<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/51770/engine.jpg"></center><p>the code is
16545-025 B25 S2 "heating Circut Failure" or something close to that..i may have my '5' and 'S's mixed up, i couldn't really read my own writing haha.
and i got
92-00 'unknown error elaboration'

any ideas what this could be?
the oil temp has been hitting 250degrees lately and the coolent temp has gone over halfway(which isn't normal since i've owned the car it hasn't even reached halfway).

could this cold air setup have caused a bad reading with the maf that could cause this?
as always, i appreciate any help. thanks guys.
matt

 

Thats the 2nd post in as many days with a potential MAF-related O2 sensor issue on the same bank. I would guess its the drivers side post-cat O2 sensor heating element is shot but whatta I know?

 

His was an intermittent function of the sensor itself, not the heating coil. I had to splice his new sensor in because despite 3 attempts with part bin, another online store and the dealers, he kept getting the wrong sensor. Finally I told him I will just splice whatever 4 wire sensor he gets. Turns out, the last dealer gave him a B1S1 sensor duh! But since it was a returned part, they charged him less. I told him I can check his CO2 in his lungs as I hooked it up to the DMM to test it. He was laughing at first until he saw the readings change hehe.

But point is, I don't know what is up with B2S2. Heating coil is easy to check. It should have at least 2.5 ohms in the coil (white wires)

 

be attributing to the hot running temperatures i'm experiencing as of lately?

also is that the name of the sensor in the chiltons or haynes manual, or is there a different name that i should look under? if it's easy enough to change i'd like to do it myself and save a bundle.

thanks a bunch,
matt

 

Could it be your coolant? I saw in your picture that it is way above the max line.

 

what an amazing difference! I pulled the radiator out &amp; sprayed it down very well, then put the water hose into the upper &amp; lower openings to get all the gunk out. Of course, I had to tape off the electrical connection. My temp gauge was reacjing 3/4 of the max temp, &amp; it hasn't gone past the middle since cleaning. This was also done after I replaced: water pump, idler, t-belt tensioner, &amp; t-stat, so I know that has a lot to do with it too. But, what about your timing belt? I knew you'd ask; I replaced it about 5,000 miles ago &amp; didn't have the $$$ then to replace everything else. Believe it or not, my car went 160,000 miles w/out a timing belt change, &amp; 165,000 miles w/out water pump, idler, etc. being changed. I just recently found this out when I called the original owner &amp; asked when they were changed, much to my disappointing surprise they weren't. So now I'm trying to revive this beast. It seems like a brand new car now, except for a few cosmetics. I just hope it holds out for another year or so without any major problems. But I am still waiting for the clutch to go. Anyway, that's way off track for this post.

 

because your coolant cools the oil. Different oil weights and condition of oil can also cause oil temp to rise because - pressure affects temperature - hence air conditioning

Things to look for is - make sure your coolant is clean. Any gunk in it means your radiator may be clogging up. You'll need to flush it. Check your radiator for bugs or web or any crap that can clog it's pores.

A bad thermostat will usually mean the temp rises way up (not a tad) and it cools slightly when the heater is set full blast. Yours may not be going bad yet, or maybe it is. Unfortunately, it is behind timing belt covers - bad Audi - bad

Does your temperature drop when the car is cruising at the freeway? that's an indication that the mechanical clutch of the fan is not engaging. Do the EFK mod :P

To do the secondary O2's, if you have a short 22mm wrench, you can get to it without dropping the exhaust. I didn't and since the exhaust (from the manifold) of a 12V A6 drops in like 10 minutes, I just dropped it. You pull the rubber plug to expose the connector and pull the whole thing out.

It took us 3 hours because I noticed his oil was leaking all over. When I found out it was because some numbnut decided to remove the crush washer, we took a trip to the parts store, bought some copper ones (they don't stock Aluminum), did an oil change and then I degreased his engine and under body. He was in love with his car after that - he couldn't believe how clean his engine was