A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the B5 Audi A4 produced from 1995-2001 B5 FAQ

installing a sub and amp

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Old May 2, 2002 | 07:28 AM
  #1  
bobos's Avatar
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Default installing a sub and amp

i need some assistance in wiring the thing, i got the pre out adapter already and sub amp and wiring kit.
Now i need to know how to run wires from the HU to the trunk and from the battery to the trunk.
Also ive seen people tap into power under the kickplate, any pictures of any of this? any instructions anywhere? thanks for your help.
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Old May 2, 2002 | 07:35 AM
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Default check here as well...

sorry havent done any install...yet<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/forum/m/audio/">https://www.audiworld.com/forum/m/audio/</a</li></ul>
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Old May 2, 2002 | 07:47 AM
  #3  
Evan (Vogon)'s Avatar
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Default if you are running any good amp

make sure you get power from the battery. the only way. run some 8 or 10 gauge wire from the positive lead on the battery, put a fuse about a foot into the wire from the battery (the stereo shop can sell you this).. run this to the positive on amp -- then run the same gauge wire from the negative and run it to the closest grounding point (seatbelt connection, etc) -- its best to get 100% copper, as its easier to work with, but it might run you .50 - $1.00 a foot.. run the signal wires like you think. from the adapter to the amp. try to isolate power and signal wires (but its not that important) the speaker wires are more fun.. you can either run them all up front and work from there, or you can re run all of them (ultimate solution, but rarely done, and overkill)

have fun
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Old May 2, 2002 | 07:48 AM
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Default Theoretically you can tap into any 12v power source for your remote wire..

What you want is to find a wire that only has juice on it when the car is turned on. In my old ranger I ran it into the fuse box to the power windows fuse. It's messy to go that route so advice from someone who has run their remote wire with a stock head unit in an A4 is needed.

As far as amp power is concerned, There is a grommet under the drivers knee bolster (couple screws and the bottom comes off) where your knees are. It's a perfect spot to run the power wire through.

RCA's...you can feed them into the rear of the console without taking it apart. Then tuck them up so they are resting on top of the passenger version of that panel underneath the dash that you removed ont he drivers side. You then have to remove the door sill, front kick plate and the b pillar to run the wires (that goes for this and the power wires on the drivers side) Be careful with the B piller, it's pretty tricky but it comes off with a combination of some sliding up and down and pulling outward. Remain as calm as you can. Believe me it can **** you off to the point where you just rip it off

The rear seat pops off easily to run the wires under it into the trunk and your set.

couple of things to remember. The reasons you run the RCA's down the opposite side of your car then the power wire or theres an increased chance you will get interference and humming in your subs. DON'T pinch any wires. If it doesn't fit find somwhere where it will. Car fires and ****ty sound (interference, hissing, etc.) comes from pinched wires (not worth the convenience of jamming a wire in a place it doens't fit.) And make your ground cable from your amp to the car as short as possible, ideally under a foot if my memory serves me. I have my amps mounted to the back of my rear seats and my ground is going to the seatbelt bolt. (I have no unwanted noise from my radio..only music)

I think that's about it..good luck.
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Old May 2, 2002 | 07:53 AM
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Default The blau adaptor has a remote turn on wire already, that's the blue one

Get power frm the battery and NO WHERE else. Run 8g wire as the smallest thickness. 4ga depending on how powerful the amp is.

Run the RCAs from the HU down the right side of the car, the power cable/remote turn on wire down the left side of the car.

Post what exactly your using component wise to the audio forum and I'll give more details there,.
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Old May 2, 2002 | 08:18 AM
  #6  
A3 4 Me's Avatar
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Default What's the deal with this "battery-only" advice?

My installer got power from my fuse box - and I don't have any problems. Am I missing something? Or risking something?
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Old May 2, 2002 | 08:29 AM
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Default I think your installer took the easy way out..

The only "approved" way by the pros is to tap the battery directly. It provides the most unaltered power source to an amplifier and it's the safest as well.

Did your install not install an inline fuse as well? If he's relying on the fuse box he did a POOR job.

A primary reason to run a dedicated power cable is
so it can be fused separately and if a short occurs, it won't possibly cause massive electrical damage to the rest of the car, just blow the fuse which is dedicated on the circuit for the amp.
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Old May 2, 2002 | 08:37 AM
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Default its an ok amp and sub

i have a 4gauge wiring kit, and a 500watt amp, an xtant 15" sub

I know the general hook up of this stuff but what i really need is help on how to get the wiring from the battery into the interior of the car and how to run it to the trunk. Also running rcas from the Hu to the trunk i need help with.
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Old May 2, 2002 | 08:58 AM
  #9  
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Default Check out a post frm me on running power cable in audio forum

I have pictures.

I basically drilled a 1/2" hole (necessary for 4ga) right below where the hood grommet is.

You can use the grommet to the right of the battery as well. In where the steering column is. I'm going to use that for a boost guage mostly, which is why I drilled.

As I said, run RCAs on right side of car with speaker wire, run power/remote turn on left side.

You need to remove glove box, kneebolster, front kick panel covers, rear seat, and the side trim on the inside of thecar (just pull up). Once that's off, it's painfully obbious as to where and how you run the cables.
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Old May 2, 2002 | 09:11 AM
  #10  
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Default

Run the power through your ecu box and it will come out above your brake pedal
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