I have a 2018 Audi a4 premium plus with a a b&o sound system I think I burnt my amp because there is no sound comeing from my speakers every now and then I hear a faint clicking noise can I add an external amp to fix the problem

 

As all B9.0 use the MIB2 infotainment system, which uses optical ring (MOST) for the transfer of audio source between units, you're going to find that a more complicated prospect than normal. There are MOST to RCA bridges out there, but not sure which if any are confirmed to work with a B9.0 MIB2 system. MIB2 (B9.0) / MIB3 (B9.5) are MOST150, not the older MOST25 used in MMI 2G and 3G. The J525 sound system control module (the "amp") for B&O also implements a number of other functions besides being just a stack of amp channels. Not sure how the J794 will take to the J525 going awol.

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/my-...grade.9206297/
If you go down to the AFTERMARKET AMP (FENDER VERSION) section, you see him discussing the problems of replacing the stock amp in an optical ring MIB2 environment. So he just used the speaker level outputs of the factory amp to feed his aftermarket config. Which you don't have the option of. But note where he discusses the amp outputs on the J794 itself. This is the situation with the standard sound system, where there is no external amp. Since you're effectively eliminating the B&O aspect of the system removing the stock B&O amp, you might as well reconfigure the J794 as standard sound system, then you can use the speaker level outputs on the J794 to feed an aftermarket system. The standard sound system has 6 amp outputs, "four corners", dash center channel, and subwoofer. So you're still stuck with the Audi crossover configuration. There's no line-level outputs in MIB2. And the B&O speaker config uses 16 channels, so you're going to need a lot of aftermarket amp to drive the system.

The stock B9.0 B&O amp comes in four versions according to the parts catalog, but no explanation of which is which or why:
8W0 035 223
8W0 035 223 A
8W0 035 223 B
8W0 035 465
You'd have to confirm which you have. But a used one of those seems a lot more direct and quick solution - https://www.ebay.com/itm/225152370440 But it'll still require a one hour labor bill at the dealership to do the 10 minute job of resetting component protection.

 

sighs looks like I got the short end of the stick but there is a minor detail that I forgot to mention not sure how much difference its ganna make things but every now and then music will play from the speakers not for long tho then it cuts out and back to silence

 

Have you done a scan for DTCs to see what is being reported by the vehicle already as issues? The simple test would be an amp swap and see if issue goes away. But short of having access to one to swap for a test, you'd have to try and analyze the situation to determine a most likely source of issue. If the amp is going offline due to power or connection issue, or a ring problem, you should have comms errors in the scan. Or maybe you just have speaker output errors. But it's probably just a flaky amp. I don't know if there are resources out there for repairs of the B9.0 B&O amp, like there have been for the B8 era B&O amp (often trashed by water intrusion). Actually, you might check back there, make sure it is dry. Maybe unplug and replug the connector, in case something is just not contacting cleanly (corrosion build up, etc). There's just a whole world of possible problem causes.

 

It's probably not fried if it occasionally works. Most likely a loose wire or bad connection somewhere.

 

so update guys so I was just messsing around and checking everything making sure it was in tight if any the fuses were blown and still nothing but I finally took the harness that’s plug into the amp and kept on wiggling it and sound came out but I couldn’t figure out what could be the problem because they were so many wires so finally I said **** it and broke some of the plastic off and seen right at the very end of all the wires there kinda loose and not in the pins part all the way what’s a simple way to fix it soldering the wires might be a lil difficult

 

Hello, please consider my problem, even if its not exactly the same, its a related issue. In my 2014 allroad premium., I was having issues charging my phone in the cigarette lighter. I blew a fuse when I used a "fast" charger. I replaced theat which was a 5a fuse. After researching discovered its best to use the one under that console for heavier draw..Since i had a 500w inverter, and i like using my Garmin GPS sometimes, (car has no nav) i plugged that in there with the wall phone charger there. The inverter didnt seem to work, so I went in search of that fuse (a 20a fuse). It was ok. Discontinued the inverter idea. A day later I turned on my radio and no sound. Found same issues in a few posts here. Radio seeks and lists channels etc , the cd appears to play ok, neither has any sound though. I have the premium, no MMI, but I tried hitting a few buttons at the same time to reset...nothing changed. I scrolled through and saw the ability to clear computer 1 and computer 2 whatever they are....still no sound. I read on this thread about disconnecting and reconnecting the harness at the amp, but .....can someone tell me how to unplug the thing? Oh and BTW now the dash only alternates between mph and one other thing, the other display of other things are gone now. Can I have a car audio shop take care of this? I really seriously dislike my Stealership and I have 100k+miles and out of coverage anyhow.
Thank you for your time and consideration.

 

You could try a regular car audio shop but I very much doubt they could help you. Current Audi audio systems seem to be integrated into the whole vehicle communications and computer network. Your issue may have started as just a charger one but has since spread to other systems. An independent auto-electrician with Audi expertise might work but if they can't help then I expect the dealer will be it.

 

Thanks for your quick reply! Do the members have any recommendations for independent shops in the Finger Lakes NY area that could be an alternative to start with? Such exorbitant labor prices and scam upselling at the dealership and its not very close by either, uggg. Dont even make me tell how badly I was scammed on this car purchase.

 

If you believe you see a terminal pin that's backed out of the connector, I'd say just disassemble the connector and reinsert the pin.
Squeeze the end of the cover cap opposite the wires to lift it out and remove the cap.



Then the set of locks for the various pins depend on the pin in question.