ISV???
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ISV???
looks like I have this ISV problem, but can it affect the engine when you get going a bit?Here is what happens... Car starts off ok (93 2.0E)after 2/3 miles starts missing and trying to cut out. If I then stop and pull the plug on the ISV,the engine smooths out and it runs ok again.
Any help out there??
Oh and if I turn it off it needs re-connecting to start!!
Any help out there??
Oh and if I turn it off it needs re-connecting to start!!
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Re: 2.0E? 4 cylinder? Can you provide a picture or diagram of your engines ISV?
Yes I will take a pic of my motor and try to post it here (not sure how?)anyway since I posted my problem, I spent new years day stripping things apart under the bonnet and eventually got the ISV off. I gave it a clean out, even though it didnt look dirty and it has improved a lot!!!
I think I will try and get a new ISV as this has probably done 120K
I think I will try and get a new ISV as this has probably done 120K
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From: Warwickshire
Could be related to malfunction of the throttle valve switch....
this tells the engine management cpu that the throttle is open so stops/starts the idle stabilisation and over-run fuel cut-off functions.
Check that this microswitch opens as soon as the trottle flap starts to open. It helps to lubricate the throttle flap spindle as well with something like WD40.
You are also on the right track by just giving the valve a good clean but clean the throttle flap and the air-bleed hole as well. Count how many turns to screw the adjuster in, then take it out and spray WD40 directly down the hole, then blow dwon it with a tube or air-line then put it back to the same position.
Check that this microswitch opens as soon as the trottle flap starts to open. It helps to lubricate the throttle flap spindle as well with something like WD40.
You are also on the right track by just giving the valve a good clean but clean the throttle flap and the air-bleed hole as well. Count how many turns to screw the adjuster in, then take it out and spray WD40 directly down the hole, then blow dwon it with a tube or air-line then put it back to the same position.
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Re: 2.0E? 4 cylinder? Can you provide a picture or diagram of your engines ISV?
hi again, got new plugs, still the same,have tried a can of electric switch cleaner, no change, but have another clue!
I have found a way to drive through this missing and cutting out that, so far has worked. If when it occurs, I straight away(within a few seconds) back off the gas and let it overun for say 500 yards, the engine pulls itself together and runs right again!!! If I try to make it keep going, it gets worse and worse until the engine is barely able to pull the car along. Does this point towards anything?
Thanks
I have found a way to drive through this missing and cutting out that, so far has worked. If when it occurs, I straight away(within a few seconds) back off the gas and let it overun for say 500 yards, the engine pulls itself together and runs right again!!! If I try to make it keep going, it gets worse and worse until the engine is barely able to pull the car along. Does this point towards anything?
Thanks
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Re: 2.0E? 4 cylinder? Can you provide a picture or diagram of your engines ISV?
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/64415/dscf0012.jpg"></center><p><ul><li><a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/64415/dscf0012.jpg">http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/64415/dscf0012.jpg</a</li></ul>
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From: Warwickshire
fuel pump or fuel pump relay is my guess ....
Is it a 8 valve with a conventional distributor or does it have dizzy-less with two coils?
If it has a dizzy, then I would check the condition of the cap and the rotor arm, maybe renew both just as a matter of course.
I could be the ignition coil or the balast resistor which I think it may have. This is usually in the for of ont of the feed wires being of higher resistance than standard wire.
It is such a strange problem it is difficult to diagnose without driving the car.
If it has a dizzy, then I would check the condition of the cap and the rotor arm, maybe renew both just as a matter of course.
I could be the ignition coil or the balast resistor which I think it may have. This is usually in the for of ont of the feed wires being of higher resistance than standard wire.
It is such a strange problem it is difficult to diagnose without driving the car.
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Re: fuel pump or fuel pump relay is my guess ....
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/64415/2.jpg"></center><p>Yes I think i do have the ignition coil and resistor and the bit i believe to be the resistor gets really really hot! is this right?<ul><li><a href="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/64415/2.jpg">http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/64415/2.jpg</a</li></ul>
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Thread Starter
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Re: 2.0E? 4 cylinder? Can you provide a picture or diagram of your engines ISV?
Yeah, the problem with the help that you are very kindly giving me, is that I dont know where all these sensors/switches etc are without a manual, which as you know i cant get!
I have many questions about parts of the engine, ie what is what, but without the book, cant tell.
There is something else I have noticed which doesnt seem right, the HT lead from the centre of the cap goes about 10 inches back to an electronic device on the bulkhead. This has a couple of thin wires(1 blue, 1 black) which go about 2 inches left to a small square plastic block. This has an electrical connector similar to lots of others under the bonnet. What seems wrong here is that this plastic block gets extremely hot, too hot to touch for more than a micro second!! Do you think this is as it should be?
I have many questions about parts of the engine, ie what is what, but without the book, cant tell.
There is something else I have noticed which doesnt seem right, the HT lead from the centre of the cap goes about 10 inches back to an electronic device on the bulkhead. This has a couple of thin wires(1 blue, 1 black) which go about 2 inches left to a small square plastic block. This has an electrical connector similar to lots of others under the bonnet. What seems wrong here is that this plastic block gets extremely hot, too hot to touch for more than a micro second!! Do you think this is as it should be?
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From: Warwickshire
Yes, it will get hot because that is the way it drops the voltage to the coil....
the coil is designed to operate at about 9.5 volts or so, when you are cranking the engine over, it gets full battery voltage bypassing the ballast resistor so giving a better spark while the battery is under the load of the starter motor. Then as you release the ignition switch the supply to the coil transfers back to the ballast resistor so the coil gets its correct voltage again and does not burn out.
I would check the dizzy cap and rotor arm, replace if they look at all questionable.
Have you fitted new plugs recently?
I would check the dizzy cap and rotor arm, replace if they look at all questionable.
Have you fitted new plugs recently?