Coolant Temperature Sensor
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Coolant Temperature Sensor
I've reviewed all of the threads on this topic, I just want to clarify a couple of things. My car has stalled frequently--as if running out of gas. After several minutes it will start, sputter and sometimes move along. There is definitely a problem will fuel/air mix. The car is not overheating and all gauges appear to operate as they should. I also noticed a small bit of smoke coming from the right side of the engine (facing the front of the car). This leads me to think it is the coolant temp sensor. (2) questions: To avoid confusion, what is the exact name for this part and where is it located under the hood. Any thoughts? Thanks, Mike.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 5,742
Likes: 1
engine coolant temperature sensor, or "ECT".....
is located at the back side of the passenger side head. On a '96 12 valve, it'll be a screw in type, in the coolant pipe that connects at the back of each head. 4 pin connector, and could have either 2, 3, or 4 electrical terminals. Should be 058-919-501-A, but there may be an updated number.
I also have no idea why you say it's smoking on the other side of the engine, or why it's stalling. If you asked me, I'd be more inclined to say you need a new idle air control valve, and check the rest of the engine for vacuum leaks, arcing spark plug wires, and an oil leak at the drivers side valve cover gasket.....but what do I know?
I also have no idea why you say it's smoking on the other side of the engine, or why it's stalling. If you asked me, I'd be more inclined to say you need a new idle air control valve, and check the rest of the engine for vacuum leaks, arcing spark plug wires, and an oil leak at the drivers side valve cover gasket.....but what do I know?
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Re: engine coolant temperature sensor, or "ECT".....
Thanks Mat. I recently had all the vacuum lines and spark plugs (not wires)replaced. I'm keeping my fingers crossed about the oil leak. Given that it's the valve cover gasket, any idea on the cost? Is it time to cut my losses?
New Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Re: Coolant Temperature Sensor
If the car is stalling or sputtering at idle or when the clutch is depressed it is most likely the idle control valve. Search this site for how to remove and clean it. There is info here and pictures at a site 12v.org (I am not sure if this site is still around or has moved). You souldn't need any new parts just small hands and some patience getting the valve off.
Trending Topics
Banned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 5,742
Likes: 1
Vc gaskets are cheap & easy, DIY stuff.
I seriously think you have a bad idle air stabilizer (AIC). It costs around $200 something, and is on the passenger side of the throttle body with a 2 pin connector on top. With the engine running, tap it with a 12" 3/8 drive extension. Like a starter on an old school V8. Tap it a few times at idle, & the engine will die or try to if it's bad. Bet, if I win you owe me lunch. ;-) ECT won't cause your engine to stall like that.
AudiWorld Stories
Bringing Audi to Life for Audi Fans
10 Strangest Audi Designs That Actually Made Production
Joe Kucinski
2027 Audi Q7 and SQ7: Audi Upgraded EVERYTHING!
Michael S. Palmer
Audi Unveils Absurdly Cool New Supercar: 10 Things You Need to Know!
Verdad Gallardo
The Highs & Lows of Every Audi C-Class Generation
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Most Expensive Audis Ever Sold on Bring-A-Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Audi Features & Options We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Audi Recreates Crazy-Looking Speed Record Breaker From 1935
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilder Recreates the 1995 Audi TTS Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Every Audi V10 Car Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Re: Vc gaskets are cheap & easy, DIY stuff.
The bet is on. Dropped the car off this morning, and the infamous '96 2.8Q check engine light was ON. As soon as I find out what the fault(s) were, I'll let you know.
The car would only stall while still (at a red light, stop and go traffic, etc--and sporadically, not often). It would drop below idle, then die. When i would give it gas to move rpm's back up before it stalled, that wouldn't work. After a couple of minutes, it would start again. It would crank like it was out of gas, then finally start.
The car would only stall while still (at a red light, stop and go traffic, etc--and sporadically, not often). It would drop below idle, then die. When i would give it gas to move rpm's back up before it stalled, that wouldn't work. After a couple of minutes, it would start again. It would crank like it was out of gas, then finally start.