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HELP! 03 a4 quattro 1.8t red oil light problems!

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Old Apr 27, 2013 | 11:58 AM
  #1  
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Default HELP! 03 a4 quattro 1.8t red oil light problems!

I have issues with the red oil light flashing in my car! It only comes on when I accelerate, and its not every time I accelerate, its only sometimes. I just replaced the oil level sensor and the beeping has reduced to only once when I accelerate and then it wont come back on till after a few miles of driving. The car's oil level is fine, there are no oil leaks, it runs great! I have replaced oil pump, pick up tube, oil level and pressure sensor ( I will say I bought the oil level sensor used), I only use liqui moly in my car but I can't seem to get down to the root of the issue! I'm not sure if its worth buying a new level sensor cause im not 100% sure that's the root of the problem. Any advice or personal experiences will help!!!! Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 04:00 AM
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I hear taps...

Seriously, you need to stop driving the car until you figure it out. You are likely tearing something up.

The RED oil light deals with pressure, not low level. The YELLOW one deals with low level or the sensor being bad, so that was not your issue.

RED oil light usually means one of 3 things:

1) Oil pressure sensor is bad. I doubt this is the case since it is only under acceleration.
2) Oil pump is bad and not providing the pressure necessary to circular oil and protect your engine.
3) Oil screen is clogged (common) or some other passage is blocked indicating sludge.

You can try the first one and see if there is any change, and then you are going to have to drop the oil pan which involves dropping the front subframe.

Again, you need to stop driving before you really hurt something.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 03:22 AM
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Oil pump has been replaced along with pick up tube, and oil pressure sensor as well. Been driving the car for more than 2 months and if oil pressure was the issue, my engine would've messed up a long time ago. I believe my issue is electrical. A few days ago my sunroof started acting like it wanted to open, when it was shut. I might look into somewhere else being clogged, but again I doubt it. Thanks for your reply!

Originally Posted by lyleswk
I hear taps...

Seriously, you need to stop driving the car until you figure it out. You are likely tearing something up.

The RED oil light deals with pressure, not low level. The YELLOW one deals with low level or the sensor being bad, so that was not your issue.

RED oil light usually means one of 3 things:

1) Oil pressure sensor is bad. I doubt this is the case since it is only under acceleration.
2) Oil pump is bad and not providing the pressure necessary to circular oil and protect your engine.
3) Oil screen is clogged (common) or some other passage is blocked indicating sludge.

You can try the first one and see if there is any change, and then you are going to have to drop the oil pan which involves dropping the front subframe.

Again, you need to stop driving before you really hurt something.
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Old May 6, 2013 | 03:25 AM
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When the oil pan was dropped I was actually surprised that there was no sludge or any crap in there since sludge is a notorious issue in these cars!!



Originally Posted by lyleswk
I hear taps...

Seriously, you need to stop driving the car until you figure it out. You are likely tearing something up.

The RED oil light deals with pressure, not low level. The YELLOW one deals with low level or the sensor being bad, so that was not your issue.

RED oil light usually means one of 3 things:

1) Oil pressure sensor is bad. I doubt this is the case since it is only under acceleration.
2) Oil pump is bad and not providing the pressure necessary to circular oil and protect your engine.
3) Oil screen is clogged (common) or some other passage is blocked indicating sludge.

You can try the first one and see if there is any change, and then you are going to have to drop the oil pan which involves dropping the front subframe.

Again, you need to stop driving before you really hurt something.
Reply
Old May 6, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Yet to see one ever not be real low oil pressure, its a pretty smart system, not just oops im low at 0 turn on the light, its more like, at a certain rpm there should be a certain pressure. if not light on. Probably engines just all worn out at this point, did you have sombody actually inspect bearings when the pan was off? If i dont see sludge, i will just put a new oil pump and new rod bearings in and it usually has a good outcome.

Last edited by Prospeeder; May 6, 2013 at 12:42 PM.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 12:28 PM
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When oil pan was dropped bearings were inspected and oil pump replaced. I'm starting to lean towards some blockage somewhere along the engine, perhaps a tube or something. It definitely comes on at a low rpm, specifically when I'm switching to second gear. Gonna try and see if I can get the oil pressure tested to be real sure about it. That low oil light is starting to get to me!!

Originally Posted by Prospeeder
Yet to see one ever not be real low oil pressure, its a pretty smart system, not just oops im low at 0 turn on the light, its more like, at a certain rpm there should be a certain pressure. if not light on. Probably engines just all worn out at this point, did you have sombody actually inspect bearings when the pan was off? If i dont see sludge, i will just put a new oil pump and new rod bearings in and it usually has a good outcome.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 05:58 PM
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he checked every rod bearing? most people will just check one, i used to only just check one, untill i just checked one, looked fine, was going to do rod bearings anyway, got to the very last one and bam the bearing had actually spun slightly and was badly beaten up. whoops i check them all now.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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You know sometimes I wish I was able to do my own car repairs. That way I won't be fooled into "yeah I did this and that" but they really didn't. I'll have him replace every rod bearing this week. Anything else you think he should check for when he does that? Maybe that will also have something to do with this noise the car makes when switching gears, it's like something is vibrating when I accelerate. Btw where do you buy your audi parts from? I prefer to get them directly from Audi but sometimes I feel like they lick your pocket just cause of the brand...

Originally Posted by Prospeeder
he checked every rod bearing? most people will just check one, i used to only just check one, untill i just checked one, looked fine, was going to do rod bearings anyway, got to the very last one and bam the bearing had actually spun slightly and was badly beaten up. whoops i check them all now.
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Old May 7, 2013 | 07:00 PM
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TYPOOOO pick your pocket ******OMG LOL


Originally Posted by Prospeeder
he checked every rod bearing? most people will just check one, i used to only just check one, untill i just checked one, looked fine, was going to do rod bearings anyway, got to the very last one and bam the bearing had actually spun slightly and was badly beaten up. whoops i check them all now.
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Old May 8, 2013 | 09:39 AM
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Do you think replacing the Pcv valve, Crank case breather connector and hose is a good idea? I've been told the pcv valve and the breather hose get sludge in them which may cause oil pressure problems as well. It's inexpensive to replace I thought I might as well do that while they replace the rod bearings.,
Originally Posted by Prospeeder
he checked every rod bearing? most people will just check one, i used to only just check one, untill i just checked one, looked fine, was going to do rod bearings anyway, got to the very last one and bam the bearing had actually spun slightly and was badly beaten up. whoops i check them all now.
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