THE 402 MOD: Audi allroad suspension adjustment how-to
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 16
From: Brighton, MI
I got it! I missed the step (after testing/saving 1-4) to go to 5, enter 1 and save. Only then does it 'take' the settings.
Getting closer to my settings.
Maybe I am to ****, but when I measure all 4 corners (engine running, me OUTSIDE the car), system in level 2, write the numbers down. Keep one (middle value) as 402 (no change), and the other differences as up/downs. Save.
Shut engine off. Start engine. Go up to 3. Wait. Down to 2. No should have equal values, but they are still off by an 3mm to 6mm.
Is the repeatability not that great?
Note: After establish the 'zero line' (402 mm on all 4 corners), I measured fender to ground, and the values became my new 402. Its just much easier to measure from the ground with some accuracy (finding the center of the wheel is quite tricky). Naturally, tire pressure checked to be as specified.
Anyone has other neat tricks to make 402 easy to use?
Getting closer to my settings.
Maybe I am to ****, but when I measure all 4 corners (engine running, me OUTSIDE the car), system in level 2, write the numbers down. Keep one (middle value) as 402 (no change), and the other differences as up/downs. Save.
Shut engine off. Start engine. Go up to 3. Wait. Down to 2. No should have equal values, but they are still off by an 3mm to 6mm.
Is the repeatability not that great?
Note: After establish the 'zero line' (402 mm on all 4 corners), I measured fender to ground, and the values became my new 402. Its just much easier to measure from the ground with some accuracy (finding the center of the wheel is quite tricky). Naturally, tire pressure checked to be as specified.
Anyone has other neat tricks to make 402 easy to use?
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I found repeatability to be accurate to within 1mm on 3 corners. My front right wheel always seems to be off by 5mm. Even when I set the value to compensate for this (again), it goes to the same (within 1mm) position. When calibrating all corners before lowering, I was able to set them all to 402mm except for the FR. It would continually goto ~407mm, even after re-calibrating. I was able to lower the front by 15mm and the back by 10mm and it looks noticeably lower next to a 'stock' allroad. I think it would look nicer lowered with some wider tires.
What tire pressures are you running? I've been using what was labeled on the inside of the driver's door. 39 psi front / 42 psi rear I think?
What tire pressures are you running? I've been using what was labeled on the inside of the driver's door. 39 psi front / 42 psi rear I think?
I got it! I missed the step (after testing/saving 1-4) to go to 5, enter 1 and save. Only then does it 'take' the settings.
Getting closer to my settings.
Maybe I am to ****, but when I measure all 4 corners (engine running, me OUTSIDE the car), system in level 2, write the numbers down. Keep one (middle value) as 402 (no change), and the other differences as up/downs. Save.
Shut engine off. Start engine. Go up to 3. Wait. Down to 2. No should have equal values, but they are still off by an 3mm to 6mm.
Is the repeatability not that great?
Note: After establish the 'zero line' (402 mm on all 4 corners), I measured fender to ground, and the values became my new 402. Its just much easier to measure from the ground with some accuracy (finding the center of the wheel is quite tricky). Naturally, tire pressure checked to be as specified.
Anyone has other neat tricks to make 402 easy to use?
Getting closer to my settings.
Maybe I am to ****, but when I measure all 4 corners (engine running, me OUTSIDE the car), system in level 2, write the numbers down. Keep one (middle value) as 402 (no change), and the other differences as up/downs. Save.
Shut engine off. Start engine. Go up to 3. Wait. Down to 2. No should have equal values, but they are still off by an 3mm to 6mm.
Is the repeatability not that great?
Note: After establish the 'zero line' (402 mm on all 4 corners), I measured fender to ground, and the values became my new 402. Its just much easier to measure from the ground with some accuracy (finding the center of the wheel is quite tricky). Naturally, tire pressure checked to be as specified.
Anyone has other neat tricks to make 402 easy to use?
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 350
Likes: 1
From: Hawthorn Woods, Illinois USA
Here's a tip to make the measurements a bit easier and to completely eliminate the tire's air pressure concerns:
I find it easiest to measure the distance from the top edge of the wheel rim to the upper edge of the fender arc. To this number I add one half the diameter of the wheel rim.
In my case with the allroad's double spoke wheels, the rim diameter is 470mm. Half that is 235mm. So the distance from the top edge of the wheel rim to the fender edge should be 167mm to get the standard 402mm setting. (IN LEVEL 2)
I place the end of my tape measure on the top edge of the wheel rim and note the distance to the highest point on the fender arch edge. For example, if the distance from the wheel rim to the fender is 160 mm, I add that number to the radius of the wheel rim (235 mm) and get a height of 395 mm. It is the 395 mm which would be programmed in the "402 Mod" to get the car back to the standard specs.
I find it easiest to measure the distance from the top edge of the wheel rim to the upper edge of the fender arc. To this number I add one half the diameter of the wheel rim.
