A6 / S6 (C6 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the C6 Audi A6 produced from 2004-present and Audi S6 produced from 2007 - 2011

Just changed my front brakes

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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:50 PM
  #11  
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I had a quote to get my front brakes done for $500 from my usual indy shop. Got referred to another place that did it for $300 and they have been perfect since (probably been nearly 6 months now). No squeaking at all.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 05:23 AM
  #12  
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was the 300 including rotors or just brake pad replacement?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by r1racer
Yeah my buddy's Allroad was impossible to get off. We used a breaker bar and split two sockets...I hope mine aren't torqued properly as I will be doing a brake job here shortly.
Is your area *winter salt area...that will almost weld nuts to bolts. Did you turn or replace the rotors?
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 07:59 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 05whtaudia6
was the 300 including rotors or just brake pad replacement?
rotors, pads and sensors. The labour cost was $30-40. The cost for the parts alone was around $240. Add tax and I was a hair over $300. The owner has these young guys working for him so probably doesn't pay them too much and his shop is an older building so his rent is probably low. There were customers coming in and out during the hour I waited for my brakes so it seemed like he was pretty busy.
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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 12:54 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 05whtaudia6
I am sure someone can post a DIY that shows the easiest route to take for those rotors. I plan on doing my soon, i will try to put something together. If i remember right; you dont need to remove the caliper brackets just swing them out of the way.
If you can figure out how to get the rotors off WITHOUT loosening the bolts on the caliper brackets, I'd love to hear about it for next time.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #16  
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Default Electric Impact gun took care of my bolts

All,
I had the same experience with the caliper bracket bolts (which must be taken off to get the rotor off, the rotor can not 'swing' out of the way!)

Went to pepboys and bought an electric impact gun (fairly new product I think) and it only has 220 ft lbs of torque, but after letting that thing hammer on the bolts for 2 minutes each, all of them spun right off.

I (like most DIY people I think) don't have a 50 gallon air compressor that can utilized a 300-500 ft lb air impact gun. Electric has been a great alternative.

Put the bolts back on with the gun, so they were nice and snug again. And now when I rotate tires/wheels, the electric gun cuts the job time in-half!
IB
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Old May 12, 2010 | 09:05 PM
  #17  
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The two things that all have experienced here are:

1. Probably not working on a lift. Lying on your back under the car just isn't going to give enough leverage to get it done. Trying to even find the heads of the bolts is a chore without getting an eye on them.

2. As the last poster added, he used a 220lb impact, and got it done.

We do these all the time and obviously we do it on a lift. A 650lb impact with a 6" extension and impact socket make quick work of the job. Front rotors and pads are an hour job on pretty much any model.

For the guy who paid $300, you got a great deal. Pretty much at cost!
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Old May 13, 2010 | 06:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by zzz4
I have the exact opposite approach. I would rather pay someone change the rotors - with an oil extractor pump and cartridge filter on the engine, it's the easiest maintenance item on an Audi.
What extractor pump do you use..just curious since I'd read somewhere they never get all the old oil out but if your adding 6.9qts (manual ref) with the new cartridge then it's doing the job.
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Old May 14, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mystrodo
Is your area *winter salt area...that will almost weld nuts to bolts. Did you turn or replace the rotors?
In MD so yes...he finally got it onto a lift and had more leverage to use the breaker bar.
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