OEM battery specs
12-11-2005, 06:47 PM
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OEM battery specs
Hi all,
My battery started dying this week (after just short of 6 years and 79,000 miles), so I did some digging to discover what the OEM battery specs are for the B5 S4. Apparently, there are at least 2 different batteries that have gone into these cars, but I believe that all are manufactured by Moll. My car is a '00, and the battery is has an ETN of:
570 082 057
According to the <a href="http://www.moll-batterien.de/moll_englisch/news_etn.html">Moll website for decoding ETN numbers</a>, this means 570 CCA with a 70Ah reserve. The other battery specified for a B5 S4 has an ETN of:
580 045 064
which is a 640 CCA battery with an 80Ah reserve. I believe that this battery is phyically larger than mine, which may explain why some people have a different hold-down clamp for their battery.
For further information, here is an Excel
spreadsheet which tells you exactly which battery is OE for each model of Audi Moll supports:
<a href="http://www.moll-batterien.de/moll_englisch/downloads/moll_zuornungsliste.xls">Moll application list</a>
The spreadsheet also maps DIN numbers (the part number listed on older batteries) to ETN numbers (the newer number). In general, it looks like you take the first 3 digits of the ETN number and concatenate them with the 5th and 6th digits to get the DIN number (e.g. my battery should be 57082). The spreadsheet seems to cover most Audi's prior to 2003.
If you ever need to convert between the various CCA standards (SAE/JIS/DIN), you can take a look at the table located here:
<a href="http://www.midtronics.com/manuals/power_sensor105_manual.pdf">CCA conversion chart (PDF)</a>
Anyway, I hope that this helps someone in the future.
Later,
Colin
P.S. My OEM battery had pretty much dried out. Even after filling up with distilled water, it wouldn't hold a full charge. Be sure to periodically check the electrolyte level or you could lose a year or two of life on your battery as well.
My battery started dying this week (after just short of 6 years and 79,000 miles), so I did some digging to discover what the OEM battery specs are for the B5 S4. Apparently, there are at least 2 different batteries that have gone into these cars, but I believe that all are manufactured by Moll. My car is a '00, and the battery is has an ETN of:
570 082 057
According to the <a href="http://www.moll-batterien.de/moll_englisch/news_etn.html">Moll website for decoding ETN numbers</a>, this means 570 CCA with a 70Ah reserve. The other battery specified for a B5 S4 has an ETN of:
580 045 064
which is a 640 CCA battery with an 80Ah reserve. I believe that this battery is phyically larger than mine, which may explain why some people have a different hold-down clamp for their battery.
For further information, here is an Excel
spreadsheet which tells you exactly which battery is OE for each model of Audi Moll supports:
<a href="http://www.moll-batterien.de/moll_englisch/downloads/moll_zuornungsliste.xls">Moll application list</a>
The spreadsheet also maps DIN numbers (the part number listed on older batteries) to ETN numbers (the newer number). In general, it looks like you take the first 3 digits of the ETN number and concatenate them with the 5th and 6th digits to get the DIN number (e.g. my battery should be 57082). The spreadsheet seems to cover most Audi's prior to 2003.
If you ever need to convert between the various CCA standards (SAE/JIS/DIN), you can take a look at the table located here:
<a href="http://www.midtronics.com/manuals/power_sensor105_manual.pdf">CCA conversion chart (PDF)</a>
Anyway, I hope that this helps someone in the future.
Later,
Colin
P.S. My OEM battery had pretty much dried out. Even after filling up with distilled water, it wouldn't hold a full charge. Be sure to periodically check the electrolyte level or you could lose a year or two of life on your battery as well.
12-11-2005, 10:43 PM
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Re: OEM battery specs
No, the car was just having a really hard time turning over. Once it started, it would go up to the full 14.2 volts and stay there (unless I turned on the headlights, then it dropped to 14 until the car warmed up). Unless you've got a huge stereo or something else dragging on the electrical system, I'd suspect the alternator.
11-16-2014, 10:39 PM
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battery problem
No, the car was just having a really hard time turning over. Once it started, it would go up to the full 14.2 volts and stay there (unless I turned on the headlights, then it dropped to 14 until the car warmed up). Unless you've got a huge stereo or something else dragging on the electrical system, I'd suspect the alternator.
That sounds like the problem is not the battery. Just go the nearest Motor-electrical shop and run the alternator test. It sounds like the alternator is not providing enough for charging the battery.
Naturally if the alternator was ok, the battery gauge was not going to drop. If it is showing 12v, on the highway, then the alternator is not charging properly. The alternator is supposed to provide min 13.6v; anything less is a sign of fault of alternator; anything more is acceptable upto 14.2v, beyond that it is not healthy for charging the battery.
John
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