2000 A4 1.8t main bearing & rod Bearing torque specs.
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2000 A4 1.8t main bearing & rod Bearing torque specs.
Does anyone know the torque specs on the main & rod Bearings in the A4 1.8t ATW engine? Did some exploritory surgery after loosing oil pressure completely. The Bently manual I just got has everything but that info.
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Bentley's says
Page 13-53
Nut for connecting rod bolt
30 Nm (22 ft lb) + additional 1/4 turn (90)
Always replace connecting rod bolt -13-
Grease thread and contact surface
To measure radial play, tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft lb) but no further
Page 13-46
Main bearing cap bolts
Always replace
65 Nm (48 ft lb) + additional 1/4 turn (90)
To measure radial play in crankshaft, tighten to 65 Nm (48 ft lb) but not any further
Nut for connecting rod bolt
30 Nm (22 ft lb) + additional 1/4 turn (90)
Always replace connecting rod bolt -13-
Grease thread and contact surface
To measure radial play, tighten to 30 Nm (22 ft lb) but no further
Page 13-46
Main bearing cap bolts
Always replace
65 Nm (48 ft lb) + additional 1/4 turn (90)
To measure radial play in crankshaft, tighten to 65 Nm (48 ft lb) but not any further
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 521
Likes: 10
From: Hanko, Finland
My opinion on the oil, defineatly use 5W oils, not 10W, much thicker when it's cold, and that's what blows the rod bearings.
They have LOTS of issues with BMW-M cars that user 10W50 or 20W60 oils with the rod bearings, that oil is just too thick for cold weather.
I use 5W30 all year. Our climate here in southern finland is normally 5-20c except january-february -20 to 0celsius, and a few weeks of +30c in the summer.
Of cours if you track your car you shouldnt drive it with 5W30 oil, like 5W50 or 10W50 maybe. But for normal road use 5W30 if not in hot climate.
Knocking sound had me first thinking of rod bearings,when you wrote that no noise at idle, but in gear and under acceleration.
At least in D2 V8 models you can quite easily remove the oil pan, and shouldn't be too much harder here either.
I have had good luck on many engines just replacing the bearings, but on some not again... Depends just how much scratches there are on the crank journal(s). Some have made it with just light sanding to 2000grit. But if there are clear grooves the crank has to be repaired or engine replaced.
They have LOTS of issues with BMW-M cars that user 10W50 or 20W60 oils with the rod bearings, that oil is just too thick for cold weather.
I use 5W30 all year. Our climate here in southern finland is normally 5-20c except january-february -20 to 0celsius, and a few weeks of +30c in the summer.
Of cours if you track your car you shouldnt drive it with 5W30 oil, like 5W50 or 10W50 maybe. But for normal road use 5W30 if not in hot climate.
Knocking sound had me first thinking of rod bearings,when you wrote that no noise at idle, but in gear and under acceleration.
At least in D2 V8 models you can quite easily remove the oil pan, and shouldn't be too much harder here either.
I have had good luck on many engines just replacing the bearings, but on some not again... Depends just how much scratches there are on the crank journal(s). Some have made it with just light sanding to 2000grit. But if there are clear grooves the crank has to be repaired or engine replaced.
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