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Engine stops at the stoplight or when decelerating to a stop

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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 10:44 AM
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Default Engine stops at the stoplight or when decelerating to a stop

Hi all,

I am having some issues recently with my 1998 Audi A8 4.2.

About two weeks ago it didn't started right away. I cranked the engine few times and finally it started.
Then during the next days the issue became more frequent. Usually in the morning it started ok but after 4 hours staying in the outside parking when I wanted to start the car sometimes I had to do over twenty or thirty attempts. The engines was cranked (spinning) but it just didn't started.

About two months ago I changed the air filter, spark plugs, engine oil (I checked the level and it is ok). Once the car starts it is working well (with some exceptions )

Having these issues I was thinking it may be the fuel pump or filter. I changed in fuel filter during the weekend and for two days the card started every time: about five to six times a day.

Then I started to have the same issues: I make it start about one in three times I have to crank the engine six seven times to make it start.

And ... as a bonus ... yesterday and today it stopped about two times while bringing the car close to a stoplight OR when I was at the stoplight with my foot on the break pedal!
Before the engine stopped the car was at 600 RPM, if I put it to neutral it will stay at 800 RPM, the engine runs very smooth but then suddenly it stops!

I will try to remove and check the fuel filter again this weekend for any sediments which may have accumulated. When I changed it one week before from the pipe coming from the fuel tank drained out some gas with leads of rust.

Is it possible to be an issue with the fuel pump being stuck with sediments? Any other ideas?

Thank you.
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Do you have a check engine light on?

Have you checked for codes? ..free scan at Autozone or Advance.

Fuel filters are almost never the problem, unless you've filled the tank with dirt at least once
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Old Aug 18, 2012 | 09:19 PM
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almost sounds like a bad crank sensor or wiring to it.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 09:29 AM
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Hi all,

Thanks for the answers. I will look at the crank sensor and check it and see what I can figure out.

By the way, Saturday I removed the fuel filter and it was ok. I put it back, the car started and I drove it in the night and it was ok (it started both times and it didn't stopped).

But this morning it stopped again suddenly at a stop light. It started by after six or seven tries.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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I forgot about the check engine light: it is off. I have a reader at home, I will connect it. Also I will check it at autozone.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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I checked with the reader at Autozone: I get P0321 code, I guess I have to replace the crankshaft position sensor. Is it an easy DIY job? I couldn't find instructions / pictures on this website... Thanks.
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by presurageorge
I checked with the reader at Autozone: I get P0321 code, I guess I have to replace the crankshaft position sensor. Is it an easy DIY job? I couldn't find instructions / pictures on this website... Thanks.
The engine speed sensor (crank pos sensor) is mounted on the driver's side bell housing of the trans. It reads directly off the starter cog wheel (flex plate attached to Torque convertor). It's held on with one allen bolt and has a thick coax type wire coming off it.

I've never changed one...fairly easy to get to. As I understand it, routing the wire properly to where it plugs to harness under the hood is the trickiest part...just trace the wire to the plug when you spot the sensor.

You should have gotten a check engine light. On your model, that light is a replaceable bulb in the cluster and they do burn out some times (LED in 2000 up D2's). It should always come on when you turn on the ignition, before starting engine...if not, the bulb's out.

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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the images silverd2,

I tried to unplug the switch today but I was unsuccessful. I think I will go to an auto shop because I cannot figure it out.

And the check engine light is on when I put the key into ignition mode. Then when I start the engine the Check Engine light turns off. So the LED is ok, that's why I didn't scanned the computer for codes (until yesterday).

I ordered the part online, I hope it will come soon and find a place to change it.

Thanks for the tips.
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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I called few shops Friday and most of them do not want to use your parts. I found one and it is asking for $200 to change it (said there are needed two hours of work). Is this true? Thanks.
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by presurageorge
I called few shops Friday and most of them do not want to use your parts. I found one and it is asking for $200 to change it (said there are needed two hours of work). Is this true? Thanks.
I've heard that a lot. They really want the profit they'd make on buying the part well under what they'd charge you...but they hide behind this "liability" crap. If the part was good, only their installation was a failure.
Even Audi dealers will install "customer parts"...I've taken my own parts to them a lot in the past...anything from transmissions to shocks. By policy, they have to guarantee their work but not the part for defects. If the part is good, it's good and they get their labor fee.

I think 2 hours for something which is accessible with a wheel off or on a lift (no other disassembly needed), held on by a single bolt and plugged to harness at the firewall, is ridiculous. That does NOT sound right.

I'm glad I don't have to find a mechanic...I wouldn't know where to look....sorry.
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