5KCSTQ Code 2322 -- air temperature sensor
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5KCSTQ Code 2322 -- air temperature sensor
My 88 5000CSTQ is blinking a 2322 error code.
I gather that the MC-1 engine has at least one air temperature sensor, at the intercooler outlet. Are there more than one? Does anyone have specifications of what resistance vs temperature should look like? Is its part number 035 905 379 C?
Any BTDT regarding this sensor?
TIA
I gather that the MC-1 engine has at least one air temperature sensor, at the intercooler outlet. Are there more than one? Does anyone have specifications of what resistance vs temperature should look like? Is its part number 035 905 379 C?
Any BTDT regarding this sensor?
TIA
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Re: 5KCSTQ Code 2322 -- air temperature sensor
<center><img src="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/TROUBLE_SHOOTING/ecupic/airtemp.jpg"></center><p>As far as i know there is just the one sensor.
apparently the element is spot-welded, and the welds tend to crack.<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/TROUBLE_SHOOTING/10vcoolt.html">info @ sjmautotechnik</a></li></ul>
apparently the element is spot-welded, and the welds tend to crack.<ul><li><a href="http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/TROUBLE_SHOOTING/10vcoolt.html">info @ sjmautotechnik</a></li></ul>
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From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Voila! Thanks Steve and Mark.
I dicovered that within the rubber boot over top the intake air sensor both leads to the ECU had broken. I scratched my head for a while to find a good way to provide a low resistance connection from sensor to ECU, which could be broken apart occasionally while for example removing the intercooler.
The sensor's thermistor seemed fine: it measured 507 Ohms at 80 degrees F.
I eventually bought a pack o' 100(!) 0.110 inch wide female spade connectors with crimp barrels and insulation. I toyed with using crimps, but ended up removing the insulation and both crimping the barrels and soldering. Then pulled 1/4 inch shrink tubing over each of the two female spade connectors.
On the body of the sensor I had to carefully remove the broken crimped pieces from the wires, and buff the oxidized contact surfces of the blade with fine sandpaper, followed by Noalox anti-oxidant goop.
Reassembled.
The proof of the pudding is that the engine runs better, pulls hard, and throws no fault codes! Finally!
Here's the Noalox goop:<ul><li><a href="http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Noalox?OpenDocument">http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Noalox?OpenDocument</a</li></ul>
The sensor's thermistor seemed fine: it measured 507 Ohms at 80 degrees F.
I eventually bought a pack o' 100(!) 0.110 inch wide female spade connectors with crimp barrels and insulation. I toyed with using crimps, but ended up removing the insulation and both crimping the barrels and soldering. Then pulled 1/4 inch shrink tubing over each of the two female spade connectors.
On the body of the sensor I had to carefully remove the broken crimped pieces from the wires, and buff the oxidized contact surfces of the blade with fine sandpaper, followed by Noalox anti-oxidant goop.
Reassembled.
The proof of the pudding is that the engine runs better, pulls hard, and throws no fault codes! Finally!
Here's the Noalox goop:<ul><li><a href="http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Noalox?OpenDocument">http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Noalox?OpenDocument</a</li></ul>
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