I have heard alot obout 3M IHG.

But does that hold up the best as faras protection?

what do yall use for wax.
and what is the diffrence between wax and polish?

 

www.carcareonline.com does a great job explaining everything in detail.

 

Cleaning your paint does not mean washing your car, it means removing oxidation and contaminants, adding emollient oils back into the paint and smoothing out the surface of the paint.
There are several products on the market that will accomplish one, two or all three of these functions. In fact, there are so many products by so many names, that the correct choice may
be confusing. Before we start, let's define some broad categories of products.

CLEANER: A cleaning agent may be either friction or chemical. A friction cleaner is usually either a silicate or clay particulate. If you examine your paint through a microscope, it would
look like a mountain range with peaks and valleys. The friction or abrasive (don't get nervous at the word abrasive) type cleaner will clip the tops of these mountains off and help fill in the
valleys, to approach the optimum smooth plane that offers the greatest depth of shine. Friction cleaners are usually described as fine, medium or heavy cut. When in doubt, use the least
aggressive product. A chemical cleaner will usually strip equal amounts of hill and dale and thus not help smooth the paint. A cleaner should also remove old wax and other contaminants
in the paint. Chemical type cleaners are usually more effective in removing the remains of 100 M.P.H. bugs, stains, tree sap and tars. Avoid silicone-based products as they are not
beneficial to paint and can cause problems down the road. Ask any professional car painter their thoughts on silicone products, and you will usually get a 30-minute tirade.

GLAZE: A glaze usually denotes a superfine friction type of cleaning agent, usually with essential emollients and lubricating oils and may even contain some mild chemical cleaners. Glazes
will usually remove mild swirl marks, scratches, refresh the paint with oils and smooth out the finish.

POLISH: A polish is normally a non-abrasive product based on a nutrient oil matrix and may or may not have a chemical cleaner as part of the package. Most polishes use fillers to help
cover swirl marks.

COMPOUND: A compound is the "coarse sandpaper" of the paint-cleaning world. This should be used only if the paint is in serious trouble and all else has failed. If you are one step
away from 1-800-NEW-PAINT, then you may consider a compound.

CLAY: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove over spray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is
a learned skill. Use too little lubricant, or get contaminants in the clay, and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme
care. I do not recommend this product as a general paint cleaner. You literally grind off a layer of paint. Should be used as was intended, to remove paint over spray.

CLEANER/WAX: A combination, one-step chemical cleaner and a wax. I am not a fan of these types of products, as they are required to perform two very diverse functions
simultaneously. A cleaner should remove old wax, so how does it simultaneously apply a coat of new wax? You may wish to use this type of product only in emergency situations or on
your Yugo.

WAX: There are two broad categories of wax, organic and polymer based. The organic waxes may be derived from plants such as Carnauba, or varmints, such as bee's wax or some of
the K-Mart specials contain paraffin refined from dead dinosaurs. The polymer-based waxes are usually collected from specially trained robotic bees that gather the polymer nectar from
plastic flowers (or it may be made in chemical factories).

DEGREASERS/TAR/BUG REMOVERS: These types of products are normally solvents designed to dissolve surface contaminants such as road tar or bugs. There are two broad
classifications of solvents, petroleum distillates and citrus based. The quality citrus products tend to be gentler on the paint. Any degreaser/tar/bug remover will remove wax. So after you
have rid your car of the remains of Billy bee, you will have to rewax the area. (What is the last thing that goes through a bee's mind as he slams into your windshield at 60 mph? ......His
stinger.) Be aware that many of the popular over the counter tar removers are based on kerosene and may cause long-term damage to paint.

How often should you clean the paint? The correct answer is based upon several factors. If your car is a "garage queen" and only sees the light of day once a week or so, then once a
year is usually often enough. If it is a daily driver, and sits out in the elements day after day, then twice maybe three times a year may be required. Your paint will tell you when it needs to
be cleaned. It may scream at the top of its little lungs or it may be more subtle and simply lose its luster and look dull (you know your paint better than I do). If the finish is subjected to
acid rain, and the effects of highly acidic bird offerings, then you may have to clean specific areas of the finish a little more often. If someone tells you to clean the paint each time you wax,
then they are either trying to sell you another paint job or have an excess of cleaner they are trying to unload.

