Dilemma...I'm running (3) JL 10 inch W0's, with an Xtant Class D Monoblock 350 watt amp. The subs are rated to handle 125-250 watts of power at 4 ohms. I want a new amp to give more juice to the subs because clearly, it is not enough for me right now. I have three options as of now. I can buy a Hifonics 600 watt, model number HIFONICS BX605, or a Kenwood KAC-8152D MONOblock amplifier, rated at 1100 watts of output, or an Orion 600D monoblock amp. All but the Kenwood deliver 600 watts at 1 ohm. Question I have for you guys is, firstly, the Orion is most expensive, and then the Kenwood, and then the Hifonics being the cheapest. Which do you think I should go with, and my biggest concern is really, am I going to run into problems, dimming headlights, or even worse, blowing my alternator, or having to get a new battery. As of now, I'm at 40,000 miles with the same battery I've had since day one. Not sure what I should go with...opinions?

Jonathan

 

Went I was in my car audio phase a decade ago the amps back then were current output monsters compared to most of the amps today.

With your setup you want as much current (juice) you can fire at the subs. Forget about the power ratings and look at the current ratings.

An oldschool 100W Orion HCCA could take on the job you have specified and it would pound the crap out of your ears.

Depending on the amount of current draw you are expecting I would also suggest you look at your alternator to make sure it can do the job. I have blown a few in my lifetime from pushing it too hard.

Your headlights/dashlights will blink when you tap out your alternator and now draw on battery power when driving. That is not a good situation to be in.

I suggest you check your alternator output and upgrade the alternator if required. Also look into a seperate battery isolator/regulator and install a secondary Optima battery and use that exclusively for the car audio.

 

battery, etc.

 

Look at the max current ratings of all your amplifiers and add it all up. That is the max current draw the amps will pull at max volume.

My McIntosh MC431 is 4x100W but rated @ 67A at rated power.

SIXTY SEVEN AMPS!!

I had two of them running in my Explorer and I burned out my alternator and drained the battery part way a few months after the installation. I have since removed one and bridged the rear channels to run my two 10" subs. Even now if I push the amp my headlights flicker a bit.

As I said before, drop the power rating of the amp as it's all hype. You can go buy a Best Buy specail that is rated at 5000W of power but what else? That might be at 14.4V, 5% THD, etc.

Old HiFonics used to be good amps and I don't know about the new ones. If you want pure power go on eBay and serch for an oldschool amp back in the day. HiFonics, Phoenix Gold, Linear Power, Orion, Soundstream... all made in the USA and were built like tanks and did the job.

Than around 1998-1999 autosound went from high current to glamour and things haven't been the same since.

Now about the subs... you have to look at the efficientcy of the unit before you look at the power handling abilities.

A sub rated at 94db vs one at 80db will play louder at the same volume level as it is more efficient. The power rating you see is what is can handle before you blow it up, and honestly you should go deaf before you blow up most of the better subs out there these days... unless you send it a distorted signal and you'll damage it for sure.

 

MC is giving you the right goods. Be careful not to get sucked into the my amp has more watts than yours gimic. The THD (total harmonic distortion) plays a huge factor in the clean delivery of power. For a sub amp ideally you want class D power and there are lots of those out there depending on what you want to spend.

Another idea is to buy a power capacitor. That will store power between bass strikes so that the immediate draw on the cars electrical system is minimized. A 1 farad cap is likely enough for the sub amp.

 

Alpine 7909L -> 2 Audiocontrol EQT's -> McIntosh MC431m -> DynAudio System 340 & 2 Image Dynamics IDQ 10's

All wiring is Straightwire Rhapsody interconnects and speaker wire.

 

I will have to check that out one of these days !

 

If it blows up with you in it I am not repsonsible!

 

LOL ... I aint driving in it, just park it and lemme hear the system.

 

Not with the amount of power you're planning to run anyway. German cars have well made alternators. A4's alternator will easily handle the job.