whistler13

Got delivery of my first Audi (Sepang Blue S6) about a month ago after driving nothing but BMWs for the last 23 years. Absolutely love it. Very happy with the decision.

I've always put a set of snow tires on my car every year, which is pretty much a necessity in Northern NJ if you're riding on sport tires.

My question is this- the manual says there is a "sill extension cover" that needs to be removed to expose the jacking point. I gave that cover a few tugs, but stopped short of using to much force for fear of breaking it. It didn't want to come off. Is there any trick to removing it? I've even looked for a YouTube video of an Audi tire change, but most seem to lack the sill extension cover.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

schalliol

No help from me on the cover, as I've never jacked my car, but welcome! What BMW's did you have before? A friend had the first model year of the V10 M5, which offers many similarities to this car, but I have to say that the S6 improves on it in every-single-way. The M5 was so finicky and broke down all the time for no apparent reason on top if that.

63MM

I didn't remove the sills but used a carefuly placed hockey puck on my jack. Worked perfectly. Think you will find many here have done the same.

HyperS4

They are clipped in. Just curl your fingers in and pull down and out. Its a snap up and in. Hang on, maybe I can take some pictures here on the floor....brb.

HyperS4

Ok, Here ya go!

HyperS4

More, sorry it wouldnt let me put all in one post.

schalliol

This is what makes AW awesome. Great visuals!

whistler13

Thanks! I think I was pulling down too much when it looks like I should have been pulling it straight out a bit more.

I think it should be an easier process changing over the Audi wheels vs. the BMW. The BMW has these "jack pads" near each wheel, under which you position your jack (by the way, the car had run-flat tires so I had to purchase a dolly jack from Sears. No jack and no tire iron provided with the car). And because I didn't use the special "jack pad adapter" to fit neatly into the jack pads, they got pretty banged up. viz.

http://burgertuning.com/images/335i_...pad_damage.jpg

It's not like they were visible to anyone, but they would sometimes give a tiny bit under the full weight of the jacked car with a loud POP, which is not ideal.

Also, the BMW didn't have that nice star shaped wheel center cap that the Audi has. So even as careful as one can be while repeatedly stomping on a lug wrench attached to a sticky bolt, that part of the wheel would invariable get scratched up.

schalliol

Now that you figured this out, and since you clearly change your own wheels, I wondered if you could offer some ideas as I consider changing my own wheels for Winter. I've never changed my wheels before (done for a flat before), but I'm wondering how long it takes you to swap each wheel and what tools you use. I won't do it if I'm not sure I can do it safely, but thought I'd see if I can help learn from a pro and avoid squeezing my wheels into my car:

• As I've been doing research, it seems you want to use a 2.5 or 3 ton hydraulic jack. Agreed? Any recommendations?
• Do you use jack stands, and if so, how does that really work when you use just one wheel at a time. I don't really understand where you'd place the stands.
• I assume you use wheel chocks for the two wheels on the other end of the car. Right?
• I've heard some say they use an impact wrench to do the wheels pretty easily, while most use a long lug wrench. I understand you want to apply a particular amount of torque to the lug nuts, no more, no less. How do you verify you have the correct torque?
• Do you have any product recommendations?

Thanks!

thelionsden

2.5 -3 ton jack is fine. Harbor freight is very reasonable. I got the quick raise one for about 100 bucks

I use one of these. There is a cheaper model on eBay. Don't need to remove plastic sill covers with this:

Jack Pad Tools for Audi R8, Mk2 TT, S5, S6, S7, S8, RS5

You don't need jack stands to do one wheel at a time. Just don't put yourself under the car in case the jack fails. (unlikely)

I don't use wheel chocks on my almost level garage floor. The car is in park with three wheels on the ground. Its not going anywhere. I suppose the parking brake wouldn't hurt tho. No one would fault you for using chocks, especially if you are on an incline. But make sure you use something that will not slide, or you are just wasting your time.

I usually lift the car a bit but leave the tire on the ground to break the bolts loose if I am using a breaker bar. I use a ratcheting breaker bar and plastic coated lug sockets (to protect my HRE's!) from harbor freight. Then I lift it more to get the tire off the ground to get the bolts off the rest of the way.

If you are using an impact wrench you can jack the tire off the ground to start with as it does not leverage against the axle when it turns the bolt. Don't lift it too high, just a little bit off the ground. Then you won't have to lift the wheel/tire too high to get the new one on.

The only way to verify the torque is with a torque wrench. S6 is 90 ft/lbs.

They sell that at harbor freight as well. Not the best but works fine for wheels.

You can buy an impact wrench with torque setting but of course you will need a compressor.

Good to recheck torque after driving for a bit.