APR chip problems?
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APR chip problems?
I've had the Stage 1 chip in my 2000 A4 Avant 1.8T Quattro for about 2 months now. I definately notice the difference, but I'm not sure if everything is functioning properly. Under heavy acceleration and around 4000rpm the power will occasionally crap out on me. There's a jerk as the power drops. Anyone have any experience with this? Should the power be totally consistant and smooth throughout the power range? I've replaced the diverter valve with a billet one from Evolution. I have a boost gauge which show it ramping up to 16 or 17 psi, but it occasionally just seems to cut out.
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Something is wrong with the car...
The chip should pull smoothly. I had a 2000 A4 with APR software, and it was very smooth. Power was increased in the 11/27/2001 update of the software, and smoothness was retained.
My guess is something else is wrong with your car. Things to look for: Boost leaks (loose clamps), and vacuum leaks. Has maintenance been performed on your car (clean air filter, good spark plugs, etc. Have you hooked up your car to vag.com to look for error codes?
My guess is something else is wrong with your car. Things to look for: Boost leaks (loose clamps), and vacuum leaks. Has maintenance been performed on your car (clean air filter, good spark plugs, etc. Have you hooked up your car to vag.com to look for error codes?
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Re: Something is wrong with the car...
Aside from replacing the diverter valve, I haven't checked anything VAG codes. I'll need to double check the connections. I've kept the car maintained with normal Audi services. I came off warranty about 4 months ago, but still have the extended. Can I bring the car to a dealer with the APR chip in there? I planned on this with the chip in "normal" mode, but not in "chipped" mode.
It doesn't do this all the time. Mainly 2nd gear, 4000 rpm, when it's really pulling under heavy acceleration. Maybe it's blowing a connection, but if this were the case, would I still be able to reach max. boost (17psi w/the APR chip?) at other times?
It doesn't do this all the time. Mainly 2nd gear, 4000 rpm, when it's really pulling under heavy acceleration. Maybe it's blowing a connection, but if this were the case, would I still be able to reach max. boost (17psi w/the APR chip?) at other times?
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Yes...
Although I understand the A4's don't actually have BPV's, rather diverter, meaning the excess boost is send back into the system, rather than simply expelled. Maybe it's symantics, but if so, than yes it's replaced. I don't trust my connection at the top of the valve though (the small one). It's recessed into the cap and I had a hard time getting a hose clamp onto it. I may order one more like the OEM.
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Re: Unfortunately, unless you can duplicate the issue in stock mode,
Good point though. Maybe I'll revert back to "stock" mode and see if it gives up at 4000 rpm. Stock only goes to 8psi, so if I have no problems, this may isolate the problem to a turbo issue as a result of the increased boost. MAYBE...I know the APR program does other things to the car than boost adjustments.
But if it does show a problem in stock, I have other problems.
But if it does show a problem in stock, I have other problems.
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By running the car in stock mode...you're not isolating anything...
Like I said, the only purpose is to see if the problem is still present, and if it is, then *maybe* the dealer can do something about it.
Running the turbo with higher boost puts greater demands on a LOT of parts in the engine bay...not just the turbo. A boost leak could be present at 14 psi, but disappear entirely below 10 psi. A vacuum leak could cause major issues at 14 psi, where at 7 psi it's effects are hard to notice. A clogged air filter may work fine when you're running 7 psi, however at 14, the engine might not be getting enough airflow. So you can see, it's not necessarily the turbo...in fact, if you're getting 17 psi of boost, chances are very good that the turbo is fine.
Running the turbo with higher boost puts greater demands on a LOT of parts in the engine bay...not just the turbo. A boost leak could be present at 14 psi, but disappear entirely below 10 psi. A vacuum leak could cause major issues at 14 psi, where at 7 psi it's effects are hard to notice. A clogged air filter may work fine when you're running 7 psi, however at 14, the engine might not be getting enough airflow. So you can see, it's not necessarily the turbo...in fact, if you're getting 17 psi of boost, chances are very good that the turbo is fine.