Is this what the end of the fuel rail should look like?
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This is bizarre...
Do you recall if there was a "relief valve" in the end when you removed the black cap (following APR's instructions)? If there wasn't one to begin with, that is strange (since mine has something there). Also, was there no fuel inside the rail when you changed the injectors (mine flowed out when I removed the injector an dhad the opening pointing down). The fuel just seemed to keep coming out of mine. And as I mentioned before, when I pressed the relief valve with a screw driver, there was no release of pressure/fuel. After the injectors were swapped, I installed the rail, then the wiring plugs, screwed it down and was done. I made sure no lines had come loose and that all connections looked the same (secure).
But if there is no fuel inside the rail after cranking it over, that could be a sign of something else that is wrong - which would be really bizarre.
Contact your MTM dealer as well.
Did the ECU install go ok?
But if there is no fuel inside the rail after cranking it over, that could be a sign of something else that is wrong - which would be really bizarre.
Contact your MTM dealer as well.
Did the ECU install go ok?
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Yea the ecu seemed to go fine...
the fuel rail must have had something in it before because I was able to bleed it as per APR's instructions. Swapped the injectors and put everything back together and the car wouldn't start. The first suggestion I got was to try to bleed the fuel rail again, so I tried and got no fuel coming out. I looked closer and noticed there was nothing there to press on. I didn't look before because I had no trouble bleeding it, it was easy. I don't understand how it could have come out or broken.
i'm just trying to confirm the rail is damaged before I try to buy a new one.
i'm just trying to confirm the rail is damaged before I try to buy a new one.
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Based on my experience...
It didn't seem that you really had to bleed the rail - only release the pressure. Mine had no pressure, did yours? So you were actually able to press on the relief valve with a screwdriver? Did you replace the black cap after doing this? If not, I wonder if it could have come out for some reason. This is too wierd. I only removed the black cap at the end and pressed on the relief valve (getting nothing) and then replaced the black cap and resumed the proceedure to remove the rail and injectors... etc. And as I have mentioned, my rail had fuel inside when I changed the injectors and seemed to keep flowing out (onto a rag and then into a container, until I just kept the rail upside down and change each injector one at a time).
You sure the wiring didn't get mixed up? Definitely call the MTM dealer or JHM (Joe Hoppen).
If the valve is missing, but the cap is on, I'm not sure if it would still work or not. This is very strange, that it would just fall out (or in). Not sure what else to suggest though. Sounds like you are being very thorough and you also followed the instuctions fine.
You sure the wiring didn't get mixed up? Definitely call the MTM dealer or JHM (Joe Hoppen).
If the valve is missing, but the cap is on, I'm not sure if it would still work or not. This is very strange, that it would just fall out (or in). Not sure what else to suggest though. Sounds like you are being very thorough and you also followed the instuctions fine.
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Prior to swapping the injectors, I pressed a flat head screwdriver into the end of the rail
and fuel came out for a while onto a rag. after that some more fuel came out after i pulled the injectors out. after putting the new injectors in, i reconnected everything, put the black cap back on, and tried starting the engine.
i need to know if the engine should still start if only the cap is on with no valve. i guess i'll try calling Hoppen. Thanks for your suggestions so far.
i need to know if the engine should still start if only the cap is on with no valve. i guess i'll try calling Hoppen. Thanks for your suggestions so far.
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ok. So there was a relief valve of some sort then...
And you left the black cap for this off until you were finished. Hmmmm, I wonder if that valve disappeared? Still, w/o that valve and the cap on, I can't see why it would have a problem working if it is sealed off. The thing is now, there is no fuel in the rail, correct? And nothing coming out of that valve either? And the rail is empty, even after trying to start it, right? If yes, there has to be a reason why the fuel is not being pumped into it. I could only think to check all the hoses/connections and then (if I were a tech) check the rest of the fuel line, pump,... etc. Sounds fuel related at the moment. All electrical sounds plugged in.
Do you have a nice dealer? Maybe you can take it there. How about a local tuner?
Do you have a nice dealer? Maybe you can take it there. How about a local tuner?
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Just got the car started
All that time thinking it was the injectors and fuel rail, it was the ECU. Called Hoppen, they told me that the chip comes loose during shipping, and since I had no EPC or check engine light, thats probably what it is. They were right, cars fine now. Thanks for your help.
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Yea!
See, I was on the right track with ECU ; ) Just didn't think that the actual chip would be it. So what was the fix with it then? Did you have to remove the ECU again and actually open it up (internallly) and press the chip down?
So I guess w/o the ECU working, no fuel to the rail?
So I guess w/o the ECU working, no fuel to the rail?
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Yea thats exactly it, had to open up ECU and push the chip onto the motherboard, one side was up
a little bit. yea it looks that way, no ecu no fuel to rail, but the rail did bleed earlier with the ecu in the same condition, so i dunno.