CODES CODES CODES!!! Need some help!

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Old May 10, 2004 | 07:44 PM
  #1  
Greg PAW - MS's Avatar
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Default CODES CODES CODES!!! Need some help!

OK guys, I'm hoping you can help me out with some ideas regarding the followings codes:

16524 P0140 O2 Sensor Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 No Activity Detected

17522 P1114 Bank1-Sensor2 Internal Resistant too High

17526 P1118 O2 Sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-Sensor2 Open


Not quite sure what these mean in english. These codes are being generated on a 2000 1.8T on which I changed the clutch. All the codes relate to the O2 sensors (number 2 in particular) which I had to remove in order to pull out the downpipe to access the engine bolts. I have checked the electrical contacts on the connectors and they both seem to generate some activity (I'm no expert in what signals they should send out but I am getting voltage variations).

The most perplexing code is the third one which says the O2 sensor is "open" at first I thought it was open as in "open loop" but now I am wondering if it could mean that the sensor is not inserted tight enough. Ie. the sensor opening is open. I did notice that the post-cat sensor could be turned by hand. I tightened it up by hand but maybe this isn't enough?

Is this what this 3rd code means? that the sensor isn't fully/tightly inserted?

Any other ideas on what the heck the problem could be? Only thing I can think of is that the o2 sensors or 3 cat/turbo bolts aren't tight enough and there is gas leaking. I found nothing obvious by spraying the cat & connections with water.

Le me know your ideas!

Cheers,

Greg

P.S. it's really frustrating to go through the hell of pulling off and reinstalling the transmission and then have some annoying CEL light because of (imho) unecessary O2 sensors =/
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Old May 10, 2004 | 07:45 PM
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bogelo's Avatar
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02 sensor is bad
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Old May 10, 2004 | 08:00 PM
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eep's Avatar
eep
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Default Re: CODES CODES CODES!!! Need some help!

The first paragraph at

http://www.12v.org/maintenance/repairs/o2sens.php

Shows what the output of the sensors should look like.

The sensor output is relative to the chassis ground, so if the sensor isn't screwed in tightly (it should be way more than finger tight) that could be causing a flaky signal.

"Open" means open circuit, which would be the case if (for example) the wire was not connected. The first thing I would do would be to tighten the sensor to 35-40 ft lbs and double check the electrical connections, especially the signal wire (black) and clear the codes and try again.
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Old May 11, 2004 | 05:06 AM
  #4  
Greg PAW - MS's Avatar
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Default thanks, what does the "plastic cap" that you shouldn't remove

until install do? obviously these didn't have that. I'm assuming it's for protection but why do they need it? Just trying to get an idea on what kind of damage could be incurred with the plugs out with no "caps".

Cheers
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Old May 11, 2004 | 06:15 AM
  #5  
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eep
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Default Re: thanks, what does the "plastic cap" that you shouldn't remove

I think it's just to make sure that stuff doesn't get in/on to the openings on the sensor body. It doesn't seal or anything, so it's really just a formality; as long as you're careful and don't touch that part of the sensor (from the threads down) there shouldn't be any problem.
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