Alright, I think I finally have all the parts to do the bearings on my gf's 2001 A4 1.8T Quattro. I am going to replace the front pass. bearing and the hub. The hub may be OK - but the bearing has been making noise and when I shook it the other day it was LOOSE. I figure it's worth it to replace rather than risk bearing failure.

My original thought was that I would remove the entire knuckle and bring it to a machine shop to press out the bearings and put the new bearing in and then put it all back. This is a bit of a hassle, because of the work involved removing the knuckle, driving 20 minutes to the shop, waiting, taking it back. Plus, the only real time I have to do this is on a Saturday or maybe at night, and the car is needed during the week. The machine shop is only open until 10 or 12 on Saturday and closes at 5 or 6 during the week...so this is a bit problematic.

Enter Harbor Freight Tools - they have a knock-off of the Hub Shark for sale for $100. This tool, in theory, should allow me to remove the bearings while the knuckle is still attached - which will save me a lot of machine shop hassle in addition to the disassembly hassle.

Some people seem to have great results with this, and other seem to still need a press. I'm a bit nervous that I'll waste time cutting corners. Does anyone have any experience with this tool on an A4?

Thanks!

 

I've used and own the hub shark and it rocks. A rear bearing is rated at 5 hrs in the book and I can do it under 2.5 hrs. The first time took longer than the flat labor rate; there is a learning curve to use the tool. Can't say if the HF tool will work.

Two important tips, First, when removing a bearing, whack the end of the removal bolt with a sledge hammer a couple of times when the impact wrench stops turning. You may have to do this 10X or more. Second, make sure that the inner race is supported when installing the hub. If you don't, you the destroy the bearing.

 

Great! That's what I was looking for. I know it may not work in all situations and the HF version has an undersized forcing screw (which I guess is an easy upgrade) - but I was nervous I could be wasting time/money fooling with something that won't get the job done ever. If I use it 2X I will be ahead of the game no problem.

Thanks!

 

And what book is that? No shop I've been to charged or quoted more than 1.5 hrs of labour for the rear bearing.

 

It would easily take me 5 hours if I had to remove the control arms, brakes, CV joint, electrical connectors, etc. so that I could take the control arm into a shop to press in/out and then put it all back together. Then I'd get to take the car to be aligned.

I guess for $80 ($100 with a 20% off coupon) it's worth the risk that it doesn't work. Like I said, if it works 2X for me, it saves me time and probably costs less than the machine shop will charge me each time....if it doesn't work I wasted $80 and I just continue taking it apart so that I can get it to the machine shop.

 

Mitchel's flat time rate is 5 hrs. 1.5 hours is the labor on front brake pads/rotors. If you have shops quoting you 1.5 hours, just take you vehicle there; that is a killer deal. No need for a hub shark. I busted the screw on my hub shark, but a replacement was no issue. Not sure about HF, you may be out $100, then you have to buy a real tool for $500.

 

We are talking about doing the rear wheel bearing on Quattro B5? One quote I got was $160, another $130. Not my usual indy shop, but a couple local garages. It may have been 2 hrs if their rate is $65 per our, but no shops in TO charge less than $75, hence my estimate of under 2 hrs.

 

jseklund, can you post the link to the Hub Shark knockoff at Harbor Freight? I don't see it with their bearing pullers. I'm in the same boat as you and need to do a rear bearing this weekend.

Thanks!

 

Ah, I jumped the gun. This is it, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ers-66829.html

There's no issue with it being described as for FWD front wheel bearings, right? This should work no problem on a B5 Quattro rear bearing, correct?

Thanks!

 

That is the correct link for the knock-off. It seems like it should be useful for both front and back bearings. The only issue I anticipate is that the bearings can be really seized in there (I'm told) and it may not be able to get them out, or the forcing screw may break (it's smaller than the one on the hub shark, but you can buy a thicker screw and use it).

I will most likely be trying this weekend.