Teach me about alternators for the C5 A6...
The third bolt I'm talking about is exactly in line with the front long bolt. The Bentley refers to it as a counter hold and makes it look like you need to hold that (to keep it from spinning) while removing/installing the long top bolt from the front. I didn't have to hold it to remove that bolt BUT, man that thing is in there tight! I'm thinking I'll have to hammer it out if there with a rubber mallet. Guess I'll give that a go tomorrow.
Any tips removing the connectors on the back of it? Are the wires long enough to pull it out a bit before removing them? Or is this another blind thing that you do by feel? Anyone know the bolt size for the one connector that looks like it's screwed down to the center rear of the alternator?
If it really is just part of the bracket and not a separate thing that needs loosened or removed, I'll start using some force with the alternator...
The third bolt I'm talking about is exactly in line with the front long bolt. The Bentley refers to it as a counter hold and makes it look like you need to hold that (to keep it from spinning) while removing/installing the long top bolt from the front. I didn't have to hold it to remove that bolt BUT, man that thing is in there tight! I'm thinking I'll have to hammer it out if there with a rubber mallet. Guess I'll give that a go tomorrow.
Any tips removing the connectors on the back of it? Are the wires long enough to pull it out a bit before removing them? Or is this another blind thing that you do by feel? Anyone know the bolt size for the one connector that looks like it's screwed down to the center rear of the alternator?
The second bolt is just a bolt, threads into the alternator IIRC.
As for getting it out to get to the electrical connections..I can only advise you to disconnect the battery before messing around with high amperage connections that could touch as the alt comes out/down. On my 4.2 the wires WERE long enough to remove the alternator enough to get to them…I disconnected the light gauge wires first and the heavy red wire last.
The second bolt is just a bolt, threads into the alternator IIRC.
As for getting it out to get to the electrical connections..I can only advise you to disconnect the battery before messing around with high amperage connections that could touch as the alt comes out/down. On my 4.2 the wires WERE long enough to remove the alternator enough to get to them…I disconnected the light gauge wires first and the heavy red wire last.
I think it's 8mm hex but I can't get a hex key into it or a hex socket into it because there isn't enough clearance. It's 20mm to fit something over it, which I can get a 20mm socket over it but can't connect the socket to anything because no clearance. And I've only got a spanner up to 18mm so that's why I was going to try to go by an offset 20mm one...
Though like I said, didn't have to hold it at all to remove the bolt and the thing doesn't move a bit when I fuss with the alternator and move it a little...
There's enough slack to remove the connections once you're able to get the alternator angled better to have a go at them. The electrical connector is like many of the other connectors(headlights, coolant temp sensor etc) where you have to pull up the tab on it, and then pull the connector off.
Of course make sure the battery is disconnect first..
I think it's 8mm hex but I can't get a hex key into it or a hex socket into it because there isn't enough clearance. It's 20mm to fit something over it, which I can get a 20mm socket over it but can't connect the socket to anything because no clearance. And I've only got a spanner up to 18mm so that's why I was going to try to go by an offset 20mm one...
Though like I said, didn't have to hold it at all to remove the bolt and the thing doesn't move a bit when I fuss with the alternator and move it a little...
I didn't have anything securing mines other than the two bolts and electrical connections secured to it.
Try rocking it side to side, push it up, then pull it down to kinda walk it off of the mount.
On the 4.2 all I had to do was pull down on the bottom run of the serp belt until the tensioner moved up enough to put an allen wrench into the hole and lock the tensioner up so I could move the serp belt out of the way. YMMV.
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Also, it totally wiggled free really easy when I first touched it today... What?!? Could have been done last night if it had acted like that then! Lol disconnected leads from the back and it actually came out from under the car pretty easy with the turbo pipe removed. The best part... The old one was the Bosch unit!!! I had blindly ordered the Bosch replacement earlier and took a gamble I would return it for the Valeo one if that's what my car had. Finally got lucky!
Now let's hope it's smooth getting the new one in and everything else put back together.
Btw, does anyone know if places like AutoZone will buy the old unit as a core? Or should I just toss it?