Power tools and fine finishes, in my humble opinion, do not mix. There is nothing that a power buffer can do, that you cannot do by hand. The advantage of power is speed. This also
applies to getting yourself into trouble. The edges of your body panels and raised/creased areas of the sheet metal have the thinnest layer of paint. When the body is painted, the liquid
paint will tend to flow away from these raised areas. A power buffer will concentrate its energy on the thin paint of these high points. This is another way of saying hello to your primer or
as the professionals say, "burning an edge". If you must use a power buffer, use only closed cell foam pads and use one pad for each product. Do not use lambs wool type of pads, as
they are swirl marks waiting to happen. Most importantly, use only a cleaner/glaze/polish type product that is specifically formulated for use with a power buffer. The frictional heat of a
buffer will cause some product's abrasives to flocculate or clump together and make your hood look like a newly plowed cornfield. Most people do not appreciate this look.

I have defined some of the major types of cleaners, but realize that the numberless manufacturers do not all conform to the defined nomenclature. I personally prefer a glaze to a polish to
clean and prepare the paint for wax. The difference is that a glaze uses a superfine abrasive cleaning agent, whereas a polish usually uses a chemical cleaner. The glazes tend to smooth out
the paint more effectively than the polishes. If the paint does not have any imperfections, then a polish should be enough. As a rule, if you have swirls or light scratches, then use a glaze. If
you don't then use a polish.

The first step to your cleaning/waxing regimen is to wash your car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly. The benefits of a clean surface cannot be over emphasized, unless you are a
fan of swirl marks and feel that hairline scratches are attractive, wash thoroughly before starting.

Pick a section of the car such as the hood, door, top or whatever. Glaze/polish this section of your car completely, redoing any section(s) that need additional help. The glaze/polish
should produce the deep gloss that you desire. Once this section dazzles you with it's brilliance, then and only then, apply a coat of wax to this section. Realize that the wax is nothing
more than a clear protectant and will not remove or hide scratches or swirl marks. Once this section of your car has been completed, move onto another section and begin the glaze/polish
and wax process again.

If your paint has swirl marks, acid rain marks or faint scratches, then you may wish to use a glaze. The definition of a faint scratch is one that you can see but not feel. If you can feel the
scratch with your fingernail, then it is beyond the scope of this article and should be treated as a paint chip. Rule #1: Use the least aggressive product/technique to get the job done! It is
very easy to repeat an application of a mild product to achieve a result, but is very expensive to replace paint when you have gotten too aggressive. If your paint does not have swirl
marks/scratches, but has lost some of it's luster, then you may consider using a polish. I usually prefer glazes to polishes, but that is somewhat subjective and very dependent upon the
condition of the finish.

Any cloths you use on your car should be 100% cotton and should be washed in the washing machine using only detergent. Do not add any fabric softener to the water. Dry them in the
dryer and DO NOT use a dryer anti-static towel (I think that's what they are called). These dryer towels contain coatings that are transferred to your car cloths and may cause streaks. If
you have ever had your wax streak and you could not figure out why, your dryer towel was probably the culprit. You will remove a giant ball of cloths and static electricity from your
dryer, but will not have mysterious streaks.

All glazes/polishes should be applied to a cool surface and in the shade. Never wash, clean or wax your car in the hot sun. Rule #1, if you can hold your hand comfortably on the surface
of the paint, then you can clean and/or wax your car. Apply with your choice of a soft 100% cotton cloth, applicator pad, or closed cell foam pad. Squirt a small amount onto your
pad/cloth and then apply to the paint surface. Do not apply any product directly onto the surface, as you will tend to use too much and may wind up with an uneven result. Work into the
surface with a linear motion, front to back, back to front, the way the air flows over the car. Do not go around in circles. If a piece of grit lodges under your pad, you have made
sandpaper and a circular motion will produce a 360-degree swirl mark. All scratches are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle, so a circular swirl is visible from any vantage point. A
linear type scratch is only noticeable from a very narrow viewing angle. Work the glaze/polish into the surface using moderate pressure until all that is left is a slight haze. (Read the
directions on the bottle to

determine the manufacturer's recommended method.) Buff out the slight haze with a soft 100% cotton cloth. Buff out a small section, shake out the cloth (away from the car) to remove
any grit and rebuff with a new section. Keep using new sections of cloth and change cloths frequently. I use my wife's old flannel sheets. They are super soft and produce a brilliant shine.
(Try not "borrowing" the sheets from the marital bed, as this may lead to some spousal discontent.) When the chosen section of the car has been completed, rebuff with another clean
cloth. If you are happy with the shine and deep gloss of the section, apply a coat of your favorite wax.