In my case with the allroad's double spoke wheels, the rim diameter is 470mm. Half that is 235mm. So the distance from the top edge of the wheel rim to the fender edge should be 167mm to get the standard 402mm setting. (IN LEVEL 2)
I place the end of my tape measure on the top edge of the wheel rim and note the distance to the highest point on the fender arch edge. For example, if the distance from the wheel rim to the fender is 160 mm, I add that number to the radius of the wheel rim (235 mm) and get a height of 395 mm. It is the 395 mm which would be programmed in the "402 Mod" to get the car back to the standard specs.
Audiworld Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Great idea! Thanks for sharing the tip.
Here's a tip to make the measurements a bit easier and to completely eliminate the tire's air pressure concerns:
I find it easiest to measure the distance from the top edge of the wheel rim to the upper edge of the fender arc. To this number I add one half the diameter of the wheel rim.
I find it easiest to measure the distance from the top edge of the wheel rim to the upper edge of the fender arc. To this number I add one half the diameter of the wheel rim.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 16
From: Brighton, MI
I will try it as a 're-set' procedure, and the 'ground' for relative 'up/down' adjustments.
I am currently very low and even on all 4 corners. I will try next to raise the rear by 5mm (so enter 397) to get less of a 'hunkered/weighted down' look and more a bit of dynamic lean.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,777
Likes: 4
From: Lombard, Illinois
You guys have made this excessively hard, IMHO. The simple solution is:
1. Look at the car as it sits at L? (whatever level you usually set the car at, in my case that's L1).
2. Decide how much lower you want it to be when you've finished.
3. Measure from the ground to the highest point of the wheel house opening at all 4 corners and mark them down for reference.
4. Add the correct number of millimeters (the amount you want to lower the car) to 402. For a 1-inch lowering you would add 25mm so your setting would 427mm.
5. Make the adjustment.
6. Look at the result to see if you are happy with it.
7. Measure again just to satisfy curiosity.
8. DONE.
All this nonsense of determining the center of the wheel and measuring from there is a huge waste of time and energy.
BTW, you will probably find several mm's of difference at one or more corners because the system may not be precise after all these years, or the surface you are using probably isn't perfectly level. I really think these small differences are actually OK.
JMO.
1. Look at the car as it sits at L? (whatever level you usually set the car at, in my case that's L1).
2. Decide how much lower you want it to be when you've finished.
3. Measure from the ground to the highest point of the wheel house opening at all 4 corners and mark them down for reference.
4. Add the correct number of millimeters (the amount you want to lower the car) to 402. For a 1-inch lowering you would add 25mm so your setting would 427mm.
5. Make the adjustment.
6. Look at the result to see if you are happy with it.
7. Measure again just to satisfy curiosity.
8. DONE.
All this nonsense of determining the center of the wheel and measuring from there is a huge waste of time and energy.
BTW, you will probably find several mm's of difference at one or more corners because the system may not be precise after all these years, or the surface you are using probably isn't perfectly level. I really think these small differences are actually OK.
JMO.
AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 16
From: Brighton, MI
That's the process I have described and suggested to CHANGE the height (i.e. relative adjustments).
There is still the need for ABSOLUTE (call it: calibration) of the system. And for that, the 'edge of the rim to fender' is very helpful, much better/practical than the 'center of wheel to fender' official (hence "402") method.
There is still the need for ABSOLUTE (call it: calibration) of the system. And for that, the 'edge of the rim to fender' is very helpful, much better/practical than the 'center of wheel to fender' official (hence "402") method.
AudiWorld Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 374
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I just did this yesterday for the first time. After installing my Gen II front springs, the rear seemed to be sitting higher than the front. It turns out the front was low and the rear was correct. So I leveled the car out first, then lowered it 5mm. The original how-to is very good.
I measured from the floor to the bottom center of the wheel arch. I used a right angle framing square aligned with the center of the wheel to make sure my tape measure was accurate and I wasn't holding it at an angle. I used one wheel where the center cap Audi logo was aligned vertical to measure the center to wheel arch distance as a reference point for the 402 dimension.
I measured from the floor to the bottom center of the wheel arch. I used a right angle framing square aligned with the center of the wheel to make sure my tape measure was accurate and I wasn't holding it at an angle. I used one wheel where the center cap Audi logo was aligned vertical to measure the center to wheel arch distance as a reference point for the 402 dimension.
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AudiWorld Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 611
Likes: 2
yup, the level sensors correct for uneven ground. the 402 is giving the system a basic ride height per corner. if you at your own risk decide that you want to reprogram the level modual to 29900.
on a fun side note i ripped the level control esp housing apart to see what kinda crap was in there. i found a small button thats stamped "cherry", like sport mode or something?? on the small bread board.
anyways if you guys want i will make a pinout and what not when im done.,
on a fun side note i ripped the level control esp housing apart to see what kinda crap was in there. i found a small button thats stamped "cherry", like sport mode or something?? on the small bread board.
anyways if you guys want i will make a pinout and what not when im done.,