Rest assured I'll name the dealer and the sales rep so that everyone here knows to avoid them in the future if things don't work out.

- that's what the guy said.

 

not at all, but you have to go in prepared and make sure you check and double check. It's big money your laying out and the the salesperson should be working for you. If the deal is not right pull out and dispute your deposit. All car models have thier questionable dealers, don't let them take advantage of you.

 

Yes, I got that. that's why I quoted it in my reply.

Naming someone/place that one feels has wronged them by acting dishonestly/dishonorably does not equate to "blasting" someone in my book... Maybe I mistook your meaning by that term. In an internet forum setting, I take that to mean derogatorily bashing someone/place with malicious intent. That in my world, is inappropriate and misguided at best.

When he said that he would "name" them, I took it to mean that he would provide information. Whether one chooses to take his information under advisement or dismiss it in whole or in part is certainly ones prerogative.

Best regards

 

I was under the impression that S-Line+ implied Sports Package as it clearly states it on the order guide. When I negotiated a price, this is what I was under the impression I was buying. It's not clear to me that Audi will build a car in the current configuration (S-Line+ w/o PP).

They made a mistake on the configuration, I pointed it out to them, and they wanted more money.

I gave the dealer the option to sell it to me on the price we negotiated or to return my deposit. That was 4 days ago and they have yet to get back to me.

I would be happy to buy from another dealer who knew their product and I felt I could trust and I would be happy to pay more.

I haven't named any names (the dealer or rep), so no reputations have been smeared. I would argue that this is taking the high road.

@QUA77R0 Thanks for the tip. I'll give them a call if this doesn't work out.

 

I somehow managed to miss that whole exchange between @QUA77R0 and @jperryrocks.

@jperryrocks, I don't know if you've heard of this site, it's called http://www.yelp.com. It's whole premise is based on people giving honest feedback on a business establishment. That's what I intend to do, provide a review of my experience and rate them accordingly.

It's not "revenge on the internet", it's sharing your experience good or bad and thus far it's been bad. There's still hope to turn it around and I'm leaving the door open for this dealership to do so.

 

You have 2 choices as I see them.

1) Have a friend-lawyer call the dealership and get your deposit back.

2) You can call AoA and have them back you up.. after all you have a copy of the deal.

If you're going to lose your deposit... then get a cheapie lawyer that will take your deposit as payment... think of it this way.. if you're going to lose your $600.. who would you rather have take it.. the lawyer or the dealership?

Btw.. in 2009, I bought a 2009 A4 P+ with Nav. MSRP $40,900. I negotiated a price of $36,900 on it. About 9-10% off MSRP. The salesperson hated me and was a dick, and never returned any of my calls after I bought the car. And that's perfectly fine with me... because I didn't live in that area and would never go to that dealership again. But I got a great price on my car and thats all I was concerned with. And I got the Blue Book "Excellent" condition price on my trade-in BMW.

 

...Oh that was just a friendly discussion

...And I seriously doubt that you will "lose" your security deposit. Dealerships may be independent from the manufacturer but they know who butters their bread... Pissing off AoA wouldn't be worth the potential repercussions to vehicle allotments, priority build dates, etc.

 

Let me say a few words about automobile pricing in the US. This is the only consumer product where sellers are allowed to take advantage of buyers by keeping secret the details of each sale. If I want to buy shares of Audi (by buying VOW.DE stock) I can find out instantly how much, how many, and where shares are trading. Buying or selling, I get the market price, plus a disclosed premium for the market makers. I don't see why people cannot truthfully tell about their experience at a dealer. I was treated $ 5,000 better in Riverside that at a dealer near my home. I would certainly give Walter's first chance at a deal when I needed a car on their roster.

The manufacturers and the dealers keep secret the actual final price paid by the dealer for the car. To avoid violations of franchise and anti-trust laws distributors set invoice prices that are the same for all dealers. During the transaction the dealer actually sends that amount of money to the distributor. Everyone knows this amount. It is accurately reported on the Internet.

Now the differences between dealers change the amount of money the dealer actually pays for the car. One way is the payment Audi makes to have the dealer look like it does. Another way is sales incentives in the form of cash to the dealer called "trunk money." There is factory holdback. This is a percentage the factory keeps until the unit is reported sold. I know Audi claims it has no holdback. It is true, they don't pay it. Volkswagen does. There are advertising incentives and cooperation that result in fat checks flying over the transom. There are incentives to train dealer personnel. All these work to reduce the actual amount paid per unit. Dealers that sell more, pay less.

One of my favorite gimmicks dealers use is the so-called "Destination Charge" shown on the sticker. The invoice price includes transportation and marine insurance from the factory in Germany to the dealer. It is not a separate line item. It is just included in the price of the vehicle. (when not included dealers would arrange their own transport, and that was a fiasco.) It really is a Charge at Destination. The dealer takes it, folds it over, and puts it in his pocket. It is not even used to calculate the commission paid to the salesmen.

Who knows what the dealer pays? In most stores, only the dealer himself. Very large groups might have a single additional employee that knows.

At $ 2,600 under invoice the dealer still makes money. Do not fall for the crybaby tactic of the salesman's starving wife and kids. He is not your friend, you will never hang out, play golf, or will he lend you his lawn mower.

The dealer is not inclined to give you such a deal because he sells a lot of units for a lot more. If you can take one off the lot, that is an orphan because of too much or too little equipment, or Elephant booger green metallic you can grind lower. Do you need a salesman? For people reading this, no. So why pay him? Make an appointment with the sales manager and speak to no one else except the coffee girl at the dealer. If you want a rare or very limited, or desirable car, be prepared to pay more. These cars are where the dealer makes bank.

If you hit him at the end of a sales period (10 to 30 days typically) and he needs to chalk up one more, you can do better. If you want to order a specific equipment roster, use the fax machine and invite bidding. 300 odd dealers to pick from.

If you want to know how to artfully deal, get one of Herb Cohen's books and you will find yourself saving a ton of cash.

 

moviela,

That my friend was beautifully worded. Thanks!

The only thing I would add is that the Internet Sales Manager (usually the same person as the Fleet Sales Manager) will be the best guy to target. They know that many people looking off/on the internet are more educated about the process than the random sucker who just walks onto the lot.

I'm not sure I want to grind lower on an elephant booger whether it has a rare metallic space doodoo inside or not.... maybe if they give a discount on some new space age sealant....hehehe

 

my hero!