Both of my front outer CV joint boots are torn.

I have ordered my cv boot kits (GKN), 1/2" drive 17mm allen socket, 10mm X 140mm XZN bit, and two new upper control arm cinch bolts. I figure I will use my tile nippers to pinch the boots clamps.

Any advice beside PB blaster and heat for the cinch bolt?

 

Loosen the axle bolt with the wheels on the ground. Use a strong breaker bar with a 4' length of pipe. Makes life a LOT easier, both to break the bolts loose and to angle tighten them. Audi says to use new axle bolts...the 90 degree tighten spec after (??) initial torque indicates the bolts are tightened to yield. Continued use stretches the bolt and may lead to failure.

It's possible to pop off the outer CV joints using the axle bolts rather than the special audi tool...but you may have to use a short socket as a spacer between the bolt and the joint..just put a proper-size socket in the axle hole and then thread the bolt in and tighten until the CV joint pops off. To put the cleaned CV joint back on you just whack the axle end with a 2 lb sledge or a dead head hammer.

My best friend for the pinch bolt is an air wrench...never had a problem with a pinch bolt. Put the pinch bolt back in with antiseize on the shaft for the next time it comes out.

Spend the $6-10 for an angle-tightening gauge. Makes it easy and far more accurate to get 90 degrees angle tighten.

 

I skip the pinch bolt and tip the whole suspension out by unbolting the upper plate from the body.

 

I have never been fortunate enough to be able to slide the axle out without taking out the pinch bolt. I've tried and tried - but it just doesn't work for me.

I have seen a few methods - one involves cutting the head off the bold and then using washers and a nut to pull the bolt through the slot. You put the nut on the threads that are left hanging out and tighten the nut, then remove the nut, add washers, tighten the nut, repeat, etc. This supposedly workd pretty well, but I keep it in mind as a backup plan for when something goes wrong with the bolt.

On my cars, I've NEVER had much problem with the pinch bolt though. I helped a friend once, and I spun the head off the pinch bolt with a breaker bar and we had to do everything we could to get that sucker out.

Breaker bar, impact wrench, etc. have made quick work of the pinch bolt in most experiences, however. Sometimes it helps to use a hammer to tap the bolt while you're turning...doesn't take much force, but it can help in some instances.

What I've ALWAYS had trouble removing on my car is the upper control arms after I get the pinch bolt out. For some reason, these have always been a PITA for me. I bought an air hammer and chisel and cut the chisel down so that I can fit it in the hole below and use that and it makes quick work....air tools rule.

 

Thanks for the advice. I usually end up having to do things the hard way. I find a torch handy for seized/rusted/s.o.b. bolts. I have learned the hard way to have replacements for bolts that tend to shear.

I am intrigued by the idea of unbolting the upper plate from the body.

I will report back once the parts arrive and I get a chance to tear into it. I am hoping for a 2-3 hour job, not including clean up. My luck, it will take me all day into the next . . .

 

I missed 4D4's upper plate part - may work. To me it's probably a choose your poison issue

As for the torch - great idea, but not here. You'll have rubber boots right near the bolt that will melt in a heart beat if you hit them...

 

I'll try that the next time I have to do a CV joint. Even with the pinch bolt removal and uca release I have to remove the bolt through the shock at the lower control arm and pry the suspension down to get the CV joint out of the bearing carrier.