I have outlined the types and usage of glazes and polishes, now I will list several quality paint cleaning agents and give a brief synopsis of each. The most important caveat is "use the least
aggressive product to accomplish the task". It is easy to redo an area with a gentle product; it is rather costly to replace paint once you have gotten enthusiastic with a very aggressive
product. The list is alphabetical, so infer nothing by the order. You may read between the lines to determine my personal favorites.

CLEANERS:

3M IMPERIAL HAND GLAZE: This is my personal favorite (how is that for between the lines?). I have tried just about every product on the market, and keep coming back to 3M
Hand Glaze. It is gentle on the paint, produces, in my humble opinion, the deepest gloss, yet is aggressive enough to remove fine swirl marks and scratches. It also "feeds" the paint with
emollient oils. If an area needs a little more aggressive cleaning, soak your pad in the 3M and add a small amount (about the size of your pinkie nail) of P21S Multi Finish Restorer Polish
(don't you just love the translation of German names?), mix the two together on the pad and then rub out the area using a linear motion. Buff out and repeat if necessary. This combo
works very well on swirl marks and scratches that can be seen but not detected with your fingernail. Once the blemish has been removed, follow with an application of straight Hand
Glaze to restore the deep shine and then wax. The recess behind the door handles is a classic area that responds well to this combination.

HARLY PRE-WAX CLEANER: A mild chemical cleaner and polish that does a decent job on oxidized paint, but doesn't remove scratches that well. It does work very well on oxidized
chrome.

MEGUIAR #01 MEDIUM CUT CLEANER: A moderately abrasive cleaner to remove surface defects including harsh swirl marks, oxidation, water marks, and wet sanding marks.
Follow with a fine glaze (3M or #7) and a coat of wax. This is the "medium sandpaper " of the abrasive cleaner set, so use only if your regular glaze will not do the job.

MEGUIAR #02 FINE CUT CLEANER: A mildly abrasive cleaner for fine swirl marks, water spots, and fine defects. Follow with a fine glaze and a coat of wax. The "fine sandpaper" in
the abrasive cleaner family.

MEGUIAR #04 HEAVY CUT CLEANER: A heavy-duty abrasive cleaner for paint that is one step away for 1-800-NEW-PAINT. This is slightly safer to use than compounds. Should
be followed by an application of #02 and then a fine glaze and a coat of wax. Use with extreme care, or you will make some body shop person very happy.

MEGUIAR #06 CLEANER/WAX: A one step chemical cleaner with a liquid wax. Use for spot application when your favorite cleaning/wax regimen is not practical, or use on your
Yugo.

MEGUIAR #07 SHOWCAR GLAZE: A hand applied glaze to remove fine swirls and water spots also adds emollient oils back into the paint. Follow with a coat of quality wax.

MEGUIAR #09 SWIRL REMOVER: This is a polish (chemical cleaner with an emollient oil matrix) that works well on clear coat finishes that are in reasonably good shape.

MEGUIAR MEDALLION PAINT CLEANER: Another chemical cleaner that contains a fair amount of polymers. This may not work well with some German finishes. Designed for use
with the Medallion cationic bonding system.

ONE GRAND CLEAN & WAX: A one step chemical cleaner, filler and liquid wax. Will hide minor swirl marks and apply a coat of wax in one operation. Another spot repair or daily
"beater car" type of product.

FINISHES:

ONE GRAND OMEGA GLAZE: A fine water based abrasive glaze. Leaves a nice finish. Seems to work better on American/Japanese finishes than German paints.

P21S GLOSS ENHANCING PAINTWORK CLEANSER: (another translation from German): A thick, rich, creamy polish that leaves a deep rich shine. Developed by a German
company with the German finishes in mind. Our favorite product for finishes that do not have scratches. (Did you read between the lines again?). Produces the best deep gloss finish of
any product I have ever tried.

SONAX POLISH & WAX: A high gloss liquid wax that protects against road salts, acid rain, air pollution, etc. Easy to apply and easy to buff out. Use whenever you want quick
protection. Some consider this liquid cleaner/wax to be the best-kept secret of single step waxes.

