n828cl

Drove the MK1 for 15 winters in Minnesota, and the MK3 this past winter with no problems. This included the usual Christmas trip to Elmira and back. As long as you have decent tires and are reasonably proficient at dodging potholes, it's fine in the winter. Probably don't want to try slogging through a foot or more of lake-effect snow, but the TTS handled eight inches here quite well (the TTS is 10 mm lower than the TT).

- Chuck

docjll

Very encouraging - thanks, Chuck

Jim

Huey52

I used to follow the "2,500 can't hurt" philosophy myself, but now it's unwarranted. The initial dealer 5k oil change for "break in" is more than adequate. And taking it easy for the first 500 miles is also adequate.

i3adSaab

Grew up in Glens Falls, ....college at RIT in Rochester.....youngest son still out there finishing his masters, one more year and we're done with all this college costs. Ended up in NH in 1988 working for a german company, still with them many years later, to us it's a perfect place to live.....1 hour to closest good skiing, 1 hour to coast (we're huge surfers), 1 hour to Boston. Big airport close by.....we've gotten used to it.

ok....you're working with that Audi dealership on 15 probably, my youngest son just had a $3k bill with them on his '04 A4 Ultrasport, awesome car.....but getting high mileage. I drive all through the winter with 18" rims and winter tread. In our other cars I've always used Blizzaks....but ended up buying the Audi package for this TT since I was concerned with offsets at TireRack. It cost more for sure, came with Dunlops, but the rims are really sweet.

Basically if you live in an area like Rochester where it snows all the time, the roads are predominately plowed and the TT will be no problem, risks are really low. To me that's one of the main reasons to buy a TT, it can be used year round.

enjoy!

mickster

So anyone care to throw in their 2 cents worth on break-in tips? I've seen the words "take it easy for the first 500 miles" & "you need to break in the engine for a good 1000 miles". But what does that actually mean in terms of driving the vehicle? No dynamic mode? No launch control (guess that's obvious)? What are the best practices? I'm sure my dealer will fill me in when I take delivery but you guys have already been there, done that. So your hands-on input is a bonus. Yah, rookie questions I know but everyone had to start somewhere right?

Huey52

Indeed, we weren't born knowing these things (well, perhaps adg44 was
You want to vary your speed (try not to cruise at say a consistent highway speed for long durations), but no very high speed and no hard acceleration. You're allowing the engine components to gradually wear in a bit and better mesh with their surroundings. Given the more exacting tolerances in modern engines not as much break-in is required as years ago, but still some common sense applies.

docjll

Good info, Huey. I'm 68 and still learning. I will be picking up my new TT in Albany and driving it 200 miles to my home in Rochester. So it really makes sense to take the superhighway. When I did the same thing with a new motorcycle a few years ago, I just varied the mph by a few miles per hour every 20 minutes or so (by just clicking the cruise control up or down a few clicks). Do you think that will be sufficient? Seemed to work OK with the bike.

Huey52

We're all still learning, especially as new technologies advance.
Yes, that's fine but a wider sampling might be better. Some variety is the key so mating parts are subjected to differing conditions of stress and wear. Of course you had some off-highway miles as well so that also helped.

The average person doesn't even think about break-in so still ahead of the game.

btw: sometimes I think the TT is a bit youthful for my chronological (but not mindful) 64 years of age, so good to see a few other "elders" here.

adg44

Huey is on point. If you look in the manual, there is a section in there that goes over how to break in the motor for the first 500 miles. It can't hurt to abide by it, although there are varying camps on how necessary it is.

doveboat

Break in is more for the drive train (trans, differentials, etc.) than engine in modern vehicles. The way I understand it is, the engines are run when built, break in oil is drained, standard spec oil is used to refill. Low RPM (lugging) is what needs to be avoided in the early stages.

Ed