Yeah so much for my post traumatic disorder with this car(for wanting to sell it)

One day i'm driving the car everything is fine today i stopped at a light and i felt something click, or knock. When the light turned green i pressed the accelerator and it felt as if it was in limp mode. the next minute i was testing it at a gas station. By the time i got home limp mode turned on. I turned off the car turned it back on and it was gone.

Results:

Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01L-927-156.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4D0 927 156 CP
Component and/or Version: AG5 01L 4.2l5V USA 1414
Software Coding: 00032
Work Shop Code: WSC 02314
VCID: 79E72515495F
1 Fault Found:

17115 - Gear 1: Incorrect Ratio
P0731 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent


When i slowly press on the accelerator it drives without even noticing anything is wrong. But when i press harder the tranny makes a clicking sound. also it got harder to shift from P to R(more strain)... i just changed the tranny at the end of last year... please don't tell me i need a rebuild!
Advice???

 

If your fluid level is correct and the 730-731-732 comes back then you will need a rebuild.

 

i just check my fluid, i changed it about 4-5 months ago, and for some reason the fluid is really dirty... You think that might be the case?

 

When you check the fluid, how do you do it?

 

well for level(or having the right amount)i have the plug (the bigger screw off) and top off the oil until it starts spilling out over the "plug" i look at the atf temp with ross-tech when it reaches between 100-110F i close the plug

this time the level is good just that the oil was really dirty i opened the drain and drained less than half a quart. I will do my atf change tomorrow and hope for the best...

any recommendations for me while i take off the pan?

 

You do this with the engine running right?

 

If you were only able to drain out a half quart, this transmission was seriously low on fluid. You need to contact who ever rebuilt it, they did not fill it correctly!!!! I'll be shocked if this transmission is not permanently damaged.

Here is how to check the ATF fluid level in the A8 transmission.

If it's low, it takes two people to add fluid.

1. The engine/transmission should be cooled off overnight
2. The car must be level
3. The engine must be running before the fill plug is removed
4. Remove fill plug, if slightly over flowing, level is correct, if not go to # 7.
5. Re-install fill plug, BEFORE YOU SHUT OFF ENGINE.
6. Done
7. Start filling until overflowing.
8. With the brakes on, go through all the gears for about 10-15 seconds each, skip reverse.
9. Keep filling so it has a slight overflow at all times.
10. Re-install fill plug, BEFORE YOU SHUT OFF ENGINE.

Since you have a vag-com, monitor ATF fluid temperature on group number 4, under measuring blocks, transmission module. The temperature of the ATF fluid during fill procedure should be 30-45 C. If you do not have vag-com, ensure the car was cooled overnight. When the engine has operated for about 15 minutes, it will reach somewhere around 40-45 C.

In my opinion, under filling the transmission when replacing the filter or after a rebuild is a major cause of premature failure. This happens when "techs" do not follow the correct filling procedure. They sometimes fill/check the level with engine off, or forgetting to go through all the gears while filling.

http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...servicing.html

 

Although my beast had a different symptom, I did have an incorrect gear ratio code thrown. As per the following link on audipages.com, I followed the procedure for replacing the tranny filter and fluid: http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...servicing.html. It cured most of my problems; now I just need to identify the source of the torque converter lock-up (hunting) that seems to occur around 1400-1800 rpm after the car warms-up.

When it comes time to fill the tranny, I have found that a suction gun (looks like a grease gun but it isn't a grease gun) was faster than using the marine pump that others have used.

In hindsight, I wish I would have pulled/cleaned/checked/inspected the individual solenoids located along the back of the valve body, as long as I had the pan off.

If it helps anyone, I have found a technicians diagnostic guide for our 5hp24a and have attached it. The one thing it's lacking is a diagnostic tree that would help with isolating specific problems. At least it gives information, such as the resistance values for each solenoid, that could help in checking the health of individual components.

Lastly, I don't know where everyone has been ordering parts from, but, I've found autohausaz.com to be a reasonably priced place to find parts. The following link is for a Meyle filter kit priced below $29: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...20Filter%20Kit. I just ordered a replacement Bosh OEM fuel pressure regulator from them for about $79 (Dealer wanted $192 and Autozone wanted $179). If someone knows of another good place to buy reasonably priced parts, please share. I'm all for saving a little green. . .

 

when i top it off than i turn on the car, put it into R then D with 30 second intervals (with the plug open, i add more atf if needed)and than i would close the plug...
am i doing something wrong??

 

That's haw you do it. I just don't understand why only 1/2qt came out.