still in bell housing)
Heat shields for turbos partially removed (hex-head bolts bagged)
(*note: top downpipe nut removed through turbo heat shields)
Un-bolted downpipe nuts from underneath (bagged)
Un-did zip ties for oxygen sensors (were zipped to ECU harness, low)
Disconnected vehicle speed sensor (R side tranny) and reverse gear switch (L side of tranny)

ENGINE OUT - 06/10/09

Removed passenger side turbo inlet (two bolts on oil pan, both sides - bolts with inlets)
Removed starter (*note: must be put back in place before pass. side turbo inlets replaced*)
Removed (6) lines from both side turbos (bagged coolant, large banjos (4) & small banjos (2) & (4) hex-head bolts for oil-return lines)

Removed fuel pump

Removed oxygen sensors from downpipes
Removed turbo heat shields from downpipes
Removed downpipes
(*note: damaged heat shield material on chassis, fix heat shield and shift tranny w/jack for re-install)
Removed exhaust manifolds from block

ENGINE TO UMS TUNING - 06/17/09 to 08/27/09

*While engine in shop...
Replaced exhaust w/Vibrant cat-back (*note: had to fab in a small spacer for rear L hanger*)
Installed new fuel pump (VAST rebuild…Bosch 255lph)
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced transmission mounts (JHMotorsports)
Replaced cabin air filter
Plugged new radiator (*aftermarket had an extra, threaded hole to the core!)
Replaced bpv's (Samco DV's) and (2) associated hoses (088)
Re-installed downpipes (VAST "piggie") & turbo heat shields
Installed all new oxygen sensors
Installed hose protector sleeves on all hoses
Fabbed FMIC brackets and labeled pipes + slipped on hose fittings
- re-routed headlight washer hose (3/8" inner diameter)
Installed turbo timer (Blitz DCIV)
- (Red-30x, Blue-75x, Green-tapped on VAG, central lock re-routed to 75x)
Installed aftermarket power steering cooler (L-side where L oem intercooler was) against washer fluid res.
Replaced ambient temp. sensor - zip-tied to old intercooler mount, driver's side
Installed EFK (16" fan, 30A fuse - mounted w/alarm siren, 40A DPST relay - mounted on PS reservoir bolt)
- test switch by feet (in cabin) to B+, powers on both fans
- had to cut most of fan & some lock carrier shroud to install, 6 screws w/lock washers, double nut
Zip-tied foglight connectors back, out of the way

Installed hose protector sleeves on all engine hoses
Replaced lower radiator hose
Replaced fuel injectors (630cc Siemens)
Plugged in driver's side cam position sensor harness (forgotten by UMS Tuning)
Replaced throttle body boot and 'F' hose (088)
Replaced N75 valve & Fuel Pressure Regulator (VAST fueling kit)
Re-installed exhaust manifolds (VAST port/polished & ceramic coated, w/new gaskets)
Installed OEM RS4 K04's - used old banjos and hoses (cleaned first)
Installed new inlet piping and old outlet piping (including replacing hoses)
(piping from JHMotorsports, RS4 replicas)
Replaced engine mounts (JHMotorsports)
Replaced throw out bearing (034 Motorsports)
Replaced flywheel w/lightweight (had to cut OEM bolts and smooth off) - spacer & red loctite used
Replaced clutch disc and pressure plate with stage 3 (new oem bolts on pressure plate)

Remember to:
Check for fuel leaks at fuel filter & at fuel pump
Check for exhaust leaks all along exhaust
Check for coolant leaks at radiator hoses and at fixed radiator opening
Check for boost leaks

Replaced heater core w/new OEM (PITA!!!)
Seats cleaned (leather scrubbed and re-stained)

Replaced airbox & MAF with RS4 parts (VAST fueling kit)
Installed large front-mount intercooler (put hoses/adapters on IC itself after putting on bumper guide bolts)
Installed aftermarket thermostat switch for fan control (both fans activate w/climate ctrl, coolant sensor or this amb. sw)