ZYMOL HD CLEANSE: Zymol offers the "pina colada" experience for those who enjoy the olfactory stimulation while cleaning their paint. A touch aggressive and a touch expensive for
my taste but defended to the death by Zymol addicts. Be aware of a new line of Zymol products that are made by Turtle Wax and sold under the Zymol label. If you find Zymol in
K-Mart, it is really Zurtle Wax. Check the back of the bottle; if it says Chicago, IL, then it's Zurtle.



A coat of wax is nothing more than a clear, sacrificial protectant for the painted, clear coated, polished, chromed and almost all other areas of your car except the rubber
parts. It is far better to have ultraviolet rays, ozone, acid rain, tree sap, road tar, and all the other road hazards attack a coat of wax than attack your paint. The wax can
be refreshed with little effort and cost, whereas replacing paint can be somewhat financially painful. A good coat of wax will also add "depth of shine" and reflective
gloss to the finish, but cannot transform a neglected or abused finish from a pile of rubble into a Pebble Beach Concours winner. For a wax to be effective, it must be
applied to a clean surface, as it will enhance the gloss as well as the defects of the surface.

Carnauba wax is the protective coating of the leaves of the tropical Carnauba plant. Pure Carnauba wax is the consistency of a brick. To be useful as a car wax,
solvents, lubricants and numerous other additives must be blended with the wax. If you see a wax advertised to be 100% Carnauba wax, they are really saying that
whatever wax there may be in the can is 100% Carnauba (one advertised "100%" brand that comes to mind is actually 5.3% Carnauba wax and 94.7% who knows
what). There are also numerous grades of Carnauba, and the top grades are expensive, so a high content percentage may not tell the whole story. The top grades are #1
white and # 1 yellow (no, it does not come in blue). Some of the better waxes on the market are about 25% to 35% #1 Carnauba. Carnauba will produce, in my humble
opinion, the best depth of shine of any type of wax on the market. You may also apply several coats of a quality Carnauba wax over a period of time without getting
"wax buildup". The downside is that Carnauba is somewhat sensitive to excess car wash. A very strong solution of car wash or the use of dish detergent will tend to
strip the wax. The use of the minimal amount of car wash in your wash solution will help your wax last a lot longer.

There are two forms of wax, paste and liquid. They differ basically in the amount of solvents. Rock hard Carnauba is diluted with solvents to either the paste form or
further diluted to the liquid form. When you apply a paste wax, the friction of application helps melt the wax and evaporate the solvents. A liquid wax usually contains
more volatile solvents that evaporate out when the wax is applied. The excess wax, left over lubricants, excess bonding agents, solvent residues and whatever else is left
forms the "haze" that is buffed out to reveal the wax.

The polymer-based waxes tend to last longer, yet do not seem to give the same depth of shine, as do the Carnauba waxes. As a general rule, depth of shine and
longevity are opposite ends of the same scale. Polymer waxes are also usually less sensitive to excess car wash. They do seem to be somewhat more hydroscopic
(absorb water and become cloudy) than the organic waxes. If you are using a polymer based wax on a German paint and have hazing or clouding of the wax, about the
only thing that will work is to strip the polymer wax and rewax with a Carnauba based wax. German paints hate polymer-based waxes. I have spoken to paint chemists,
the Glazurit people, Porsche, BMW and M/B people and to date have not gotten a viable reason for this. I have gotten a lot of mumbling and shuffling of feet, but no
hard and fast answers. The American and Japanese paints can tolerate polymer waxes. The German paints just don't seem to react well with most of these products.
There are also highly advertised Teflon based products on the market. It is my understanding that it requires a 600 plus degree environment to bond Teflon to your paint.
So, unless you are applying it with a flamethrower, you may not be getting all you paid for. (In the same vein, just be glad you are not getting all the government you are
paying for). The polymer-based products will also tend to build up with several applications and this buildup may turn off color over time. The solution to this problem is
to strip everything off and start again.

