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The keyless entry sensor of the driver's door stopped working recently. The OEM part is: 8w0927753 and a decent replacement would be the VEMO V10850063.
In Canadian $, the original part is $ 310.00, I had ordered the VEMO from Rock Auto for $ 58.00 Can for a total of $61.00 US including shipping and Canadian taxes, but they just cancelled my order because they say they cannot get the part anymore.
FCP EURO claim they have the VEMO in stock, but the price is $61.99 US + $45.00 US for shipping plus customs charges on top (I suppose).
On Amazon and EBay, there are several similar items for very cheap.
Did someone got any luck from ordering the part from Amazon or Ebay and recommend one of them? Thanks!
Last edited by Turbo Freak; Apr 13, 2026 at 01:51 PM.
Are you quite sure it's a sensor problem and not a broken wire issue - the broken wire problem and solution has been documented by multiple folks on different Audi forums.
Are you quite sure it's a sensor problem and not a broken wire issue - the broken wire problem and solution has been documented by multiple folks on different Audi forums.
Could be a broken wire as well. I suppose I could try to swap the sensor with the rear door to see if the problem follows the sensor.
Broken wires may be a problem; but, I think the more common problem may be corrosion at the electrical connector. Remove the sensor and examine the connector and clean with contact cleaner. Light burnishing will help to remove stubborn corrosion. If you can get the contacts back into good shape packing the connector with silicone / dielectric grease will help seal the connector from future corrosion problems; but, dielectric grease is an insulator so it does not improve the connection if the connection is still bad. MG Chemicals makes a number of greases which are conductive greases which improve the electrical connection. There is also the relatively cheap Gardner Bender Ox Gard connection enhancing grease available at Canadian Tire for cheap.
For $6 worth of grease I would definitely pull the sensor out, clean it up and grease it and see if that fixes the problem. If there are any broken wires you should be able to spot them while doing this.
For $6 worth of grease I would definitely pull the sensor out, clean it up and grease it and see if that fixes the problem. If there are any broken wires you should be able to spot them while doing this.
Thanks for the tip, I found some Permatex dielectric grease available at Home Hardware near my place. Will buy it to see if it helps. I tried removing the plastic trim piece on the handle: not easy. From the videos I saw, the broken wire seems to be inside the door requiring to remove the door trim panel from inside the car. Always worried to break something when taking apart trim panels…
Last edited by Turbo Freak; Apr 15, 2026 at 07:25 AM.
Well, I swapped the rear door sensor with the front door and applied dielectric grease on the connector and the problem remained. I took the door apart and looked for a broken wire going to the sensor, but the wires are fine.
What else could be wrong? Could the car computer have disabled this door sensor if it had once detected an error? Maybe resetting the fault would clear it a re-enable the sensor?
I have an ODBeleven dongle, but the Android phone I was using with it is too old now for the latest version of ODBeleven….
The first thing with an electrical issue is always scan for the codes to tell you want the car is complaining about. You've confirm the other three doors work correctly for locking and unlocking, and only the driver's door is not operating as expected?
The first thing with an electrical issue is always scan for the codes to tell you want the car is complaining about. You've confirm the other three doors work correctly for locking and unlocking, and only the driver's door is not operating as expected?
Yes, the other 3 doors are working properly. I would need to borrow an Android phone to be able to use my OBDeleven dongle to scan for the error codes….
Each of the four sensors has a brown wire on pin 1 that goes to chassis ground, and a black wire on pin 2 that goes to the J393 control module in the left rear. In all four cases, that black wire changes color at the door<>body pass-through connector. The brown wire also passes through the pass-through, but stays brown on the body side.
I'd start by unplugging the 20-pin black on the J393 and measuring resistance from the relevant pin on the 20-pin to the pin 2 on the sensor connector. The resistance from 20-pin connector pin to 2-pin connector pin should be very low, a few Ω at most. More so, it should be consistent between each sensor.
And then measuring voltage from a 12V presence to the pin 1 on the sensor connector. Since the pin 1 is a connection to chassis ground, the voltage between it and any 12V location (powered fuse test pad, jump start post, etc) should measure 12V. If not, there's some issue with the wire from pin 1 to the body chassis. You could see if you can get a resistance measurement from pin 1 to chassis metal too. It should also be a few Ω at most.
On the 20-pin black on the J393:
pin 12 - violet/blue to rear right door
pin 13 - red/yellow to rear left door
pin 14 - violet to front right door
pin 15 - white/red to front left door
(apparently the wire colors could be "whatever they were using that day", rather than what they bothered documenting)
Audi Recreates Crazy-Looking Speed Record Breaker From 1935
Slideshow: Audi has recreated one of the wildest machines of the pre-war speed-record era, reviving a streamlined V16 racer that originally exceeded 200 mph in 1935.
Keyless entry sensor
