Touche it is the battery vent. Ill be bleeding the system yet again tomorrow at my buddys shop so i can throw some pressurized air through it. Ill update any progress. Cheers

 

Alright so i finally got in the shop where i had access to an air compressor. I started by first pumping some air into the system to make sure it was fully bled. Nothing still no heat. I then tried to pump some air directly into the heater core both in normal flow and in a reverse flow still no heat. I then tried the chemical soak with some drain cleaner. I let it soak for 2 hours and then thoroughly flushed it and bled it still no heat. I then started to think it may be the flaps but I can hear them working when i turn the blower on and off. I then used the on board climate control to pull off the diagnostic codes. There were 6! they are hard to decipher since some of the pixels are shot in the screen. any ideas? id really like to have heat. To summarize:

Bled system with compressed air
Flushed heater core with water and compressed air
Chemical soaked heater core and flushed
Have 6 codes on the climate control.

Still no heat!!! ???

 

I forgot to add that the heater core inlet hose is piping hot and the outlet hose is just warm but not really hot to the touch...

 

I don't get it. I was just going to reply to this thread since I used to have a heater core problem, by backflushing fixed it. So I read the above and I want to learn how to do this correctly in the event that my heat goes away again. So to check my understanding:

1. I'll get a hose with a rubber stopper with a small hole in it OR I can just use a hose small enough for my blow gun.
2. When you say "fill the tank to the correct level", I assume you mean the white G12 coolant tank? I don't understand what would blowing air into it do?
3. At the heater core, I assume we need to remove the current hoses going into and out of it. Then replace those hoses with one small enough just like #1 above. Using the blow gun, put some air pressure in it so that any fluids would shoot out the other end.

For #3 above, wouldn't running water continuously through the heater core produce a better desired effect of getting rid of any "gunk" in there vs using air? I ran mine for maybe 15-20 minutes "just to be sure" and replaced the fluids with brand new G12 (since the old fluid may have been contaminated with different coolant mixtures which could produce some solids as I've seen in this forum somewhere).

Before, I just used to backflush the heater core. But the problem kept coming back. When I completely used new G12 and backflushed the system, the problem hasn't returned.

 

You are ovethinking this. I'm talking about bleeding the system using compressed air rather than waiting for heat to build pressure in the system. That's it.

Fill the system with coolant. Pressure throught the fill cap. Allow any air trapped to escape via the bleed points. Simple.

 

None of these responses have helped even look at my issue specifically my hvac codes! i need some help guys

 

Go take all of your 6 posts and troll some where else. I always love when people post in threads without reading all the content. It makes so much sense that the hose is clogged omg why didnt i think about that. I mean i guess since my chemical soak didnt run through the hose. I guess when I flushed the system I didnt flush the hoses. I guess when i pushed pressurized air through the system I didnt put any through the hoses. You sir are a genius. Id love to tell you what the 6 codes are but once again you didnt read the content thoroughly or else you would know that I cant read them!! I thought the fact that there are so many codes could be a helpful use of diagnostic information regardless. Bump for someone with a little more intelligence!

 

Drive on down to the parts store and get them to pull the codes for you. Then we'll have a starting point.

(Do you know how to bleed the air out of the system? Pull the "out" heater hose off the nipple up by the firewall until the little hole appears on the top of it. Run the engine until water shots out and then shove it back on.)

Codes may tell the story.

 

You could clear the codes and run adaptation, but if you have one hot hose and one cool hose, your core isn't getting any flow. If that is really the case and if you as sure that the system is correctly bled, the core is plugged with crap.

 

system is bled and flushed. both heater hoses are hot now but still no heat. I did my best to decipher all 6 of the hvac codes with the busted pixels in the head unit. Anyway this is what i came up with.

7.1 Ambient Temperature Sensor at Fresh Air Blower, static open
8.7Temperature Regulator Flap, sporadic block
15.7Air Flow Flap, sporadic block
11.7Central Flap, sporadic block
29.1Belt slip detection "soft", static
29.3Belt slip detection "soft", sporadic

Plan of action? Is it possible im actually having all of these problems? or could it be a problem with the hvac head unit? although im sure the 7.1 code is legit because my ambient temp reading is sporadic sometimes.