First many thanks for Carson@riverside for sourcing the parts, my colleague Jaceck for design work, Jonathan the expert machinist and Dick Chiang at DSR for the ECU flash.

For all you 2001 that are wondering if the Hammer file is worth the trouble, it ABSOLUTELY is.

Obviously this took some time and $$ to do it right. I was sufficiently confident to perform the installation of the parts myself but I had the air box and MAF cone machined. Details following.

I got the real TT 225 380 cc injectors. They are actually longer than the stock ones. I though they would not fit, but the distance between the to and bottom O-rings is the same for both.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/injectors.jpg">

The installation of the injectors, stock 4 bar FPR and n75 valve went without any issues.

The TT MAF is considerable larger than the stock as seen here:
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/mafs.jpg">

I could not figure out a good non-Mickey mouse way to make a proper cone for the large TT MAF so I asked my colleague, a mechanical engineer, and Jonathan, a machinist he worked with, to design a part. You can see the result here, it is a piece of art, CNC machined from aluminum. The total cost for that part and the hose coupling ring (also aluminum) is $200. Well worth the money in my opinion. By the way, Jonathan said he can machine pretty much anything. If you are interested, shoot me an email and I can provide contact info. I also got the O-ring for TT MAF as indicated by the arrow.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/ttmafandcone.jpg">

For the air box modification, Jonathan machined off the inside to fit the larger MAF. I finished the left surface with a file and fine sandpaper. Note that part the bottom anchor also had to be shaved off to accommodate the new parts.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/airboxinside.jpg">

Here you can see the parts installed in the air box. I only had to add a couple washers to shim it properly.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/airboxttmafcone.jpg">

View with the samco reducing hose (3" -&gt; 2.75") and aluminum coupling ring as mentioned earlier. The hose was a pain to put in due to the tight clearance. I had to shave a layer off the outside of the hose to get it to fit with the clamp.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/airboxtop.jpg">

Finally the thing installed in the car. Note that I had to provide extensions to connect the "pancake" valve as well as the hose to that @#$@! secondary air injection pump.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/22981/airboxinstalled.jpg">

The car runs well. I'll probably do a dyno on it. Definitely a recommended upgrade.

 

Nice side by side pictures.

 

That's some nice work. Definitely dyno it.

 

I have the same setup but with genesis injectors and stock n75.


been told that there is no need whatsoever to change the n75.

thoughts?

 

-F. The stock on was a C. I am 2001.5 (Have CH ECU). I just figured, why not just do everything while I am at it.

How's your car running with the hammer file?

 

i like it, nice job on the bell mouth part!

 

More importantly, glad you are happy with the hammer file. It is the only K04'd A4 I have driven (my own with hammer) so I don't have much of any comparison base, but assume it feels/is a good amount quicker than regular K04 w/less aggressive tuning. I think it feels pretty powerful, so have always backed up the "K04 isnt useless POS side" of arguments.

How would you compare it to regular K04 programming? my N75 is crapping out, J valve worth it (basically same cost) or stick with stock?

 

how much boost are you spiking and holding at?

 

Oh, there's definitely a very noticeable difference between the regular KO4 and the Hammer. I got taken a bit off guard. I also had the APR chip before that and the KO4 was a noticeable ugrade though seems like there is a bigger difference between regular KO4 to Hammer than from APR KO3 to regular KO4.

I actually have the dyno of the before and will post it with the dyno of the after once I get to it.

 

I didn't have the opportunity to do much testing yet. Only put 10 mi on the car since the upgrade. So far no fault codes. I get at least 1 bar peak but again, I didn't really push it that hard. I know that with the regular KO4 program I was peaking at ~ 1.4 bar and could hold ~ 1.2 bar.