Some help please...
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AudiWorld Super User
Joined: Jun 2004
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Some help please...
How is the outer CV joint replacement difficulty level, time, and tools? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I also was wondering if someone could help diagnose suspension slop. I replaced the lower curved control arms on both fronts. I'm getting some steering slop with clicking noise when I turn. I am pretty certain that the cv has finally gone, but I'm getting a very loud metallic scratchy sound in waves when driving straight. It seems as if the wheel is wagging back and forth while driving.
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CV
17mm allen socket. I made one with an allen wrench, that I cut, and then mated the straight section to a 17mm socket. For the hub bolt.
10mm triple-square bit. For the bolts at the inner joint. Think a double allen bit. 12 points. I found a set with 6-8-10-12mm for about $12 or $15.
5' piece of 1" schedule 40 steel pipe, to use as a cheater bar on your 1/2" breaker bar. I actually have a 30" section, screwed to a coupling, screwed to an 18" section. Makes more flexibility in options.
1/2" torque wrench.
A big vice is nice. So is a decent dead-blow plastic hammer.
The linked procedure is pretty good. My sizes are correct for an A8, but the A4/S4/A6/S6/A8/S8 are all pretty much the same, from a general procedure standpoint.
Instead of hammering off the joint, use the old bolt, and use it to force the joint off of the half-shaft. It's not long enough to force it the whole way, so you'll need a small deep-well socket or a piece of 3/8" or so diameter brass rod to put in the hole, to get the thing off the whole way.
Torque for us is 140ft-lbs, plus another 180 degrees, when you tighten the new hub bolt.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml">CV Joint/Boot Repair</a></li></ul>
10mm triple-square bit. For the bolts at the inner joint. Think a double allen bit. 12 points. I found a set with 6-8-10-12mm for about $12 or $15.
5' piece of 1" schedule 40 steel pipe, to use as a cheater bar on your 1/2" breaker bar. I actually have a 30" section, screwed to a coupling, screwed to an 18" section. Makes more flexibility in options.
1/2" torque wrench.
A big vice is nice. So is a decent dead-blow plastic hammer.
The linked procedure is pretty good. My sizes are correct for an A8, but the A4/S4/A6/S6/A8/S8 are all pretty much the same, from a general procedure standpoint.
Instead of hammering off the joint, use the old bolt, and use it to force the joint off of the half-shaft. It's not long enough to force it the whole way, so you'll need a small deep-well socket or a piece of 3/8" or so diameter brass rod to put in the hole, to get the thing off the whole way.
Torque for us is 140ft-lbs, plus another 180 degrees, when you tighten the new hub bolt.<ul><li><a href="https://www.audiworld.com/tech/misc27.shtml">CV Joint/Boot Repair</a></li></ul>
New Member
Joined: Aug 2003
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It's kind of a pain.
Some people say to take off the upper control arms and some say the lower straight control arm. I did the lower straight because I couldn't get the uppers off. That should give you the clearance you need after some work.
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