A6 / S6 (C5 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C5 Audi A6 and S6 produced from 1998-2004

Teach me about alternators for the C5 A6...

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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 01:20 AM
  #21  
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I actually think I'll have enough room to being it out from under the car, at least that's what the Bentley seems to be showing.

The third bolt I'm talking about is exactly in line with the front long bolt. The Bentley refers to it as a counter hold and makes it look like you need to hold that (to keep it from spinning) while removing/installing the long top bolt from the front. I didn't have to hold it to remove that bolt BUT, man that thing is in there tight! I'm thinking I'll have to hammer it out if there with a rubber mallet. Guess I'll give that a go tomorrow.

Any tips removing the connectors on the back of it? Are the wires long enough to pull it out a bit before removing them? Or is this another blind thing that you do by feel? Anyone know the bolt size for the one connector that looks like it's screwed down to the center rear of the alternator?
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 01:40 AM
  #22  
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First image is a wide shot with my bolt highlighted, second image is a closer shot of the bolt and why to me at least it looks like it's securing the alternator to the mounting bracket or whatever. The third is what the Bentley says....

If it really is just part of the bracket and not a separate thing that needs loosened or removed, I'll start using some force with the alternator...
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 10:06 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by acarney
I actually think I'll have enough room to being it out from under the car, at least that's what the Bentley seems to be showing.

The third bolt I'm talking about is exactly in line with the front long bolt. The Bentley refers to it as a counter hold and makes it look like you need to hold that (to keep it from spinning) while removing/installing the long top bolt from the front. I didn't have to hold it to remove that bolt BUT, man that thing is in there tight! I'm thinking I'll have to hammer it out if there with a rubber mallet. Guess I'll give that a go tomorrow.

Any tips removing the connectors on the back of it? Are the wires long enough to pull it out a bit before removing them? Or is this another blind thing that you do by feel? Anyone know the bolt size for the one connector that looks like it's screwed down to the center rear of the alternator?
There are only two bolts. One is the long one…counterhold means to hold the nut with a wrench and turn the bolt…looks like the bolt is a socket heat, probably about 10mm?

The second bolt is just a bolt, threads into the alternator IIRC.

As for getting it out to get to the electrical connections..I can only advise you to disconnect the battery before messing around with high amperage connections that could touch as the alt comes out/down. On my 4.2 the wires WERE long enough to remove the alternator enough to get to them…I disconnected the light gauge wires first and the heavy red wire last.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 12:08 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SloopJohnB@mac.com
There are only two bolts. One is the long one…counterhold means to hold the nut with a wrench and turn the bolt…looks like the bolt is a socket heat, probably about 10mm?

The second bolt is just a bolt, threads into the alternator IIRC.

As for getting it out to get to the electrical connections..I can only advise you to disconnect the battery before messing around with high amperage connections that could touch as the alt comes out/down. On my 4.2 the wires WERE long enough to remove the alternator enough to get to them…I disconnected the light gauge wires first and the heavy red wire last.
Good call on the battery disconnect, I pulled the black wire from it before I even got the car on jack stands, should I remove the other too?

I think it's 8mm hex but I can't get a hex key into it or a hex socket into it because there isn't enough clearance. It's 20mm to fit something over it, which I can get a 20mm socket over it but can't connect the socket to anything because no clearance. And I've only got a spanner up to 18mm so that's why I was going to try to go by an offset 20mm one...

Though like I said, didn't have to hold it at all to remove the bolt and the thing doesn't move a bit when I fuss with the alternator and move it a little...
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 12:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by acarney
Any tips removing the connectors on the back of it? Are the wires long enough to pull it out a bit before removing them? Or is this another blind thing that you do by feel? Anyone know the bolt size for the one connector that looks like it's screwed down to the center rear of the alternator?
I think the center bolt is 13mm? It's been a little while.. can't remember for sure.

There's enough slack to remove the connections once you're able to get the alternator angled better to have a go at them. The electrical connector is like many of the other connectors(headlights, coolant temp sensor etc) where you have to pull up the tab on it, and then pull the connector off.

Of course make sure the battery is disconnect first..
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 12:23 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by acarney
Good call on the battery disconnect, I pulled the black wire from it before I even got the car on jack stands, should I remove the other too?

I think it's 8mm hex but I can't get a hex key into it or a hex socket into it because there isn't enough clearance. It's 20mm to fit something over it, which I can get a 20mm socket over it but can't connect the socket to anything because no clearance. And I've only got a spanner up to 18mm so that's why I was going to try to go by an offset 20mm one...

Though like I said, didn't have to hold it at all to remove the bolt and the thing doesn't move a bit when I fuss with the alternator and move it a little...
I had both of the battery terminals disconnected because I'm paranoid like that.

I didn't have anything securing mines other than the two bolts and electrical connections secured to it.

Try rocking it side to side, push it up, then pull it down to kinda walk it off of the mount.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #27  
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I forgot..you have to release the serp belt from the alternator. Sounds obvious, but you pic looked like the belt was still on there.
On the 4.2 all I had to do was pull down on the bottom run of the serp belt until the tensioner moved up enough to put an allen wrench into the hole and lock the tensioner up so I could move the serp belt out of the way. YMMV.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 02:12 PM
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Yeah, both disconnected, I can see that. Normally I just unhook the positive cable from the battery and tape it up with electrical tape and fold it out of the way away from the battery.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 03:11 PM
  #29  
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Thanks guys!! I went ahead and disconnected the positive so both were removed from the battery... I suddenly got super paranoid after reading the post here, lol.

Also, it totally wiggled free really easy when I first touched it today... What?!? Could have been done last night if it had acted like that then! Lol disconnected leads from the back and it actually came out from under the car pretty easy with the turbo pipe removed. The best part... The old one was the Bosch unit!!! I had blindly ordered the Bosch replacement earlier and took a gamble I would return it for the Valeo one if that's what my car had. Finally got lucky!

Now let's hope it's smooth getting the new one in and everything else put back together.

Btw, does anyone know if places like AutoZone will buy the old unit as a core? Or should I just toss it?
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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There should have been a core charge on the alternator you bought. Check your receipt.
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