A8 / S8 (D2 Platform) Discussion Discussion forum for the D2 Audi A8 and S8 produced from 1994-2002

TOZO, Help!

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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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Default TOZO, Help!

Where did you get the o-ring replacements for the solenoids in the valve body? Are these available at the dealer? Since I am cracking it open tonight, I might as well change them too. Thanks!
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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 02:03 PM
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Default My friend has a transmission shop. I found them in a Toyota rebuild kit.

The solenoids don't have any seals. The pressure regulator valves have one. I've used a 2.4mm thick o-ring. I don't think that the o-ring causing limp mode. Do you have any fault codes?
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<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/80919/dscn1799.jpg">
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 07:42 AM
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Default Re: My friend has a transmission shop. I found them in a Toyota rebuild kit.

Yeah I got the error codes stating the gear ratio was incorrect. Can't remember the number off the top of my head. I dropped the oil last night and and will continue tonight. Does the valve body come off easily or are there any special things I should look for when taking it off?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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Default If the car goes into limp mode right after you cleared the codes that is not good.

The valve body comes off easy, but unfortunately your problem is not in the valve body. If your car goes into limp mode in all forward gears, clutch A housing ( 1-2-3-4 gears ) is cracked or it has a blown seal. Do you have a problem with reverse?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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Default Re: If the car goes into limp mode right after you cleared the codes that is not good.

No problems at all with reverse! Maybe I should just drive backwards! :-)
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 07:43 PM
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Default I had a same problem last year.

I had a cracked valve body -lost oil pressure to clutch - engine revved up - incorrect gear ratio -tranny vent into limp home mode while it was still at high rpm - BANG - limp mode means, full pressure on clutch A for 4th gear-clutch A housing cracked open. But yours could be different.
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Old Jun 3, 2005 | 05:06 PM
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Default Re: I had a same problem last year.

So did you just change out the valve body? I now have my pan off as of tonight. I have more questions about the removal of the valve body. As you know there are at least a couple of dozen torx screws in the bottom of the valve body, which do I remove to take the body off? Do all of the screws come out, if not which ones? I don't want to do anything until I know for sure. Also, is there a gasket between the valve body and the mount or what seals it in place?
Thanks for your insight!
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Old Jun 3, 2005 | 05:55 PM
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Default There is no gasket between the V B and the tranny. All the bolts with the big head has to come out.

Leave one on the center for the last, so it will hold it up. It is heavy, so be ready to hold it. There is a speed sensor on the top of the VB. Just pull the two tabs out and disconnect the sensor.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 05:25 AM
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Default Was it obvious?

You say you had a cracked valve body, were the sign of this obvious? Also, you didn't mention if you replaced the body or did you just replace the whole tranny? What should I look for specifically? I am taking the valve body off this morning.
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Old Jun 4, 2005 | 10:05 AM
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Default

YGM.
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