FIRST START W/ENGINE REBUILT - 09/07/09

Pulled all system codes with VAG-COM and resolved all issues (15 codes read)
17645 - 17646 (P1237 - P1242), 17695 (P1287), 16825 (P0441), 18258
- fuel injectors & N249 valve open circuit, EVAP incorrect flow, powertrain databus errors from having fuel pump fuse pulled while cranking to get oil flowing through new turbos
00787, 00792
- temp sensor in fresh air duct and A/C pressure switch errors from uncharged A/C system
00778
- steering angle sensor error from having steering wheel removed for heater core swap
*only needed re-calibrating* - see writeup on using VAG-COM for steering calibration for B5's
01370, 18010
- bogus errors, ignore, clear and they go away
16730 (P0346)
- cam position sensor G163 (driver's side bank) error - *car taken back to UMS Tuning from 9/16 to 10/13*
*replaced cam chain, chain tensioner & gaskets (again)*
* found that cam sprocket (chain side) had shifted slightly…removed sprocket and re-installed (so that it can't move again!)
Replaced front bumper attachment guides
Filled coolant, oil, power steering fluid (takes more than you think for cooler!) & washer fluid
Modified bumper inserts for IC piping (lower)

FINAL TWO MONTHS OF "FINE TUNING" - 10/13/09 - 12/14/09

Replaced rear coolant pipe and seals to cylinder heads - *leak found at heater core feed hose Oct. 20*
Replaced oil cooler - * Nov 15, mixing was still occuring*
Replaced intake manifold gaskets (added 034 Motorsports 5mm spacers) - *smoothed idle, no boost leaks now*
Sent computer to VAST Performance for last "fine tuning" programming - *eliminated P1176 O2 sensor error*
Completely finished 12/14/09 !! (exception = touchup painting TBD)

I have this written as an Excel document (with full aftermarket parts list) if anyone is interested. And I have many more pics. Long story short, there were many problems with my S4 and I'm very glad that I went through the entire engine. The only mods that had been previously done were the Tein coilovers and the short shift kit. It had a salvaged title when I purchased it (cheaply!) because it had been in a front-end collision early in its life. When I was making my repairs I found that both engine mounts had been broken off their studs, the driver's side turbo was about to go out as it was leaking a considerable amount of oil. The passenger side intercooler had a very large air leak in it, which I'm sure was causing the turbos to work too hard. And many other little problems existed as well.

While the engine was at my tuner's shop, he sent the heads in to a machine shop for a complete valve job (port & polish too) because the engine failed their leakdown test. One of the old head gaskets had a suspicious corner where it appeared to be worn down, as if coolant and oil could have been mixing there. Of course, I did the timing belt + all its accessories, and any/all engine gaskets while everything was out/apart. Plus, basically every piece of the cooling system ended up getting replaced.

So, with just under 80k miles on the car, I now have a complete stage 3 build with many new parts. The car runs very strong! Someone who actually reads all of this may point out that the oil and coolant were still mixing after I did my stage 3 complete build and they'd be right. There was the suspicious head gasket, but the oil cooler was a guilty piece of equipment too. The 20psi that I used to test it was not adequate. But, I'm definitely not sorry that I spent all of the money and did all the work...it's totally worth it to have the stage 3. I had a 500hp Evo and it didn't feel like this does!

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/1816/13afterdrivsidefront.jpg
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4023/12afterdrivsiderear.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/3593/10after1.jpg
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/6496/09engineafter3.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/7118/08engineafter2.jpg
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/3973/07engineafter1.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3219/04enginebefore2.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6116/03enginebefore1.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/4268/02during1.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3696/01before1.jpg

UNIDI

I have a same exact problem... did you find any solution?
the only difference is that I have B6 1.8t quattro...
please let me know if you resolved your problem and how.