A few days ago the engine (MIL) light came on. In checking the normal things I found the engine not sounding like it should. It sounds similar to valve/lifter noise. Not encouraging! I don't know how long it's been there as you can't hear it from inside the car even with the window open.

The car has 43k miles and the oil was changed less than 1500 miles ago. I can't be sure it was quiet at that time. I did get an error code (P0328 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too High) which I believe is unrelated(?) I don't know that it will help but I've uploaded a sound recording in two file formats:

http://abarnyard.com/temp/audi/Audi-3.mp3

http://abarnyard.com/temp/audi/Audi-3a.wav

Any thoughts or advise before taking it into Audi (without warrantee) appreciated!

Thanks...

 

Not a clatter, more like a clicking and it sounds like 2 or 4 of your valves smashing against a piston or the head. As far as I'm concerned, Audi's 1.8T is kinda loud, but there's definately something wrong with yours. This would be what's called knock, and it is definately what your CEL (Check Engine Light) is lit up for. Good luck.. doesn't always mean your engine is ruined if you get it in the shop right away.. could be something dumb like a plug or a wire went out and your running on only 3 and not 4 cylinders.. all the more reason to get it checked ASAP before something really bad happens.

 

Just My Two cents...

I am new to the A4 myself (Just bought it this weekend), BUT my last Audi made a similar noise which arose from a blocked oil passage to the Cyl Head and it was the tappets slapping around.

I ran a few bottles of engine flush through, and switched to a slightly heavier weight synthetic oil, and the noise went away. So even though you just had the oil changed recently, I would do it again just to be sure. An engine never hates new oil.

Cheers
Martin.

 

Thanks to both. I took it in because timing didn't allow me to mess with it. They gave me a BS story regarding valve adjustment (yea, right), changed the oil, tested the knock sensor circuit, reset it, and all seems fine. $300 +/-. I can't complain except I'd like to know the total truth.

BTW, I do have the bentley manual (Digital) so I always do a bit of homework even when I don't do my own repairs.

 

I am having this same problem, but does it make a weird sound when you accelerate and or let go of the gas it makes a IDK how else to describe it but a pencil in a high speed fan? Not sure if that was the best description for that.

I ran a diag a few times got similar but new results on n off every time.

Some of these below sometimes won't show up like the (P0411 or P0420)

P0328 - Powertrain
Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input
(Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

P0420 - Powertrain
Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P0411 - Powertrain
Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected

P0333 - Powertrain
Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input
(Bank 2)

I can't keep up with my car and the repairs. I've spent over 7 grand, over the 2 years I've had my '02 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8T. I've had transmission failure so I had it rebuilt. Timing belt and water pump went out as I was driving the dealer lied to me saying he just changed it. Had it repaired along with some engine parts not sure exactly what engine parts were put in I'd have to go over the sheet the mechanic wrote on, that all came out to be $2,800.

So when the car was ready he mentioned to me that there's one problem he said that there wasn't enough air going through the engine or whatever that he'd need a special tool Audi only has to repair it. Making my OIL gauge beep like crazy even though I had an oil change over n over again.

It's going on another year with this noise and I'm afraid it's too late and just now noticing these codes off my diagnostic machine. I think checking the knock sensor first before putting engine flush into my car and then reset it to save a little bit of money but if it needs it I'll get it flushed. The oil was changed from regular to synthetic oil after a couple weeks from the timing belt and water pump/engine parts repair.

What cost $300 to repair your car is the real question. Synthetic Oil only cost $6-9 a quart only need about 6 or 7 right? A new knock sensor cost $45-70. You only tested the knock sensor circuit so that was free. Or did you take it to someone to check it out or have something done that was an extra $250+?

 

Oh I just realized you said you took it in sorry.
So valve adjustment was really the problem?

You can do it yourself for about $50 for the gaskets and about an hour of your time.
if the valve cover gaskets have been replaced within the last 50000 miles, you likely
won't have to buy new gaskets either.

Gaskets can sometimes be reusable too. I think I just answered my similar problem
on here thanks for posting this Restorer, been fighting this for a year or so now.

 

Just a note, you are responding to a 2 year old thread, so asking the OP questions is probably a waste of time.

You are all over the map. Slow down and address one problem at a time.

1) You need to sit down with a mechanic and itemize the issues. Some sound related, some don't, but you have a mess on your hands. Audi's are very high tech and when not maintained properly, will bite your pocket book in a high tech manner.

2) You may need to find someone else to work on the car. A good independent VAG mech is your best bet. your current shop has found someone who is not familiar with the A4 and taking you for a ride.

3) Sounds like the "clattering" could be as simple as the knock sensor. The knock sensor reatards the timing to prevent predetonation or pinging. Replace it before you do anything else. Hopefully you have not damaged the engine which is what happened with prolonged driving with predetonation.

4) You need just shy of 5 quarts of oil in the 1.8. I believe the actual number is 4.7 quarts. You should fill with 4.5 and adjust using the dipstick. Do not overfill and always use synthetic. If the shop you are using put regular oil in, they are again demonstrating their lack of desire to maintain your A4 properly.

5) FYI, If your timing belt broke, the other parts that were replaced were probably valves. What happens then the belt breaks is your valves and pistons hit each other. The valves usually come out on the worse end of this.

6) FYI, have no idea what the mechnic means by "not enough air" and "special tool". This may be related to the SAI fault in your codes. And, I can't imagine this would have anything to do with your oil.

7) FYI, if your oil gage beeping. Is this the Red Oil Can light? If so, you probably have sludge and all the oil changes in the world won't cure it.