Prior to applying any wax, thoroughly wash the car with a quality car wash to remove any grime, bugs and tar spots. If washing does not remove all the flora and fauna,
then a stronger cleaning agent may be necessary. There are several quality citrus degreasers or bug and tar removers on the market. Some of my favorites are P21S
Total Auto Wash (a citrus degreaser), Wurth Citrus Degreaser, Wurth Tar Remover, Sonax Tar Remover and One Grand Tar, Wax and Gum Remover. I have found
that the citrus degreasers work better on the organic type contaminants such as 100 M.P.H. bug trophies and tree sap splotches. If you have parked under a tree and
found a coating of very, very small hardened dots on your car, this may not be tree sap. It may be in fact the result of aphids and other little varmints in the trees making
**** statements. Try removing these aphid presents with a strong car wash solution. If this does not work, try using a degreaser on the remaining spots. The tar
removers seem to work better at removing road tar spots. Rewash and rinse any areas you have cleaned with solvents thoroughly to remove all traces of the solvents. If
you have "tar spots" on your wheels, they may not in fact be tar, but are probably brake dust residue. This is a residue from the polymer matrix of the brake pads that
has melted and re-polymerized on your wheels. Tar removers may help remove them, if not, Oil Flo Safety Solvent is usually effective.

Well, it's time to wax your pride and joy. "Honey where is the Pledge? I want to wax the car". Just kidding, unless you own a '34 Cord Laminated Beachwood Boat Tail
Speedster, I would stick with a quality car wax. One of the keys to applying car wax is to apply it sparingly. Assuming that the finish has just been washed and dried and
is free of grit and does not need glazing/polishing, then apply the wax with a small piece of 100% cotton cloth or a terry cloth covered sponge or a foam type applicator
pad. An even better method of application for a paste wax is to use your fingers. Hold your fingers together to form an "applicator". Rub the wax thoroughly into the
surface. Your fingers will give you the tactile feedback to let you know when the wax has been worked into the surface. The heat of your body will also melt the wax
and help it flow onto the surface. This is NOT a situation where a little is good, so a lot must be better. Your paint will only accept X amount of wax. If you apply 100
times X then you will have to remove 99X in the form of dried powder. It will make waxing more difficult, require more buffing and create clouds of white dust.

Make sure the paint surface is cool. Rule of thumb #1, if you can hold your hand comfortably on the paint, then it is cool enough to wax. Work in the shade, preferably in
a garage. Open your can of wax, get a small amount on your fingers (or cloth/pad) and recover the can (this keeps dirt out of the can). Apply to the paint surface,
rubbing in a linear motion. Work into the paint in a front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car). Don't go around in circles the way dear old
dad taught you. If you are using a pad and airborne grit gets under the pad, you have made sandpaper. If you are working in a circle, you have made a 360-degree
scratch (or swirl mark). Since a scratch or swirl mark is most visible from a 90 degree viewing angle, a circular scratch is visible anywhere. If you work in a linear
motion, and scratch the surface, the linear scratch is only visible from a small viewing angle. Using only your fingers to apply wax will give you the tactile feedback to
know when surface grit is about to scratch your paint.

Work the small amount of wax into the surface until all that remains is slight haze. Use of your fingers will also tell you when the wax has been thoroughly worked into
the paint and will help prevent you from using too much wax. Most waxes work best when this slight haze is allowed to dry. Complete the application on one section of
the car such as the hood, trunk, fender, etc. Buff this section and then move onto another section. There are some waxes that require you to buff immediately after
applying to a small 12" X 12" section. Zymol or P21S are classic examples of this type of wax. If you allow Zymol/P21S to dry before buffing, you will need a belt
sander to remove them. Read the directions on the can to determine the proper method. Buff out the slight haze with a soft 100% cotton cloth. Buff a small section;
shake out the cloth to remove any grit and rebuff with a new section. Keep using new sections of and change cloths frequently. I use old flannel sheets. They are super
soft and produce a brilliant shine. Move onto another section of the car. Repeat the application and buffing procedures. When the car has been completed, return to the
first section completed and rebuff with another clean cloth. The wax has had time to harden off and this extra buffing will bring out a rich, deep shine. If there are areas
that are hazy or cloudy, and you are using a Carnauba based wax, the wax has become hydroscopic and has absorbed a little water. Mist the cloudy areas with a small
amount of water (a plant mister works well) and rebuff. This should remove the clouding. In certain very high humidity situations, the wax may not dry properly. The
cure for this problem is to allow the car to bake in the sun for a day or so and then rebuff. The heat of the sun will usually dry the excess moisture and the buffing will
bring out a deep shine.

