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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 02:37 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mike_L
I'm with Richard. When the light comes on, the scanner gets hooked up, first thing. Just the Actron though. Can't be bothered checking stuff with VCDS all the time.
If I had no idea what the problem was then I would have driven to the dealer as it's very close but i was told what the problem was likely to be and confirmed that the cap was loose so why bother, combined with having a warranty I just really didn't see the point of going any further. If I owned vcds I probably would have hooked it up and checked the codes before calling the dealer but I don't, and don't feel the need to diagnose issues with something that has a warranty, that's what the dealer is for.

I have other cars that are heavily modded and I baby them and make sure everything is as it should be and then some, but for my dd I jut wanted something with a warranty that I don't have to worry about, if a light comes on then the dealer takes care of it. I'm sure this goes against how many people think (and how I used to think before I could afford to buy a car that I didn't have to worry about) but it makes me happy so that's how ill deal with it.

Last edited by Buzztt; Mar 21, 2014 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 07:40 AM
  #22  
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And for sure you are right in pointing out: "CEL (Check Engine Light/lamp) is a misnomer, I think the OBD spec calls it the MIL (Malfunction Indication Light/lamp)." The fact that the warning shows up as a Red or Orange engine causes drivers to think it is "a problem with the Engine". MIL is certainly the correct term, but the commonly used term by nearly ever driver is CEL and the relationship to the Engine through the "warning image" as well as the common term CEL is what causes drivers to get unnecessarily concerned--and sometimes even have their car towed to a garage.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 07:50 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by dicktahoe
the commonly used term by nearly ever driver is CEL and the relationship to the Engine through the "warning image" as well as the common term CEL is what causes drivers to get unnecessarily concerned--and sometimes even have their car towed to a garage.
Believe me, when the POS module (Power Output Stage - although the common usage seemed very appropriate at the time) was out, I opened the hood to check if I even HAD an engine because it was running that badly!
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 07:58 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Buzztt
why bother, combined with having a warranty
It's fine that this is your approach, it's not one I would advise anyone to adopt based on my personal experiences though. Most folks when they call the dealer will get the Service Advisor, not a technician - and the SAs might as well have a script "If it's flashing, bring it in right away, otherwise you probably left the gas cap loose, give it a few clicks and the light will go off in a few days."

Statistically they're likely to be absolutely right about the cause, but I like to a) not have downtime in my vehicles and b) keep them until the wheels fall off, so I'd rather KNOW than be PRETTY SURE - regardless of who's paying the bill.

The post I linked to earlier shows just one of my experiences with being read the above script when the problem was *NOT* a loose gas cap - despite receiving the exact same assurances you did. And yes, I recognize that finding the cap loose supports their data - maybe I'm just an **** engineer (accepted) but I'd *STILL* rather know than assume.

Enjoy the car, and train all operators to turn the cap until they hear a handful of clicks!
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by snagitseven
I now always give the cap three clicks when tightening and it I haven't had that issue since.
Hey am I doing something wrong, or perhaps I have a different gas cap? Mine says to tighten until ONE click, but I've never really heard it 'click' at all. It just hits a pretty firm 'stop' then snaps back about 30 degrees. Should I be pushing it past this 'stop'? I've tried applying a fair bit of force, but don't want to break it.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:09 PM
  #26  
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newmoon, What you are doing is right. You just tighten it against the stop, there is no "click" on the Audi as with some other cars. I usually turn to the stop 2-3 times just to make sure it's secure.
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 06:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dicktahoe
newmoon, What you are doing is right. You just tighten it against the stop, there is no "click" on the Audi as with some other cars. I usually turn to the stop 2-3 times just to make sure it's secure.
That's what I meant. There is a slight detent click on mine as you hit the stop. I do it 3 times from habit.
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Old Mar 23, 2014 | 03:03 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dicktahoe
newmoon, What you are doing is right. You just tighten it against the stop, there is no "click" on the Audi as with some other cars. I usually turn to the stop 2-3 times just to make sure it's secure.
Mine clicks as I tighten pass the stop.
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 04:15 AM
  #29  
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On Saturday morning I went to gas station to fill up. Drove car 15 miles and noticed light was off. Drove Sunday and this morning to work and still no light. I am going to call the dealership and cancel appointment. I looked up the knock sensor on line and it has something to do with gas air mixture. I think that I did not tighten the gas cap tight enough last week and even though I stopped when the light came on and checked it. It still took about 50 - 100 miles to clear. Thanks to all for input
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 05:06 AM
  #30  
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"It still took about 50 - 100 miles to clear." I think it typically takes about 3 "start from cold warm-up cycles to clear the light automatically" from whatever caused it to trigger in the first place--if the trigger does not recur. I would just always wait for a few cycles before going in to have it checked. A lot of these triggers are just some odd one-time event and the light will go off by itself. For sure the engine will not be damaged if you just wait and see.
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