santorins4

Damn, wish I could edit my post but this is the right article: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...php?p=13870560 The one above is a follow up from another member.

DAS4

That's awesome. Looks like it reduces a lot of risk. If I'm reading the pics in that correctly, the hoses that actually connect to directly to the coolant pump are not removed? If that's the case, new hoses may be a good idea. I've also noticed a leak in the power steering. I can see bubbles and metal shavings in the power steering reservoir. This all happened at the same time. What should I look for pertaining to the power steering pump and surrounding hoses etc?I'm wondering if some place where the cooling system and power steering cross are now exposed to one another.

bingS4

Oh, by the way, you can consider deleting it altogether. The things almost never turn on unless you've been running really hard and then just shut off the engine. As long as you keep it idling for a while after hard driving, there's no need for it.

On the other hand, many have gotten the lower temp switch which makes it run at lower temperatures, pretty much every time you turn off the car. You might consider doing that too.

santorins4

Exactly, undo the hoses at the far ends, slide the rubber rings that hold the pump in place so you can remove it, and pull the pump (along with connected hoses) out the firewall side. The hardest clip was the one towards the firewall where the hard oil line may be in the way. That is where the angled long pliers come in. The hoses will seem stuck but prying gently with a screwdriver will help break the seal, once that goes mine just slipped right off the connector.

Sorry can't help you with the PS issues.

billdapart

I would definitely get the relocation kit that puts the aux. pump down by the alternator. It's really not that hard to do, it will never fail again, and the updated pump is a quieter and more efficient design. 2c

GomerPyle

I bought a few new tools to do this job without removing the intake: long nosed pliers, and a hose clamp pliers. I did buy the intake gaskets just in case, but didn't need it. The whole job took me less than 2 hours. The key is to buy new hoses, and use traditional hose clamps that you can turn with a nut driver or screw driver for putting things back together.

The hardest part was removing the old hoses and the clamp from the firewall side with that hard metal tube right in the way. That's where the long angled needle nose pliers came in handy. Pulling the old hoses off kind of sucked since they're caked on, but nothing that a knife and screw driver couldn't solve. Reaching under the intake to grab the hoses is a pain, but doable. I'm ~200lbs and could get my hand in there. A few cuts and bruises are par for the course. Sliding the new hoses on is easier if you take some new coolant wipe the inside with your finger, making it slippery - much easier than pulling the old ones off.

If I did it again, I'd also find a way to catch the spring clip on the electrical connector to the pump (good thing there's another one just like it in a more accessible location for when my replacement arrives), and find a way around the oil pressure sensor wire right by the throttle body and hose to the pump. That thing is a POS that will break if you look at it funny.

skamgdi

i did this w/o taking the manifold off and i dont have the hands of a 12 y/o girl... just had to move some things out of the way to get my hand in there and it was pretty easy.. getting it back in and connected is a bit of a task and make sue u dont pull any vacume lines off.. i added a hour on my juob trying to find where this cvacume hose when and it was right in my face but hidden lol