Another trick to buff out any cloudy areas is to mist the area with One Grand Show Off or Meguiar #34 Final Inspection and buff out. This will usually remove all traces
of trapped water and produce a deep rich shine. These two products are also handy to remove water spots from well-waxed surfaces. Make sure the surface is clean
and free of grit, spray on and buff out. The gloss enhancers and liquid wax ingredients will restore the deep shine,

All cloths you use on your car should be 100% cotton and should be washed in the washing machine using only detergent. Do not add any fabric softener to the water.
Dry them in the dryer and DO NOT use a dryer anti-static towel (I think that's what they are called). These dryer towels contain coatings that are transferred to your
car cloths and may cause streaks. If you have ever had your wax streak and you could not figure out why, your dryer towel was probably the culprit. You will remove a
giant ball of cloths and static electricity from your dryer, but will not have mysterious streaks.

These are some of my favorite waxes. There are positive and negative attributes to each one. There is no such thing as the "right" wax. If your car is a daily driver and
is left out in the mud, rain and sun all day, then you may consider Blitz Wax. If on the other hand you have a "garage queen" that sees sunlight on weekends only, you
may consider either the new P21S or Zymol waxes.

BLITZ WAX...A quality Carnauba wax that produces a deep, durable shine and protects against the harmful elements. Contains no cleaners or abrasives. Easy to apply
and easy to remove; yet long lasting. This is my favorite wax for most applications.

HARLY PASTE WAX...Made from the highest grade of Number One Yellow Carnauba, the worlds hardest and finest wax. Relatively easy to apply, a little difficult to
remove. Contains no extenders, cleaners, admixtures or abrasives. This is a purist's wax.

3M SHOW CAR PASTE WAX...Shines and protects new and like new paint finishes, producing a high gloss, durable "wet look" finish. Contains both carnauba wax
and fluropolymers to produce a durable finish. For best results, apply to a small area and immediately buff out; otherwise the wax residue may be somewhat difficult to
remove. May cause slight clouding on certain German finishes.

MEGUIAR #26 HI-TECH YELLOW WAX...A blend of premium yellow Carnauba wax, polymers and other waxes to provide maximum high gloss protection while
enhancing depth of color. Will not streak or chalk on any previously cleaned and polished finishes. Available in paste or liquid. This wax will last on daily driver cars, but
does not give quite the shine of Blitz. May cause clouding on certain German finishes.

MEGUIAR #34 FINAL INSPECTION...A lubricating gloss enhancing spray that adds shine, slickness, depth of color and protection in one step. Great for spot cleaning
and maintaining a high gloss shine between waxings.

MEGUIAR MEDALLION FOR ALL PAINT...The polymer cationic bonding system produces a super slick finish. A blend of paint nutrients and conditioners, that
lasts much longer and reduces static so finish is not a "dirt magnet". Some German finishes have had hydroscopic reactions (clouding) with this product. A great product
for very dusty climates.

ONE GRAND SHOWOFF QUICK DETAILER...A solution of liquid waxes and gloss enhancers to give you car that "just waxed" look. Mist on and buff out for a
brilliant shine between waxings or to remove "water spots" after washing.

P21S CONCOURS LOOK CARNAUBA WAX...A new wax developed to compete directly with Zymol. Produces, in my humble opinion, the best depth of shine of
any wax on the market and lasts a little longer than Zymol. We are not talking quantum leaps, but has a slight edge. Does not offer the pina colada experience. My
favorite wax for a "garage queen" or a frequently waxed car.

SONAX HARD WAX SPRAY...Same hard wax as the liquid in a pump can. Great for wheels, wheel wells and other difficult to reach areas that need a coat of wax.
Does not chalk or turn white.

ZYMOL CARBON /CREME WAX...Carbon formula is for dark colors. A totally abrasive free wax containing nutritive oils, enzymes and pure Carnauba to replenish
both new and older finishes. Can be used on chrome, alloy wheels, rubber or plastic trim and Plexigla

 

IHG is not a wax. It is a glaze. You'd use it to remove fine fine scratches or swirl marks and rejuvinate your paint, not to protect it long term. You'll want to wax your paint after using IHG on it.

 

1.wash 2.polish(if no swirls) or glaze(if you have swirls)3.wax....repeat this process twice a year

 

all that for me

 

Don't feel too special. All that was pulled verbatim from carcareonline.com.

 

just kidding...haha