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Still learning this forum... Posting I a couple different sections. Someone suggested I move to this A6/C7 in hopes of getting advice.
I posted this in the Q7 forum and did not get much interest. Thought I would try here. Any advice will be appreciated. Steve
Starting a new thread on this project. Got a 2011 Q7 for very cheap that was throwing theP0016 code (Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor).... Did my research etc and decided to under take the project. Please note, I'm not a mechanic. I enjoy mechanical stuff. I've rebuilt two Porsche 356/912 engines and other dumb repairs on an 89 Jag xjs and a couple mg's. I'm a general contractor with a lift we use to maintain our pickup trucks (brakes, oil etc.). The car ran ok, the p.o. parked he car after he had it diagnosed at the dealer. 69K on the odometer. They quoted $8k for the repairs. I only drove it a dozen or so times. The death chain rattle was within the 1-2 seconds upon start up. The last time I started.. seemed louder..
I've gone through the arduous task of removing the engine. I used a hydraulic table and welded up a jig to support the engine. (learned how to Tig weld and that was fun.) Dropped engine, removed trans with fork truck. Removed engine from sub frame. I'm into the engine now and found the tensioner failed on bank 2. (driver side). Have found bits of the plastic guides all over the timing chains. I think the bank 2 chain drive sprocket jumped a link or two because I cannot get both bank 1 & 2 to line up in TDC so I can attached the cam shaft holding brackets. There are marks on the lower timing chain cover at the chain drive sprocket that show the chain made contact with it. Please see attached pictures.
My questions are the following.
Can I just reset the bank two cam shafts to TDC?
The car was not running terribly when I drove it. Could the computer/ECU have made adjustments to keep the car running smoothly?
The spark plugs look pretty fouled, could this be because the ECU made adjustments to air/fuel mixture?
What am I doing wrong? (sure there's plenty of things)
Many thanks for any input or suggestions. Steve in Kansas
Jig to hold engine and sub frame Jig to hold engine and sub frame Jig to hold engine and sub frame Jig to hold engine and sub frame
Failed tensioner and missing plastic guides Locking bar on Bank 1 at TDC Cams not in position on Bank 2 at TDC to install locking bar. Bank 2 chain drive sprocket that appears to have jumped a couple links. More plastic guide bits. Impact marks of timing chain on lower timing chain cover. Grungy spark plugs. All look the same.
Get the IWIS chains, they are cheaper and I believe are actually OEM without the 4 ring surcharge.
check the motor mounts while you have the engine out. Consider a new PCV, water pump, t-stat, and replace the oil in the supercharger while it’s out as well.
might want to change fluids in the transfer case and differentials at this time as well. Get a quart of ZF trans fluid to top off the tranny while it’s out as well. If you took the tranny cooler off you will lose about 1/3 of a quart in the process. Make sure the crank plug seats into the socket correctly as well. If the plug does not seat into the cup on the crank then you are 180 out. Cams rotate 2x for 1 crank rev.
Valpo, Thanks for the input.
What are the signs to failed or failing motor mounts. Mine look ok... but I was not focusing on them. I had read about the PCV, WP and Tstat... the "might as wells" list is growing. I was able to seat the crank plug correctly.
Hi, I'm currently doing timing on my Audi A7 4G year 2011 with 3.0t 220 Kw, code CGWB. I turn the crankshaft and while turning I see 2x holes for locking. Once nothing else fits. The second time everything fits. Cams, balance shaft, marks on the adjusters and cam gears and locking on the cams. Is this also top dead center? I don't know everything, but at top dead center should piston number one always be on top? I have piston number two and piston number four on top.
Is it still correct and can I disassemble and reassemble the timing?
I understand, so if all the locking elements fit, does it matter that piston number one is at the bottom of the cylinder and only pistons two and four are at the top?
I understand, so if all the locking elements fit, does it matter that piston number one is at the bottom of the cylinder and only pistons two and four are at the top?
I have one more question. Does the intake camshaft adjuster fit into the three oil channels on the cam? Is it that the cutout on the adjuster fits into the center of the milled window on the head block?
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3.0Tfsi. Timing Chain / Tensioner failure
