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4.2 Changeover Valve Part Number Question

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Old May 25, 2010 | 01:28 PM
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Default 4.2 Changeover Valve Part Number Question

I need a replacement linkage for one of the vacuum-actuated changeover valves on my '00 4.2. The part number on the item itself -- 077 907 327A -- doesn't seem to show up in any of the catalogs -- can anybody steer me in the right direction? Thanks.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 03:27 PM
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first, what is it you're trying to replace? more specifically, what has failed? there is a superceded part number for the "repair kit", as the valves are apparently no longer available.

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Old May 25, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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There are billet linkage bits available.

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...enParts.com-**
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Old May 26, 2010 | 05:29 AM
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Thanks for the replies so far! The part I need is the black plastic arm.

Am I correct that if I just need the arm that I'm better off going for the Gruven replacement?

In the process of diagnosing this problem, I discovered that the valve itself is difficult to move back and forth by hand, even if the spring is removed from the mechanism. But when I unbolted the valve from the block and slide it out about an inch and then moved it by hand, it was much easier to manipulate. Thoughts?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 07:40 AM
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My plastic arms are 9 years and 130k miles old and I've successfully removed and reinstalled them at least 5 times. There's no reason to spend $60 on a set of billet ones when the stock ones work just fine.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Redneck Truck
My plastic arms are 9 years and 130k miles old and I've successfully removed and reinstalled them at least 5 times. There's no reason to spend $60 on a set of billet ones when the stock ones work just fine.
Thanks for this thought, RNT. My concerns, however, are a) that one of my plastic arms is already broken (in part because the valve is stickier than it probably should be), and b) that stock arms aren't available as separate parts -- or are they, and if so, what's the part number?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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Mine were stuck completely. It took a pair of pliers to rotate the arms (rods are what you broke), so I pulled them apart, lubricated and cleaned the shaft seals on which the arms pivot, and now they work as they should. For your theory to hold, the engine would have to produce enough vacuum for the actuator to break the rod, which seems unlikely to me.

Take the whole control system apart (don't bother disassembling the intake mani), clean and lubricate everything, put the broken rod back together with epoxy and paperclips, and assemble it carefully. Refer to the writeup link in my sig if anything is unclear.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Redneck Truck
Mine were stuck completely. It took a pair of pliers to rotate the arms (rods are what you broke), so I pulled them apart, lubricated and cleaned the shaft seals on which the arms pivot, and now they work as they should. For your theory to hold, the engine would have to produce enough vacuum for the actuator to break the rod, which seems unlikely to me.

Take the whole control system apart (don't bother disassembling the intake mani), clean and lubricate everything, put the broken rod back together with epoxy and paperclips, and assemble it carefully. Refer to the writeup link in my sig if anything is unclear.
OMFG that write-up is brilliant. I can't wait to give it a shot. The shaft seals are exactly where my problem is and I suspect that them sticking is what caused the rod to break in the first place.

Am I correct that the shaft-end bolt is an Allen head but that the two bolts holding the shaft seal housing parts, etc. are Torx?

How did you get those wide pics -- did you have the radiator out?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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BTW I do think the vacuum pressure broke the rod. Many moons ago, I discovered that the valve was sticking and that the rods were both intact. When I later inspected the rods, the one on the stuck valve had broken into two pieces.
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Old May 27, 2010 | 06:03 AM
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There's a lot to be said for the OEM plastic links as well as repairing/JB Weld the OEM links. IF the link doesn't break, it WILL tear up the vacuum motor. And those vacuum motors aren't available separately, only as part of a $700 (IIRC) repair kit. Sometimes the vacuum motors will turn up on a used manifold but good vacuum motors are generally part of the used manifold (I bought a used manifold and it had one torn vacuum motor...fortunately it was the one that wasn't torn on MY manifold, OTOH maybe the vacuum motors are the same, I dunno, haven't gotten around to checking out the two manifolds that are sitting in my garage!).
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