2000 2.7T continues to run hot
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From: Cincinnati, Oh
2000 2.7T continues to run hot
2000 Audi A6 2.7T continues to overheat. Temperature gage which normally is straight up, is now 1.5 additional lines over. Oil temperature (new 0W30 Mobil1 and filter) was also noticed to be in the 225 deg F range (I believe this temperature is usually lower). Electric fans, front and back of radiator are running for a period after engine is stopped. Changed the coolant temp sensor with no improvement (prior to this change the gage was only 1 line from vertical) After running engine, top radiator hose is HOT while bottom radiator hose in only slightly warm (don’t) know if the warmth is from engine itself or coolant inside hose. What is the most reasonable explanation, the dreaded thermostat/water pump failure or can any of this be attributed to clogged radiator or bad viscous fan? Can actually stop fan with a folded business card when engine is hot. (Full TB service @dealer 40K ago)
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Most shops will check the temps for you with their guage..the good ones anyway. I agree, the thermostat is the likely culprit and 40K since doing a good flush seems a bit long especially since the fluid also lubricates the water pump so its good to keep good stuff in there...just like the old days IMO. If it's the T stat..make sure you put the same temp one back in..whatever the book calls for.
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I had an overheating issue on my 2.8, i could not find the source, mechanic found a TB roller/tensioner failed, and was "stickin". much to my dismay beacause my previous mechanic was supposed to reaplace it at TB service...did complete TB service again w ALL related parts replaced. luckily i was able to fix it b4 complete engine failure.
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From: Central New Joisey
2000 Audi A6 2.7T continues to overheat. Temperature gage which normally is straight up, is now 1.5 additional lines over. Oil temperature (new 0W30 Mobil1 and filter) was also noticed to be in the 225 deg F range (I believe this temperature is usually lower). Electric fans, front and back of radiator are running for a period after engine is stopped. Changed the coolant temp sensor with no improvement (prior to this change the gage was only 1 line from vertical) After running engine, top radiator hose is HOT while bottom radiator hose in only slightly warm (don’t) know if the warmth is from engine itself or coolant inside hose. What is the most reasonable explanation, the dreaded thermostat/water pump failure or can any of this be attributed to clogged radiator or bad viscous fan? Can actually stop fan with a folded business card when engine is hot. (Full TB service @dealer 40K ago)
So you are saying that after the coolant temp sensor change the engine runs hotter?
Electric fans are running after stopped because coolant temp is high. They are automatic and will run as long as necessary to cool down the coolant.
The engine driven fan should not be easily stopped when the radiator is warm. The fan should engage when the radiator/coolant temp rises. You can even hear it whir if you rev the engine slightly.
Upper hose hot ant lower hose cold could be a partially opening thermostat or perhaps a partially clogged radiator ( do not overlook this possibility)
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Check your coolant tank for cracks or holes and make sure the cap is sealing it properly with no leaks. If the tank cannot seal completely, pressure will not build and coolant will not circulate. Just had the same exact symptom following completion of my TB service, which included water pump, thermostat, etc, etc... Long story short, I had the coolant tank cap off while trying to bleed the cooling system, which caused the same exact symptoms you outline.
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Well, my '01 2.7T overheated once. It was my fault, really; I was driving at high speed on mountain roads, keeping it in second gear and revving high. Being focused on NOT DYING, my eyes were on the road and not my temp gauge. I didn't notice until I was at a hillcrest, when the coolant started leaking.
The coolant bottle was badly cracked, but had no fluid leaks that I (or the shop) could detect. The secondary water pump, however, was leaking; I had the pump replaced. To be safe, I also had a coolant flush (which, per VW stupidity, had never been done in the 96k mile life of the car) and had the bottle replaced. As an added precaution, I mixed in some water wetter. Ever since, I haven't had any problems. But I haven't really been on any drives that intense since the work was done.
So, my suggestions are as follows:
1.) Check the secondary water pump for leaks.
2.) Ensure the coolant is fresh.
3.) If the bottle is cracked, get it replaced (as suggested above).
The coolant bottle was badly cracked, but had no fluid leaks that I (or the shop) could detect. The secondary water pump, however, was leaking; I had the pump replaced. To be safe, I also had a coolant flush (which, per VW stupidity, had never been done in the 96k mile life of the car) and had the bottle replaced. As an added precaution, I mixed in some water wetter. Ever since, I haven't had any problems. But I haven't really been on any drives that intense since the work was done.
So, my suggestions are as follows:
1.) Check the secondary water pump for leaks.
2.) Ensure the coolant is fresh.
3.) If the bottle is cracked, get it replaced (as suggested above).
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