I'm looking to make/buy a harness that plugs into the Bose amplifier plug of a stock system and provides the 4 RCA's to plug into an aftermarket amp and also has leads for the wires going to the speakers.

I have an A6 (C5...2001) with the Bose amp and sub in the back. I've replaced the headunit and am currently sending line level signals to the stock Bose amp. I want to replace this amp and would rather not hack the wires up if i can get a clean plug-in solution. I've scoured posts and online retailers - all I can find are the Metra adapters for easy headunit replacement, but nothing for easy amplifier replacement. Any tips?

Jason

 

good luck, i just pulled up the diagram and wired it, not too complicated only 5 wires

 

I've had good luck with adapters and harnesses from these guys -
http://stores.ebay.com/Autoware302/A..._sid=226341785
The prices are good, and the parts I've gotten work perfectly.
Jim

 

Thanks All,

I ended up taking apart the stock Bose amp and clipping off the connector inside. I have a Bentley manual, so I soldered my own wires to the right pins for the speaker wires, power +/-, and remote on. I decided to run new RCA line wires from the HU to the amp because:

1. I didn't trust the common ground 5-wire stock wiring
2. I'd have to buy & solder RCA jacks to the rear harness (pain, and probably noisier)
3. I had to run a line level from HU to AMP for sub (stock just uses Rear signal for sub signal)

I replaced all 4 doors speakers (Helix blue 6.5" components up front, and CDT 6.5" components in back). I planned to go with Helix all around, but the vendor stopped carrying then and suggested CDT. I'm happy with the choice. I will be opening up all 4 doors to change the crossover tweeter boost. By default it was +6db and the highs are a bit hot for my tastes, even though all 4 tweeters are silk dome.

I put B-Quiet (like Dynamat) in all 4 doors and along the trunk floor while I had it all apart. It helped some - I think the most gains were in the trunk lining, so if you have a limited supply/budget, just do that. I put 2 layers on front doors and 1 layer elsewhere.

I mounted the 5-channel Soundstream sub class A/B Amp by screwing it to the underside of the trunk top (not the trunk lid, but under the hat rest area by the back window). I chose to use the stock sub for a while to see how it sounds - the bother of making a sub box seemed high if the stock one could provide what i want. So far, im happy with the choice. The design of 2 small drivers can still produce some good lows, but it doesn't punch really hard. some may be disappointed by that, but I simply want the bass to be present, even if not punchy. Somewhere down the line I'll still probably replace it though if I keep the car a long time.

All that's left now is to tune it by ear. I also need to doublecheck the polarity of my door woofers. I suspect that some of them are backwards. Historically, the car seems to drown out the lows the most when driving (V8 engine rumble), So it'll be a trial/error process to adjust levels, then drive around and re-adjust.

Hope this helps someone else!

Jason

 

Does anyone know if the signal coming form the bose amp to the doors is full range. I am trying to figure out is there is some sort of a crossover present spiting the signal between the door tweeter and lower speaker as it appears that they share wiring. I want to make sure that there is not a crossover somewhere between the bose amp and door wiring as I want to replace the bose amp and place component speakers in the doors with an external crossover.

 

There was no crossover - just a single pair of wires going to each door which then split within the door to go to the tweeter and woofer. If I recall correctly, there was a capacitor on the tweeter to act as a HPF. When I upgraded my system, i added a crossover and held it in place within the door using sticky velcro strips.

 

i am try to figure out witch wire are signal coming from radio

 

Try the A7 forum.

This forum is for the C5 version of the A6, produced between 1997 and 2004