I spent some time researching this CEL light on for code P0011 "Bank 1 intake, retard setpoint not reached"
I got this code after changing the timing belt on my 1.8T 2005 Cabrio. I had actually put a new head on, so I had removed both camshafts and the camshaft timing tensioner. Basically the code means that the computer thinks the intake cam is not synced properly with the crankshaft.
The common wisdom was to check the camshaft tensioner, the solenoid that adjusts it, the camshaft position sensor at the front of the intake cam and generally make sure the timing belt was spot on. Because of the 1.8T sludge issue, there were also suggestions that lack of oil pressure can cause the cam tensioner to malfunction. I noticed that for many posters, the code had occurred after changing the timing belt. It turns out, that this code will also trigger if your timing belt tensioner is not adjusted properly. In my case, I never fully understood exactly in what sequence the 8mm gap should be set. Anyway, I went back in and took the top timing belt cover off and cranked the tensioner back to be compressed using the hex hole. Then I loosened the nut and rotated that pie shaped cam thing until I got the 8mm gap. (It's all rather weird because that gap soon disappears as the tensioner expands.)
After tightening everything back up, the engine light went off immediately.
Hopefully this might save someone from having to do the horrible drop-oil-pan routine.
Mark

 

I'm going to try this.

 

I'm not sure what the setting was like on my tensioner because I didn't fully understand how to get that 8mm gap.
I suspect it wasn't right before I adjusted it. On other engines you just bolt the tensioner in, pull out the pin to release it and you're done.
Anyway, it's been a while so I no longer remember the specifics of the pie shaped cam thingy.

 

Can someone please explain the 8mm gap and also what exactly is the " pie shaped cam thing "

 

Hi DylanM,
Unfortunately I can't easily read my Bentley manual because it's on an old computer that's not set up anymore, but I think this is how it works:
Before you bolt the tensioner down tight, its position can be adjusted to provide more or less tension. This is accomplished by having it attach via a pie-shaped cam. As you rotate the cam, the tensioner gets closer or father away from the chain. So, you're supposed to rotate the cam until you get an 8mm gap between ??? (and here I'm going to be completely useless because I don't have the manual diagram to know where it's measured!) Anyway, you set the gap and then tighten the tensioner fully down. That's the gist of it. I guess if you have too much slop or have it too tight, then the timing is fractionally off.