_muppet_

Here are the codes I have present right now:

4 Faults Found:

18042 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High
P1634 - 35-00 - -
17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2: Open Circuit
P1118 - 35-00 - -
17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235): Open or Short to Plus
P1453 - 35-00 - -
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236): Open or Short to Plus
P1457 - 35-00 - -

Readiness: 0110 0101

I have searched and found that these codes sometimes show up together when oxygen sensors short out which makes sense, as I just spliced in a new sensor at B1 S2. I was getting a short to plus at this sensor until I unplugged it, but I cannot get the accelerator pos. code to clear, or the egt codes. Here is what I have done so far. I started with a boost leak test before I even hooked the vag up because the car was making no boost and was totally gutless I thought maybe a coupler had popped off. After vag results I pulled and inspected every fuse in the fuse box, as well one 5 amp in the drivers footwell and the 50 and 60 amp fuses in the footwell. They all appear to be fine. I did a throttle body alignment (VAG). I checked the grounds in the engine bay (two wires on the intake manifold, three on the firewall behind the coolant reservoir, the main battery ground in the rain tray, and the heavy ground on the passenger side frame rail by the alternator) I also swapped the ecu just because I was running out of ideas. When I clear the codes the accel code and the O2 sensor code come back immediately, the egt codes take a minute to show up.

If it matters the car is a stage 3 running the Awe fueling kit, it's a 2000 with the hitachi conversion, but I believe my problem stems from my O2 sensor.

This thread, specifically post #8 makes me wonder if I'm overlooking a fuse somewhere.
https://forums.audiworld.com/showthre...ighlight=18042

I have tried another O2 sensor which brings back the short to + at B1 S2, but doesn't change the other codes, I also vagged another ecu and it brings up the same codes, so I think there is either a wire crossed or a fuse I am missing. I am really thinking about picking up a new engine harness, but hate to spend the time and money if it's something stupid like a hidden fuse.

I appreciate any help you can offer.

x19

4 Faults Found:

18042 - Accelerator Position Sensor 2 (G185): Signal too High
P1634 - 35-00 - -
17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2: Open Circuit
P1118 - 35-00 - -
17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235): Open or Short to Plus
P1453 - 35-00 - -
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236): Open or Short to Plus
P1457 - 35-00 - -

Problems Looks like on wiring harness on B1 side and grab and bend harness while engine at idling and see what will code be changing or not. also you can test reference voltage at 02 connector before the idling test, No exhaust leakage on B1. x19

Peter Badore

I would start by swapping the accelerator pedal from a known good car or a new one. The faults seem unrelated but you would need to look at an S4 wiring diagram to be certain. Both the egt sensors and the accelerator pedal sensor
will put the engine into limp in mode.

_muppet_

The codes do seem unrelated, until you search the accelerator code and realize how many people have the exact same batch of codes. Several people with these codes have stated they swapped pedal sensors and egts with no success.

I have tried moving the harness around to try and find a short with no luck. I am trying to get my hands on another harness right now.

_muppet_

I found my issue, my shorted o2 sensor killed my ecu, and the other ecu I was testing with. I put a third in and the codes are gone. The codes will not clear from the first two ecus, the third works fine. I killed my stge 3 ecu and a revo stage 2 ecu.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do not splice your o2 sensors !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Peter Badore

How does this happen? Did you splice the wrong wires? Can this happen with an OEM O2 sensor?

Chris's S4

Why would you ever splice an O2 sensor? Please tell me you didn't splice it from one side to the other. And if you didn't, then splicing to the original wiring isn't an issue. As long as you splice to the correct wires that is.

Did ya figure out which wires to hook up to? I'm curious to what you actually did... Indulge me please.

_muppet_

I soldered the wires and used shrink tubing over them, time in the heat from the exhaust caused cracks in the shrink tubing, and the wires touched.

SoCal Life

Question?! HOW did you clear the codes?! I did the same exact thing (idiot haha) and have very similar codes that won't clear even though I have a new ECU in. Thanks!

Chris's S4

Vag-Com.... ebay has the cable for cheap...