A4 (B5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the B5 Audi A4 produced from 1995-2001 B5 FAQ

Multi Function Switch

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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Default Multi Function Switch

My Audi (A4 1997 Quattro 1.8T automatic) went to LIMP mode recently. Reverse does not work. I took the car to an Audi dealer and they told me Multi Function Switch should be replaced. I am confused on the part#. I was reading Nate's post about replacing MFS and the part# he had was 01V919821D. Searching on the internet for neutral safety switch for Audi A4 gets me part#s like W0133-1598328, J4050-140033. I am not sure which is the right part number if I have to order one. Also is there any link between F125 and Multi Function Switch. Any help is really appreciated.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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01V-919-821-D is the factory (OEM) part number. I have no idea what those other numbers are.

Buy it from here: http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/pa...?siteid=214407
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)
01V-919-821-D is the factory (OEM) part number. I have no idea what those other numbers are.

Buy it from here: http://www.genuinevwaudiparts.com/pa...?siteid=214407
Thanks for your quick response.

Is there any link between F125 and Multi Function Switch? I am asking this question because the note i got from the dealer who inspected my car says, "Needs replacement of Multi Function Switch (F125)" .

Here are some other sites I found the Multi Function Switch? Are these the samne?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1598328.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...ty_switch.html

Also, i saw some posts recommending shokan.com. Just wanted to check the experience from others on buying parts from shokan.com
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 03:31 AM
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Yes, that is the right and same part on all counts. But with it being $360 from a DEALER, why would you bother with those other two places? That's why I provided the factory PN for people who need it.

Screw Shokan, I will *never* give them my money.
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)
Yes, that is the right and same part on all counts. But with it being $360 from a DEALER, why would you bother with those other two places? That's why I provided the factory PN for people who need it.

Screw Shokan, I will *never* give them my money.
Thanks again for quick response. Some more questions before I spend the money on the Multi Function Switch. What could be the reason for the failutre? My car has 80000 miles. Should I ask my mechanic to do some cleaning of the existing switch before buying a new one?

I have emailed through vagcomfinder.com to find somebody local to get hold of a vagcom finder? for transmission codes Do I need vagcom or can i just use OBD scanner from local auto part stores?
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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It's a very common failure. There is no "cleaning up" of the device, look at my post right below the FAQ entry inside the MFS. You'll see why.

You need a VAG-COM to reset the trans codes. A generic scanner will not be able to clear it and the TCU will not function right until the code is cleared.

I think disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes might work too.
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate (ETKA+Scumbag)
It's a very common failure. There is no "cleaning up" of the device, look at my post right below the FAQ entry inside the MFS. You'll see why.

You need a VAG-COM to reset the trans codes. A generic scanner will not be able to clear it and the TCU will not function right until the code is cleared.

I think disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes might work too.
Here are the error codes from the vag-com. What should I do to fix?

Transmission:
2 Faults Found:
00293 - Multi-function Switch (F125)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
27-00 - Implausible Signal

Engine:
2 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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Before going too far, have you cleaned the connections? This is often where the electrical problems really are, and putting on an expensive new MFS will just get you a clean set of contacts. The insides of the MFS is a group of common micro-switches, which are usually sealed and reliable. The connector, however, is kind of out in the weather. Try disconnecting, then spraying WD-40 or contact cleaner in both sides. I had the F125 code, and after a connector cleaning have had no further problems with it.
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by turbo510
Before going too far, have you cleaned the connections? This is often where the electrical problems really are, and putting on an expensive new MFS will just get you a clean set of contacts. The insides of the MFS is a group of common micro-switches, which are usually sealed and reliable. The connector, however, is kind of out in the weather. Try disconnecting, then spraying WD-40 or contact cleaner in both sides. I had the F125 code, and after a connector cleaning have had no further problems with it.
I second this, but don't use wd40, use contact cleaner. It is 3 dollars a can from ACE Hardware. Also, DO NOT pay that much for a switch. The neutral safety switch is WAY cheaper from us than the link you posted above. Just pay attention to your VIN when ordering. I can help you with that if you need.

Link to Neutral Safety Switch:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...aign=postreply
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Old Oct 22, 2009 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ECS Tuning - Sales
I second this, but don't use wd40, use contact cleaner. It is 3 dollars a can from ACE Hardware. Also, DO NOT pay that much for a switch. The neutral safety switch is WAY cheaper from us than the link you posted above. Just pay attention to your VIN when ordering. I can help you with that if you need.

Link to Neutral Safety Switch:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...aign=postreply
My mechanic did some analysis, and he is not convinced on how a Multi Function Switch can impact transmission. my car will not go reverse and will not go over drive. Can only go in 4th gear. he thinks it could be mechanical problem not electonic.
Can somebody explain to me how the MFS can cause this issue?
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